oh man! sorry to hear about the bad news already! I'd definitely bring it in and say something, and make sure it gets fixed. Well hopefully they solve the issues for yah. Keep us posted please.

 

When I said to disconnect the battery and then reseat the TIPM connectors it's because these new modules with microprocessors and CAN buses are very susceptible to voltage spikes - static electricity and voltage spikes from disconnecting and re-connecting harnesses with the battery connected. The fuses that are there to protect the TIPM are way too slow to blow before a high voltage spike can get through them and blow a chip on the boards. In the old days you would blow a fuse and no big deal. With the HIDS, the issue can be if the capacitors go bad (leaky or open up) and then voltage spikes are present, they don't always blow a chip up but the potential is always there.

 

Where are the TIPM connectors?

 

The TIPM is just in front of the battery, The connectors are below it. It's the module with all of the fuses in it.

 

I wouldn't touch a thing, take it back to where you bought it and do not accept it until they can prove its corrected.

 

Owen is right about not touching it if you still have warranty. I'm just talking about the technical aspects if you are stranded or don't have warranty. If it was me, I'd be poking around looking for something loose just to know what's going on before the "stealership" gets their paws on it.

 

Im crossing my fingers. Put the cables back on the battery this morning and it was ok for about 5 seconds then it started doing the same thing, so i was going to unplug the fuse for the wipers, and when i opened the fuse box they quit running looked at the dash and all lights are off now except for the brake light, I think i just have a loose connection on the fuse box somewhere, going to check and clean everything today, hopefully something has just bounced loose.

 

gr8rows, keep us posted and let us know how it goes!

 

Ok, here's the deal...I think. So i took her down to my shop unhooked the battery, removed the fuse box (TIPM) blew it out with some air, cleaned all the conections with electrical cleaner on the box and truck, slapped it back in. Loosened and retightened all the ground wires I could find under the hood, cleaned battery terminals....and it was FIXED!....for about 2 minutes. So I got in it to go to the local auto place, didnt have a spedo, got pulled over and had to open my door because the window wouldnt roll down, didnt get a ticket, sheriffs around here drive NICE 4TH gen Ram 1500's, then i closed my door and the truck was "fixed" again. The auto store's computer that checks codes was dead so I went to the Dodge dealer, he told me they wouldn't be able to find the problem unless they plugged it in the the computer while it was having the problems. Well on the drive home I was trying to figure out what the heck is goin on. So here is what i came up with. I got the windows re-tinted yesterday mornin' it was "messy" because they had to remove the old tint and apply new. I figure some of the water got in some plug inside the drivers door, probably thru the up down swithes, and was grounding something out. I think Im on to something, when i got back home truck was runnin like new, but i tried to get the mail and the front window switches, mirror adjust, window lock, and the exit light on the mirror wouldnt work. Just on the driver door. Its in my shop now with the hood up, battery unhooked, doors open, fans blowin, heaters on. I'll take the switches out of the panel, tomorrow and if everything goes as planned it will be fixed. Ill keep yal posted.

 

Just seems very odd....I'd call the dealer and tell them that this is unacceptable and have them look at it! They should be able to hook up the scan and see what kind of codes the truck has thrown. Take it back to the dealer under the "30 day" warranty you said it has or tell them to keep it and fix it for free and to give you a loaner.