x2. Just ordered a set. I replaced them at around 36K which seemed too soon and now have 87K - figure it must be time to do it again.

 

I will also add, that when you go to install the new plugs, slip a long piece of fuel hose over the top end of the plug to ease them down into the holes to re-start them with. Seat the new plug, pull the fuel hose off. This will cut your install time right in half. Not to mention, you wont drop the plug into the hole and smash the tip. Just slide it in carefully, spin it until seated, torque them...done. As much as i hate to say this in here, (because some people usually disagree) put some "Hi-Temp" copper anti-seize on the threads before installing the new plugs... you`ll thank yourself for doing so the next time you do your plugs.

 

Or just use a magnetic spark plug socket

 

Fuel hose is cheaper and easier to find...lol

 

And put some dielectric grease on the plug ceramic or in the boot to make sure the boots pull off easily next time.

As for the hose idea, that is very good. I have a spark plug socket with a rubber insert that accomplishes the same thing.

Rob

 

My experience with the rubber ones is that the insert tends to come out after while and stays with the plug no matter how nice the socket is. That is why I switched to the magnetic ones.

 

True. If I had a magnetic one I'd probably prefer it. The rubber version is workable though, if that's all you have. If you use dielectric grease on the plug ceramic or put a little on the rubber insert then it has enough tension to hold the plug but not pull out of the socket. This is important on the Hemi since the plugs go down in the holes so deep, because without this grease sometimes the socket actually pulls off of the extension if the tension is too much.

Rob

 

I replaced mine at 30K and 60K. Paid about $70-$80 for the plugs. I took my plug socket and inserted some foam and took a hot phillips screwdriver to make a hole in the middle. I haven't dropped a plug yet. I should look into the magnetic one though. I use a coffee table to stand on when doing the changes so that I can lean into the the truck. I also have an old sofa cushion foam piece that I put on top of the tuck so I don't end up with bruises on my chest and belly. The plugs looked and measured like new, but for the 2 hours effort and the price of the plugs, I didn't want to jeopardize the lifetime power train warranty. I haven't used anti seize and the plugs come right out. The plugs have an anti seize coating on them already from the factory. I think that since the plug to head seal is a crush ring, the anti seize doesn't affect the torque. I find it interesting that the owners service manual gives a torque setting for the plugs, but the plugs themselves tell to just crush the ring and no torque values.

 

NGK has very specific recommendations for spark plug torque:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...stallation.asp

 

The MOPAR plugs I got from the dealer the first time (30k) have the instructions on the box. It says to tighten 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn (180 - 240 degrees). The box also states the following "Trivalent metal plating provides superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing performance". There is no mention of torque anywhere.

The NGK plugs I got online for the 60k change, give an option for either torque or crush:

for iron heads = 18-25 lb/ft
for Aluminum heads = 18-21 lb/ft
or for either type of head = Hand Tighten plus 1/2 - 2/3 turn. The box does not mention the Trivalent coating.

The plugs themselves are the same part number and look identical, so I used the MOPAR instructions.

I don't think it really matters which way one does it, torque with anti-seize or crush without anti-seize. It's just easier for me to do the crush hand method than try to get the torque right on the back plugs.