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Old Aug 17, 2015, 12:34 PM
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Ticking sound when coasting?

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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 03:11 AM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by smellslikeahemi
As for the timing marks, after two full revolutions the marks were several chain links away from where they were supposed to be according to Chrysler.
I think I know why. For sh_ts and giggles and assuming you've still got the old timing chain, count the number of links down from the camshaft sprocket timing marks on either side of the chain to the crankshaft timing mark. You should find one extra link on the left side (facing the engine, looking aft) of the chain as opposed to the right side.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 09:20 AM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by CHILLYPOND
Dusty, don't hold out on us. What other site?
It's called the Ram Forum:


http://www.********.com/f44/ticking_noise_engine-29787/


Bests,
Dusty


2014 Ram Big Horn 1500 Quad Cab2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP70, 3.92 LSD, factory dual exhaust, 20” wheels. Now at:036553 miles.








 
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by CHILLYPOND
I think I know why. For sh_ts and giggles and assuming you've still got the old timing chain, count the number of links down from the camshaft sprocket timing marks on either side of the chain to the crankshaft timing mark. You should find one extra link on the left side (facing the engine, looking aft) of the chain as opposed to the right side.
Hi Keith,


Does this mean that there's a right and a wrong way to install the timing chain?


Bests,
Dusty


2014 Ram Big Horn 1500 Quad Cab2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP70, 3.92 LSD, factory dual exhaust, 20” wheels. Now at:036553 miles.

 
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 01:24 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by Dusty48
Tweaked the URL but it doesn't seem to work. Perhaps a secured thread?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 01:50 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Dusty48
Does this mean that there's a right and a wrong way to install the timing chain?
Indeed, but it's not so much about the chain. It's about respecting the relationship between the cam and the crank. Interpreting the SM verbatim may have one expecting that after barring the crank through two revs, the timing marks on the cam and the crank sprockets (12 o'clock and 6 o'clock respectively) will meet up with the alignment marks on the chain. Not so. In fact, the alignment marks on many timing chains and even timing belts, are there only to establish the initial set point for the crank/cam relationship. In some instances and depending on the engine configuration, you would have to rotate the crank hundreds of times before the alignment marks on the chain once again met up with the crank/cam timing marks. Many service manuals are not clear on that.

All the best for 2016!

Keith
 
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Old Jan 3, 2016 | 08:32 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by CHILLYPOND
I think I know why. For sh_ts and giggles and assuming you've still got the old timing chain, count the number of links down from the camshaft sprocket timing marks on either side of the chain to the crankshaft timing mark. You should find one extra link on the left side (facing the engine, looking aft) of the chain as opposed to the right side.
I found that with the timing marks facing me (the chain is only marked on one side) there is in fact and extra link but it is on the right hand side. 18 links on the right and 17 on the left, this is not counting the marked links themselves and there are two marks side by side up where the Camshaft sprocket sits initially. On another note I was able to completely disassemble the phaser, turns out that where I thought I was gonna have to drill there are actually three very small threaded studs that hold things together. After some wiggling and pulling it came apart where the studs were and I don't think it was supposed to be as easy to get apart as it was. There was also a questionable plunger with a small spring and the spring had some fragments stuck to it, again not sure what the purpose of it is.


















 

Last edited by smellslikeahemi; Jan 3, 2016 at 08:34 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 02:40 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by smellslikeahemi
On another note I was able to completely disassemble the phaser, turns out that where I thought I was gonna have to drill there are actually three very small threaded studs that hold things together. After some wiggling and pulling it came apart where the studs were and I don't think it was supposed to be as easy to get apart as it was. There was also a questionable plunger with a small spring and the spring had some fragments stuck to it, again not sure what the purpose of it is.
Thanks for the shots depicting the guts of your cam phaser. Not entirely what I expected but the components that are common with the technology are evident. This is a vane type phaser and the small studs that secure the trigger housing to the phaser rotor are indeed there just to simply hold things together - apparently they're somewhat delicate in that regard and are prone to flying apart if you bump them hard or worse, drop it on the floor. . The unit's structural integrity comes from having it bolted to the cam. The plunger locks the rotor to the stator in the null/default position during startup until oil pressure builds and pushes the plunger into the rotor. You can see the corresponding lock recess in the stator housing depicted in your 4th pic. This lock plunger feature is a common failure item with Ford's 4.6 and 5.4 engines. I've not run across any details indicating similar CDJR failures. Re the fragments you found in the spring for the plunger: Were they metallic in nature?

Cheers,

Keith
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 08:21 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by CHILLYPOND
Tweaked the URL but it doesn't seem to work. Perhaps a secured thread?
For some strange reason when I copy the URL into this site the root turns into asterisks.


Worse now, I cannot open the link. So I don't know what heck is wrong.


Bests,
Dusty
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 01:47 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by smellslikeahemi
DRUM ROLL PLEASE!! I am proud to say that I have solved the "ticking sound when coasting" issue. After long hours laboring out in the below freezing temperatures I got the truck back together and let it idle until it reached operating temperature to confirm I had no leaks. Went on a 15 mile test drive mostly through my neighborhood where I'm surrounded by houses/fences and can hear everything going on, and another 25 highway miles. NO FUNKY NOISES.
Still no funky noises? No ticking or rattling?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 12:30 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by CHILLYPOND
Still no funky noises? No ticking or rattling?
Nothing yet and I've gone close to 1,500 mi since the job. I've been periodically getting under the hood to check for anything and everything that could be wrong still (I'm extremely pessimistic) and so far all is golden. Only crap my ram has given me is the keyless entry stopped working randomly so as of late I have to unlock my door with the key like some kind of caveman. Hahaha
 
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