Ashland Oil, does, in fact, blend both brands. Valvoline is their own label. Unknown, is the additive packs added to each.

 

added that other half a quart! up to 55 psi!! for now!

haha still terrible that not even at the 3,000 change marker, I have already had to add a quart

 

Pedro Dog you are correct on your statement that conventional and synthetic oils can be safely mixed. For the Valvoline Expert. Have you ever heard of Valvoline DuraBlend? 35% Synthetic – 65% conventional oil mixed.
Maybe you could explain how that could never work.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...end-motor-oil/

mdram43

Because you have a 2500 and no MDS, you can run 5w30 weight oil. Says so right in the owners manual. I would try it in conventional oil in any major brand. You are right when you stated that Fram filters aren’t very good. Wix, Purolator, K+N are all very good. Because you change it often (3k – 4k miles) it’ll work fine. That’s what Chrysler recommends. Because Synthetics are so slippery they can extend the time it takes to seat the piston rings in properly unless the manufacture specifies only Synthetic.

As for your oil pressure being at 48 lbs, that is VERY normal and acceptable to me. Even your dealer techs will tell you that. Engines need approximately 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm to be lubricated properly.

 

I guess i have to be more specific with some people....
i was under the assumption that people were mixing different BRANDS of oil. Thats what i was going by. Different brands may have different chemicals that differ between the brands that may make a bad cocktail that could hurt the engine by mixing "different brands" of oils & weights together. Lets say someone just dumps a couple quarts of non-detergent oil in their hemi truck (lets say with MDS) that they have synthetic oil in it just to top it off, do you think thats ok...? No, it wouldnt be. I think you get what i`m saying.

"Engines need 10psi for every 1,000 rpm"....
harley evo engines can run 5,000rpm at only 20psi oil pressure, so how do you explain that..?

 

HD have roller bearing cranks as do the old 1100/ 1150 Suzuki, old 900 Kawasaki and others. No need for great oil pressure. Here’s my question for you. How does a 2-stroke run with NO oil pressure at all ?

 

LU, you have to be VERY specific on this forum, the guys, well I should say ladies, on here, all happen to be on their time of the month, every day, so they can be quiiiitttttteeee touchy. Infact, I think you and the mods should be the only ones able to answer serious tech questions. everyone else thinks because they have a tool set they got at sears on discount, they are a qualified mechanic. Hey now! I did my oil change last weekend and own a truck! I am an official mans man! hahahaha, take it all with a grain of a salt, and if anything, ____ em! let em sit and wonder, rather than help em

 

Don't be disseminating bad info -- you can, in fact, mix all types and brands, of motor oil. Just stay within the manufacturers specs. It does not matter that it is syn or conventional - all have to be compatible, by law.

 

I'm gonna be the devil's advocate here and say that you shouldn't mix oil brands, although I've done it myself in the past.

I had a good buddy who I went to college with, played football with actually, who is now a chemical engineer for Exxon/Mobil (or at least he was, I haven't talked to him in probably 10 years). He swears they've done testing on mixing of different additive packages that are out there in different oils and has data showing that certain chemicals react with others making them inert, or even in some cases makes them highly corrosive.

Now I have NO first hand experience of this happening, but I figure he knows a hell of a lot more about it than I do, so I just don't mix oils any more.

Are you gonna have a major catastrophe if you mix oils - probably not, but just the same, I don't do it.


As far as the catch can, I've often thought about installing one, usually EVERY time I clean my throttle body of the gooey, caked on mess that collects on the rear of the plate every 15,000 miles. But I usually forget all about it within a few days.
I'm in the process of making my fake scoop (a band aid for a major hood dent caused by a pine limb) fully functional by cutting the hood and re-routing my CAI up into it. This will also let me get my 2nd battery out from under my toolbox and use the passenger side tray I picked up over a year ago. (I re-routed my set of 2 AWG cables for portable rear winch hookup through a water drain hole to hook up to the battery for the time being). I'm either going to do the catch can or at least install one of those baby filters on it and leave the hose off the CAI. Routing those oil fumes into the air intake is great for the tree-huggers, but really sucks for the engine...

 

Phil you are correct. For some facts that back this up here’s a link from Valvoline. Pay attention to the 15th sentence.

http://www.valvoline.com/car-care/au.../ccr20080401v3

 

My old 1983 yamaha 900 has bearing half shells just like a car crank does... 25psi oil pressure, twisting 10,000rpm.
And the answer to your question about 2 strokes... either pre-mixed gas, or a (usually mikuni) oil injection pump injecting oil into the intake ports.
Are you done now...? Thank you