So hide a possible cause that another posted the HID could be the issue?

great ethics, you must be a politician.

 

I had a similar issue and it turned out I needed a new Instrument Cluster as all that stuff is reported through the cluster. I hooked up a remote starter wire to the incorrect wire a few days prior and it must have popped a diode or burnt a trace out on the module. Cost me $325 OTD installed myself as they are auto programming unlike the tipms that need a starscan tool to configure/program.
I didnt have any gas guage and my headlights were on at all times w/no control or use of fogs. You can do a cluster check by pushing in the trip as you turn the key to the On position but dont start. release the trip and all guages should sweeep and dummy lights illuminate appropriately.


I agree put your holgens back in. If they do reset the TIPM, it'll show Actve DTC codes(not CEL codes..das there IS a difference) and they won't warranty the tipm until the codes, problematic circuits are fixed. Atleast they shouldnt anyways or else it will happen again.
Your not shafting the dealer by putting in your halogens and hising the fact you have HID's. Your shafting Chrysler. It's a crap design to begin so they should deal with whatever problems people have IMO!
They wont warranty it because aftermarket HIDs are actually NOT road legal anywhere in the US, even if they are Genuine OEM products as they dont draw the same current or voltage as Halogens.

The tipms aren't cheap. Anywhere's from $600-1100 depending on model/year. just be aware that TIPM's are only able to be "re-configured"(reset) no more than 5x's. After that, the programming lockes the tipm module and renders it a paper weight. This is supposedly a "safety" design as stated by Chrysler. I call it another crap money needy design.

 

From the 09 Service Manual

The Totally Integrated Power Module (1) (TIPM) is a combination unit that performs the functions of the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and the Front Control Module. The TIPM is a printed circuit board based module that contains fuses, internal relays and a microprocessor that performs the functions previously executed by the FCM.

 

update...

trucks at the dealer, I'm in a loaner..dodge charger. They told me it had a ton of codes pulled, she showed me the list, and it was a **** ton of codes (15). I don't remember all of them. So they recommended I didn't drive it home. They are continuing the diag. while I left and said they have a TIPM on hand so if it is a TIPM they will replace it.

 

Be interesting to see what all the codes are, and if any of them have to do with your programmer or the HIDs.

 

OldJeep.. yea that's what I'm curious about as well, I've been running the stock tune for a couple months now since the winter months are here. In the summer/fall months I've been running the 93 tune. So it's been on stock tune for quite sometime. But we'll see what they say, I'll keep y'all posted! Hopefully I get a call back tonight, if not tonight then tomorrow. I hope it gets fixed by tomorrow since I am heading out of town monday..Which hopefully it gets fixed quickly since there paying for me to be in rental car.

 

Mikey,

I hope they find out whats wrong with your vehicle and get it all fixed up for you.

To the others talking about putting it back to stock and the vehicle being designed wrong I would say this, it's designed to work with the parts that are put on it when it was built. If you modify the vehicle and it causes a problem, whose fault is it that it happened? According to many of you it's Chrysler's fault. If it is put back to stock before taking it in to the dealer, they fix it, and then when you re-install the mod it fails again then what?

The true question when talking about design and aftermarket modifications should really be, is the engineering bad because a stock part caused an issue, or do I not know what I am doing when I try to play a tech and modify my ride by listening to people on the internet who are not techs either?

 

Hopefully its got nothing to do with you messing with those cargo lights, I cant see that happening tho...

As far as the HID thing, I say leave them in, if they can 100% determine that the HIDs are what caused the problem then we must get a hold of HID manufactures to tell them they have to change something. As far as them being illegal, I was under the understanding that if you put in a new housing IE aftermarket headlight or retrofit its legal. Its when you are modifying your factory headlight in anyway IE just putting HIDs in place of the halogens that makes it illegal. I understand that a retro you sometimes use your factory housing, but because its usually done to certain specs it was ok. I know here in Canada they make them illegal because generally when you install them they remove the DRLs, thats what illegal, not the HIDS themselves. Also face it, if they are installed proper and adjusted proper cops and most especially dealers should not have a problem.

But I don't think that HIDS are what the problem is either, unless you are mounting your ballasts close enough to the fuse panel. But lets speak reality here, the wires are not long enough to go there so they sit in the headlight area right? Those ballast will induce some voltage into the lines around them but because everything is DC you wont get anything going back to the TIPM. It will first damage the instruments down the line before it gets there. AND because we are only talking microvolts chances of that happening are slim too. Look at many imports, they are switching to FACTORY HID headlamps so that can't harm things too much if they are switching to that. Maybe they have other tech in there that allows them to do it, but I doubt it.

I think its just a case of poorly built electronics. If anyone has opened up a computer or seen a circuit board you will notice the very tiny parts. Because in today's world everyone wants those boards to be as small and cheap as they can, they have to cut corners. How close are many of the solder points? Sometimes too close for my liking. My idea is that in these TIPMS something is either too close, and heat decides to bring solder points together. Or the caps and diodes they use are so cheap that again under heat the contact breaks. Missing one cap, or diode could in turn smoke the whole device. Electronics are VERY touchy in the present day, it would not surprise me because the cheapness too that this is happening.

 

Nate makes good points. My experience with these type of electronics is that the weak point is where the connector is soldered to the circuit Printed Wiring Assembly (PWA). The mating connector and the weight of the harness put a lot of mechanical stress on the PWA and often cause cracked solder joints. Often one can make symptoms come and go by just simply grabbing the harness close to the PWA and wiggling it around. That is why I always recommend disconnecting the battery first, and then disconnect the harness from the module and inspect the pins (make sure no crushed or damaged pins from the original assembly), reconnect the harness and battery and see if it fixed the problem. Often this will fix the problem but for good measure, withe the engine running, grab the harness and move it around, if you can induce failures it can be cracked solder joints or weak crimps on the wires. The big issue with these problems is that they are often intermittent and sometimes just touching things makes the problem go away only to return some time later.

 

Hey guys... Just got a call from the dealer, its going to be covered on warranty. They said a Multi-Function Switch (MFS) went out.. That's what controls the wipers, trac. control, invertor, high beams... Etc etc... Said it will be fixed by tomorrow. So I'll be picking it up sunday due to work. I'll keep y'all posted on if that fixes the issue.