Don't know if you have changed yours, but when I pulled and replaced the cheap nickle plugs at 32K they were in almost perfect shape

I'll have to remember to take some pictures when I replace them again in the next month or 2.

 

Yeah mine looked OK. I wanted the nickel out of there so I didn't have a change interval hanging over me in the future. They should have come with a long life plug to start with. Cost or even a lack of product I imagine was a reason they did not. With the iridium I know now it will be in the 130k range before I even need to think about spark plugs. If the nickel wore that good in these engines I imagine the platinum's or iridium will also.

 

The price you've been quoted is not bad, especially the price for the plugs - I'm paying $100 for the same plugs from the local dealer but that's no surprise up here in the north. The air induction and fuel injection thing is money grab.

You don't need to be a mechanic to change spark plugs although having the applicable tools will definitely come in handy and being somewhat of a contortionist helps. If you do tackle the job on your own: A lot of folks suggest anti-seize be employed on the threads of the plug. I would suggest otherwise. Note NGK's take on the issue:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

 

I`ve seen more NGK plugs broken off inside of cylinder heads because anti-sieze WASN`T used. I have NEVER seen or heard of anyone breaking off a plug AFTER using anti-sieze only to remove them later when new plugs were needed. Also, NGK is using a 10mm plug to describe their issue...? REALLY...???? And if you are over tightening a plug, then maybe you should let the pro`s do it to start with. I will add, YES, lube can make someone over tighten something, but if one has some common sense, they would already know this, if not, then live an learn, experience usually teach`s people rather quickly in most problems. I`ve used anti-sieze on ALL sparkplugs for over 30yrs, i`ve never broken off a sparkplug to this day. But then again, i know how to install/torque sparkplugs too. For years, HONDA sparkplugs (which are NGK) came in the box with anti-sieze already on them.

 

When I picked up my plugs from the dealer, I asked about using anti-seize and was advised not to, I was told me that they don't use it when they change plugs. The only time you really need to make sure you use it is if you remove a plug and re-install it. The removal of the plug damages the special coating so if you reuse it (don't know why anyone would since the plugs are $4 at the dealer), use anti seize. I agree that it's OK to use anti seize if you want to and know what you are doing. The plugs are not torqued to any spec since they use the compression ring, the instructions that come with the plugs say to hand tighten and then turn 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to compress the ring.

BTW, the factory doesn't use anti seize either.

 

if you are changing every 30K, i don't see the need to use anti sieze (i didn't). if you are in the group using extended life plugs like the 100K, i can see why using the AS would be prudent.

 

Respect that. I've dealt with spark plugs, glow plugs and ignitors too - about 40 years worth and have never employed anti-seize in automotive or small engine applications. I've never had a plug break while being removed for OEM specified and/or reasonably scheduled maintenance. I've lubricated ignitor threads in aircraft applications but that is typically what the OEM specifies and is frequently related to the higher operating temperatures.

I can't speak to the veracity of the NGK service advice - it is what it is. It does, however, speak to the construction of the the plugs being provided by dealers for the 09 plus Hemi Rams.

Cheers

 

Just changed mine again today at 59,700 due to having the day off from work and two hours available to do it. Went with the factory OEM NGK plug. Everything came out fine because I had used anti-seize on the last ones I installed, even used a little on the 10mm coil pack fasteners. I just hate getting to the rear ones and the two under the brake booster, what a pain in the butt! Better than spending $290 at the stealership though I guess.

 

I have broken plugs. It was in my old truck, an '05 Chevy Colorado with the inline 5. I was having some issues and, I decided on a hunch to pull the coil overs. The forward 2 of which were corroded (luckily under warranty.) I pulled the plugs, since I had it apart anyway and about 60k miles had been put on it since I got it. I ended up breaking 2 of the plugs taking them out (3 and 5 if I remember right.) Luckily, they stayed inside the socket and didn't get anything inside the head. I had never taken the plugs out before on that vehicle and, didn't do anything else that would have caused them to break. What sucks more, is that only the 2 on the corroded coil overs are the only ones that needed changed. That vehicle said 100k for plug change also btw.

Since then, I've always used anti seize. Why not spend the extra 5 or 10 at most, to not do it?

 

Common problem with chevy, and has been for YEARS i might add.
Touch of anti-sieze will NEVER hurt a thing. Just dont over tighten them.
To all the others that dont believe in anti-sieze, someday you`ll believe...lol.