I have an 09 and it is gonna take me another 2 years to get to 30000 miles 3 years now and only 25000kms so what is that like halfway there 50k kms I am thinking about changing them just to avoid a stuck plug issue, but I will let the dealer pull them and change them the first time then, I will pull them and put antiseize if they don't maybe if I am willing to pay for it they will since it takes so long to get to the mileage. What do you think? I have extended warranty so maybe I will wait till it gets close then do it.

 

How many posts have you read or been directed to with stuck plugs? Any year with Hemi? There will be thousands of these trucks that business and private owners won't change plugs forever. Seen any RRTs or TSBs warning of stuck spark plugs.

 

How many of those thousands will bother to post on a message board though? How many even know that there are vehicle message boards? Many that may have an issue in any brand vehicle would simply get it fixed and move on. A lot of people don't even bother to pay attention to recalls unless they're in the news for some reason or another.

If you're going to take them out, why not spend the extra 10$ max (probably closer to 5$) to get the anti seize and put it on.

 

I've got plenty of antiseize around already, but wouldn't ever have a thought of using it on a sparkplug.

What ngk documents here is what I've always heard about using it on spark plugs. Never had an issue getting a plug out anyways.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

 

My son-inlaw just changed his plugs with 140,000 miles on them. He has a 2003,are they aluminum heads?

 

I've always heard it's common with the Ford Modular motors, not necessarily Chevy's. This proves, it's not a manufacturer specific issue. It's the issue of the plugs being left in for too long. There's alot more aluminum heads on cars these days, where as old days they were mostly cast.
Be careful with the anti-sieze, only a tiny amount is needed. Also, becareful when tightening, anit-seize will change the torque properties and allow you to tighten the spark plug more with the same pressure as dry. This can cause overetighteneing and stripping. A loose spark plug may not fire properly after coming loose(have you even heard of a spark plug coming loose before??) as compared to a stripped spark plug requires heli-coil and then it will never run right again. Plus, heli-coil drops shavings into the cylider.
i believe the rate of change from dry-lube isn't very significant, but there is a difference.

 

Just got mine changed for the first time today. $344 or something like that for all 16. (haven't see the actual bill yet). Well now that it has been done once, I guess I can do it after that now.
The NGK's are 6.88 a plugon my bill. $250 labor.

 

I live in Maryland and the dealer quoted me $449 but they have a coupon for $349. I'll do it myself and get the plugs from RockAuto.com. I've always changed my own plugs and these will be easy compared other engines I've changed them on. No need to go underneath to remove any.

They also told me that my truck has champion platinum plugs repackaged as Mopar. I'm not too sure of this and will pull a plug off the top and bottom to confirm. I don't believe my 2011 5.7 has platinum plugs but only 1 way to find out!

 

Mine were all NGK. They all looked great yet, so they may go back in after the next 30K after a cleaning and gap.

 

Pulled a couple of mine last year, still looked like new at 30,000
I`m just about at 60,000 now, so i`ll replace them (lil dab of copper anti-seize w/install)
Still getting up to 20mpg on the highway @60,000 on worn plugs...! Love that HEMI, i just hate the truck.