Stock Brake Performance Question
I know some Volkswagons are designed this way. What strikes me odd in your statement is that you said the rotors were finished (and I assumed had to be replaced).
Were both sets of pads on the rear brakes equally worn? If so maybe your proportioning valve that adjusts the front/back bias is not adjusted properly or do you carry a load most the time.
On one wheel, were the inside/outside pads equally worn? If this was the case, it sounds like you could have had a problem with the calipers not floating on pins causing the outside pad to drag and wear out sooner which also would have ruined the rotor.
Were both sets of pads on the rear brakes equally worn? If so maybe your proportioning valve that adjusts the front/back bias is not adjusted properly or do you carry a load most the time.
On one wheel, were the inside/outside pads equally worn? If this was the case, it sounds like you could have had a problem with the calipers not floating on pins causing the outside pad to drag and wear out sooner which also would have ruined the rotor.
You may be right but I know it will go no where. I think the SS brake lines will fix my issue, give me less of a headache, result in a better truck ... and maybe some lessons learned that others on the forum can benefit from.
I know some Volkswagons are designed this way. What strikes me odd in your statement is that you said the rotors were finished (and I assumed had to be replaced).
Were both sets of pads on the rear brakes equally worn? If so maybe your proportioning valve that adjusts the front/back bias is not adjusted properly or do you carry a load most the time.
On one wheel, were the inside/outside pads equally worn? If this was the case, it sounds like you could have had a problem with the calipers not floating on pins causing the outside pad to drag and wear out sooner which also would have ruined the rotor.
Were both sets of pads on the rear brakes equally worn? If so maybe your proportioning valve that adjusts the front/back bias is not adjusted properly or do you carry a load most the time.
On one wheel, were the inside/outside pads equally worn? If this was the case, it sounds like you could have had a problem with the calipers not floating on pins causing the outside pad to drag and wear out sooner which also would have ruined the rotor.
Maybe has to do something with the valving like you said, or maybe it's just normal on these trucks i don't know.
When you do find a set of SS brake lines, let us know where you got them from, my truck is older than yours, so id like the upgrade.Thanks.
Just got done talking with Russell Performance. They make SS brakelines for Edelbrock. They said that they have looked at the later model RAM 1500s and that their brake hoses are too complex in the rear for an aftermarket application. Boy that doesn't sound good. I'll get under the truck this weekend and figure out what is going on. My son has a 2010 that I can look at the next weekend as I'm getting some indication that changes might have been made in the 2011 or 2012 models.
This is a must fix item for me.
This is a must fix item for me.
I also received a reply from Crown Performance that is more insightful. There may be some light at the end of the tunnel.
We only produce a front kit for the 2007-2012 Dodge 1500 trucks. The rears lines are permanently attached to hardlines. (which are about 3 and 5 ft in length each)
Due to the hardline bends and brackets, there is some work involve to be able to mount the ss flex hoses. If you would be willing to do that, then I can give you pricing for rears.
There is also another option, were you can cut and re-flare your hardlines and just replace the 2 rubber lines.
Fronts kit is $85.00
Let me know
Fermin Olguin
Crown Performance Inc.
p.760-599-0090
We only produce a front kit for the 2007-2012 Dodge 1500 trucks. The rears lines are permanently attached to hardlines. (which are about 3 and 5 ft in length each)
Due to the hardline bends and brackets, there is some work involve to be able to mount the ss flex hoses. If you would be willing to do that, then I can give you pricing for rears.
There is also another option, were you can cut and re-flare your hardlines and just replace the 2 rubber lines.
Fronts kit is $85.00
Let me know
Fermin Olguin
Crown Performance Inc.
p.760-599-0090
I crawled under the truck this morning to checkout the rear brakelines. Just as Fermin from Crown Performance described, the brake hoses are permanently attached to the brake lines. The picture below shows the driver's side rear brake. The passenger side rear connects into same block on the underside of the truck bed in the upper part of the left picture. I'm going to have to figure out how to approach this. How do folks handle this how raise their vehicles for off-roading?
I ordered braided ss hoses for the front calipers from Crown Performance, EBC green pads (7000 front and 6000 series rear) from AutoAnything.com, and will use Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. Not sure what I'm going to do with the rear hoses yet.
If you step on your brake pedal and do your normal brake pressure, then increase pressure by standing on the pedal like you would in a panick stop, you will probably find you brake pedal continues to sink to the floorboard. This is my situation. The ss hoses should improve brake pedal feel and make it more solid. The pads should improve the braking force generated during a stop. Hopefully, to the point that my anti-lock brakes will no have to engage. AutoAnything had free shipping and 15% discounts for your first purchase which was nice.
If you step on your brake pedal and do your normal brake pressure, then increase pressure by standing on the pedal like you would in a panick stop, you will probably find you brake pedal continues to sink to the floorboard. This is my situation. The ss hoses should improve brake pedal feel and make it more solid. The pads should improve the braking force generated during a stop. Hopefully, to the point that my anti-lock brakes will no have to engage. AutoAnything had free shipping and 15% discounts for your first purchase which was nice.
I haven't changed anything yet. Even though I have driven my 2012 RAM 1500 3,500 miles, I found out and my brake pads never bedded-in. I coast down a lot and most brake applications are light pressure below 30 mph. Had to do 5 panic stops from 45mph before they set (including the stop to miss the ambulance). This was a surprise to me. Make sure your brake pads are fully set. It makes a big difference on your braking performance. I used an earthquake app on my tablet to measure deceleration forces during braking. Results below. The red line is my son's 2010 1500 with 40,000 miles on it. Each column is approximately 0.5 seconds.
Last edited by menarefrommars; May 23, 2013 at 05:23 AM.



