I know you forum guys preach research but their are so many hits on this subject and so many pages in one thread it would take a week to find what im looking for unless i just get lucky. lol Anyway, bought 55w 10k HID from HIDExtra. Installed them and I have flickering when truck is running and only running. Lights on, engine off, no issue. I remember a few weeks ago when i was looking around i came across some info that was similar but it was a ground issue but i don't recall how they resolved it. I believe it had something to do with a ground wire. I know i had a older Chevy with similar issue and i ran one from engine to fender and it was resolved. (I know apples and oranges) I didnt get any of the resistor or canceler. Would one of these help?

 

yes a canceler will help. May I ask why you went with a 10k. Light output drops significantly when you get above 5k or 6k. And most people do the hid conversion for the increased light output.

 

return em! HIDextra is total crap, and this forum needs to get rid of them as a sponsor. I have tried 3 sets from them all with failure.

ddmtuning.com is the best sets out there. I have yet to have trouble with a single set I have used. I should have never even given HIDextra a chance, but will never do so again.

 

I have HIDextra but I am one of the lucky ones that had basically no problems with mine. but mdram is right, you should go through ddm tuning or even retro solutions. Or hit up jeremy up at http://retroshop.mcfail.net and have him install a set of projectors for you and do it the right way.

 

I had to install a canceller which I believe is a capacitor. They would flicker without it. I had the same problem with my can-am Xmr it would shut my bike off when the lights were running, but that turned out to be a bad set cause I installed a different manufacter and they worked flawlessly. Stupid canbus

Mdram how is the ddm setup? Is it plug and play without a canceller?

 

I went 10k because I prefer the color. As far as this company that company goes I have herd bad things about them all and that can be said of any company. I guess I'll order a a canceller and see if it helps. If I have issues with these lights after that then stock bulbs it is. They really aren't that bad compared to other vehicles I've owned.

 

Let us know if the canceller did it so other folks searching might see this. That's the worst when searching threads and the person doesnt post the solution.

 

3 things:

Cancellors work

10000k?!? Really! Can you see at all!

Please install projectors to keep offending glare out of ppls eyes.

Seriously get a set of mini h1 bixenon projectors from TRS and 5000k at highest. You'd be amazed how much more you can see than with the pnp glare kit.

I'm not gonna go off on a flame war here bc I dont wanna get banned.

But I'm a firm believer in the fact that HID's need to be in projectors made just for them for maximum efficiency and minimal glare.

 

I have 4 sets of HIDextra ballasts. 2 for the highs and 2 for the lows. I have had no issues whatsoever! I might be a lucky one as you state, but I have tried mine without the canceler and none of them flicker. I have the canceler installed because it gets rid of the lamp out light but I technically don't need them to make the lights work correctly.

This is an ongoing issue for HID manufactures. I don't know if you know this already but I will state it anyways. HIDs have very little, or next to no resistance because they don't have a filament like a normal halogen. This becomes an issue when you get vehicles like Chrysler who have the headlights monitored by the computer. The way it works is the computer constantly is reading the resistance from the bulb to check that its on, if its not on the computer will send a "pulse" to the headlight to try and see if it can get an increased resistance. If it does not then thats where you get a lamp out light. This is why an HID will flicker on some models of vehicles and not others. Because HIDs have next to no resistance the computer will always try and send that pulse to check if the light is burned out or not. This is the reason for the cancelers, it tricks the computer into thinking that the bulbs are there and that they are ok.

So yes I am pretty sure that the cancelers will solve your issue.

 

Thanks guys! Ill order the canceller today and when they come in ill install and post results and if its fixes it pics.