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could the Fuel pump be bad ??

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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:20 PM
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Default could the Fuel pump be bad ??

I have a 2011 ram 1500 4.7L 2wd.
About a week ago it started to give me a problem starting, would have to try 2-3 times before it would start, then no problem for a couple of days.
It has done this about 4 times until today 7/8/13.
it has done this a few times, I found out that some of the automatics have a valve in the trans. that are known to go bad and the will keep the truck from starting, however if you turn the key off put it in neutral it will start.
Well that worked well until I went to get dinner, when leaving the restaurant
it did not want to start in park or neutral, when it did finally kick over it acted like it would not stay running and in fact stopped twice.
Got it restarted ran a little rough then ran great.
Hesitated a couple of times but did not stop.
Acted like it was not getting enough fuel.
So could it be the fuel pump going bad or crankshaft positioning sensor or timing sensor ??
If any one could help please let me know your thoughts!
Thanks
Jeff
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:43 PM
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The other items you listed would throw a code, at some point. If you turn the ignition on and off a couple times, leaving it on each time for 5 seconds or so, will it start better? Run low to out of gas recently?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:51 PM
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Hi Car Guy thanks for the response, I'm waiting for a friend of mine to bring over his computer so I can check for any fault codes.
As far as the gas goes I have never run out of gas, I don't like to let it get below a quarter of a tank, I did get down the other day to about an 1/8th of a tank but this problem started before that.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 12:02 PM
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Hi Car Guy, I did as you suggested with the ignition and it did start after I
cycled the pump.
Once it starts it might not do it again until it sits for a little bit and some times not until the next morning.
I drove a short distance and it hesitated 3 times in a row then smoothed out.
Any thoughts?

Thanks
Jeff
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 12:10 PM
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on my 95 the anti drain valve in the fuel pump was going so i had to turn the truck to on , then wait 3 or 4 sec before starting for the fuel to get to the motor. it only did this overnight or sitting for awhile.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffm813
I have a 2011 ram 1500 4.7L 2wd.
About a week ago it started to give me a problem starting, would have to try 2-3 times before it would start, then no problem for a couple of days.
It has done this about 4 times until today 7/8/13.
it has done this a few times, I found out that some of the automatics have a valve in the trans. that are known to go bad and the will keep the truck from starting, however if you turn the key off put it in neutral it will start.
Well that worked well until I went to get dinner, when leaving the restaurant
it did not want to start in park or neutral, when it did finally kick over it acted like it would not stay running and in fact stopped twice.
Got it restarted ran a little rough then ran great.
Hesitated a couple of times but did not stop.
Acted like it was not getting enough fuel.
So could it be the fuel pump going bad or crankshaft positioning sensor or timing sensor ??
If any one could help please let me know your thoughts!
Thanks
Jeff

Jeff,

Have you had your vehicle diagnosed by a Dodge dealer? Do you know if there is any warranty remaining?

If you would like to review your vehicle's warranty please feel free to PM me. Having the concerns diagnosed by a Dodge dealer may help save you time and money in the long run. If you have any inquiries let me know and I'd be happy to help.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 10:52 AM
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Hi Katie, I just came from the local dodge dealer, Had to have a recall fixed.
"Oxygen sensor heater sense circuit"
They did not find any fault codes. I talked with the service writer and explained to him what was going on.
cannot recreate it. It usually happens after it sits for a bit or over night.
Also talked with a mechanic and he said that would more than likely be the problem.

Ok so 2 days ago I called the dodge deal to for ask the price for a new fuel pump knowing that I would be there today.

First off they told me they had some in stock then was told the price.
$300.00 (more like a gouge) WHAT ??

So today when I was there while waiting for the recall to be fixed I
! asked if it was covered under the 100,000 mile warranty they said no,
then I went to the parts counter to get it I was told we don't have any in stock at the moment and that the price was ????

$449.00 !!!!!!!! WHAT THE HELL first off why so damn much for a part that doesn't cost that much to produce.
Sorry for the tone but I think one it should last more than 2 years ! and 2 it should not cost any where near that much.

Thanks for listening
Jeff
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffm813
Hi Katie, I just came from the local dodge dealer, Had to have a recall fixed.
"Oxygen sensor heater sense circuit"
They did not find any fault codes. I talked with the service writer and explained to him what was going on.
cannot recreate it. It usually happens after it sits for a bit or over night.
Also talked with a mechanic and he said that would more than likely be the problem.

Ok so 2 days ago I called the dodge deal to for ask the price for a new fuel pump knowing that I would be there today.

First off they told me they had some in stock then was told the price.
$300.00 (more like a gouge) WHAT ??

So today when I was there while waiting for the recall to be fixed I
! asked if it was covered under the 100,000 mile warranty they said no,
then I went to the parts counter to get it I was told we don't have any in stock at the moment and that the price was ????

$449.00 !!!!!!!! WHAT THE HELL first off why so damn much for a part that doesn't cost that much to produce.
Sorry for the tone but I think one it should last more than 2 years ! and 2 it should not cost any where near that much.

Thanks for listening
Jeff
Do what I said earlier and what Dodgeboy said yesterday.

After it sits and normally starts hard...

1. Turn key to on position (do not start)
2. Wait 5 seconds.
3. Turn back to off.
4. Turn to on position
5. Wait 5 seconds
6. Try to start

If it starts normal vs the hard starting it does now then yes, fuel pump.

Some dealerships will install an aftermarket pump that you bring if you want to save a few dollars. You can install yourself as well, you would need to drop the tank though. Oh, do not keep much gas in it for the time being so dropping it is not as hard.

The pump would be covered under the 3/36 but not the 5/100.
 

Last edited by CarGuyOhio; Jul 11, 2013 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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I had a very similar issue with my C5 vette. No codes, had to cycle the key as a couple of folks here have suggested to get it to start right away. The dealer said, no code no problem. I said, there is a problem but I had to let the car sit for a while to duplicate it. Long story short, the dealer said it has to be the fuel pump and they wanted a ton of $$s to do it. I changed the fuel pressure regulator and the problem went away. The problem for you is that the pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump on the Ram, so in your case, it points to the pump. Maybe you can live with it for a while and have someone measure the fuel pressure at the rails when you can duplicate the problem. As far as the dealer prices go, sometimes it depends on who is behind the counter. When I did my 30K spark plug change, the dealer charged me $4 and change per plug. I went back for the 60K plugs and they wanted the full suggested price of almost $8. I left the parts and the counter and walked away. Got the plugs on the internet for the $4 I paid the first time.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 12:00 AM
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jeffm813

How many miles are on your truck... chrysler might help you with a "Good Will" kind of program with the price of parts/labor.

I believe the fuel pump is controlled by the TIPM, maybe you might have a bad TIPM (???)
Its not like most of us havent heard of bad TIPM`s in these trucks. (oop`s, did i really say that...???)

Have you checked for battery voltage at the pump when this happens...???
It will only have approx 3 seconds of voltage when the key is turned "on" (priming stage)
Have someone turn the ignition to "start" while you check for voltage at the pump (should have full time voltage)
This method should help you determine whether the pump is actually bad, or not getting battery voltage.
If you dont have any voltage, it might be a bad TIPM... thats going to cost you more than a pump for sure.
 

Last edited by LU229; Jul 12, 2013 at 12:09 AM.
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