I finished removing the pillar block blackouts yesterday. It started out not so good. Then I moved the truck into direct sunshine and it made the job much easier. Here are a few pictures of the fun.

 

Truck looks good, John!
Jay

 

Thanks Jay. When I first started I was thinking I made a mistake. Then add some warm sun and bingo! Got much easier and them my wife helped me out too.
I am considering removing the big "Ram" badge on each side. The one on the door. Leave the "Hemi" badge alone. Have you ever removed these before? I know there are threads on this and I will check them out. Thanks Again.
John

 

Sometimes, less IS more. Looks alot nicer john...!

Debadge by using fishing line, use a back an forth sawing method behind the badge.
Ther will be some glue left behind on the door, i used denatured alcohol to remove the glue.
Then you will want to hand buff it with some swirl mark remover (from your local auto paint store)
Last but not least, use a good wax...DONE. Dont forget to post some pics when done.

Just a side note:
i layed the fishing line on top of the badge, then i put a piece of 3/4 inch painters tape vertically over the badge (painters tape will hold the badge while removing it) so it couldnt just fall on the ground, or ding the paint on my truck in case it decided to fall off before i could catch it. Nothing like a ding in the paint or having the badge hit the ground and ruin it especially if you ever wanted to re-install them later... this way, they`ll be perfect condition to re-use, or to sell them to someone else if you want to.

 

LU229
Thanks. Since the truck is 3 years old, do you think the glue will come off once the badge is removed? Last thing I need is a trip to the body shop.
That is a good idea. Call my local guy and get a price for them to do it. Might be well worth the few bucks?

Does LU229 stand for local union? If so, where and what trade?

 

Hi John,
just a thought...maybe you should go to youtube.com and check out some people on there that are de-badging. Its not really that difficult of a job, BUT, if you dont feel comfortable doing the job, you shouldnt feel bad about not doing it your self and pay a professional to do the job.

Here`s a link you can check out. This how i got mine all off my truck,
the guy used a DIRTY rag in the video, i highly recommend a clean microfiber rag.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=clI78qfUqlg
If this link wont work, just copy/paste this into the youtube searchbar
How To Debadge A Truck THE RIGHT WAY!

Local Union...???
Thats funny budd, i`ve never even seen as that...lol. But, thats a BIG NO, personally i hate unions, they are whats ruining this country. LU is my name, 229 is my birthday...lol... being that i`m old as dirt and cant remember anything anymore, it was the only "user name" that i wouldnt forget...heheheheeee, this is, until the oldtimers decease really hits me harder. (ohhhhhhhhhhhhh...lol)

 

Thanks LU.
I am getting up in age myself. I will be 56 in July. That reminds me of when I went to the wheel shop in town. I had to ask the guy if they had anything more age appropriate. As he recommended 22" inch rims and low profile tires. LOL. My wife got a kick out of that.
That is my next mod. Rims and tires. Whats your opinion on tires. Stock size? Larger rims? Smaller? Same but real ones? Tires?
Thanks for your advice and I will check out the You-Tube videos..

 

Glad to see that there are some other old farts that appreicate nice trucks and working on them, although some may feel we are "out of touch". 68 here!!!
Jay

 

Age appropriate.....ROFLMAO. I gotta remember that one John, thats awesome...LOL.
Tires and rims.... ther`s way to many to choose from today. One mans dream is another mans nightmare. As for size, in my own personal opinion, i always stay with the tire size & wheel size`s that the truck came with from the factory... i`m not the kinda truck guy that goes lookin for trouble. Especially with wheels, alotta junk out there today... some can warp your rotors due to the inferior mounting surface that contacts the face of the brake rotors, when torqued to factory spec, (130ftlbs) they can easily distort because some of the aftermarket wheels dont have much material within the lug nut area to withstand the lug nut torque. Also keep in mind, these suspensions on todays trucks are dialed in pretty decent and thers never enough room to just start throwing all kinds of tires and wheel sizes at them anymore without having an issue here or an issue there because something changed, then the vehicle handles differently. Wheel offset has to be correct too. As for tire choices... i think alot of tires today are WAY over rated. Buy local, then if you have a problem, it can be handled better without a hassle, or LESS of a hassle...lol. Maybe try checking out consumer reports on tires, thats where i usually find out what others have to say about the tires today. I usually find that USA made tires are sometimes the best to go with. (i`ve had the best luck with USA made tires anyway...lol) When i shop for tires, i always ask myself, "what am i going to be doing with this vehicle", that gets me headed in the right direction. To low of a tire profile, bends wheels, rides horrible, but no body roll from sidewall flex. To high of a tire profile, trucks wallow and wander alot, but rides easier over the bumps. As you can see, ther`s a couple good reasons why i stay with the stock factory tire size and wheel size. Alot depends on where you live too, especially in the winter months. If you dont have alot of winter weather issues, go with a good street tire, you save alot in gas money. I have BOTH winter and summer wheels and tires for my truck.

 

ROFLMAO.... Jay we old farts arent out of touch buddie, they are..!!!!....hehehehe