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30k plugs

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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 11:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BigBlueEdge
And put some dielectric grease on the plug ceramic or in the boot to make sure the boots pull off easily next time.

As for the hose idea, that is very good. I have a spark plug socket with a rubber insert that accomplishes the same thing.

Rob
"dielectric grease"
Good catch, thank you Rob. I DO use DG on everything electrical, just slipped the old-timers mind when i commented above.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #32  
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The next day I have available to shut the truck down (use for business), I plan on having the plugs changed and the rear brakes done (not a dealer).


Tomorrow the dealer can fix my header exhaust leak (again)... but I think it may be the opposite bank this time.


2010 Hemi 1500 - 92k - still on original plugs....
 
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Old Aug 25, 2013 | 09:12 PM
  #33  
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Not to hijack the plug thread......But, when you do the rear brakes have them pull off the rear rotors and check the e-brake shoes. I had one pad fall off the shoe. I never would have known unless I was changing the rotors out. The dealer wanted $500 to scrape the rotors and put on new stock pads. I got all 4 rotors (Drilled and slotted with a full set of ceramic pads) for $250.00 from Brakemotive.. Then I had to get a set of e-brake shoes for $100.00. Just be prepared to check.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 12:17 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RAMULAK
Not to hijack the plug thread......But, when you do the rear brakes have them pull off the rear rotors and check the e-brake shoes. I had one pad fall off the shoe. I never would have known unless I was changing the rotors out. The dealer wanted $500 to scrape the rotors and put on new stock pads. I got all 4 rotors (Drilled and slotted with a full set of ceramic pads) for $250.00 from Brakemotive.. Then I had to get a set of e-brake shoes for $100.00. Just be prepared to check.
How many miles were logged when you found the E-brake shoes were junk (?)
Did brakmotive have the e-brk shoes..?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 03:17 PM
  #35  
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63,000 miles when I decided to do the rotors because they warped worse than a Star Trek Convention. No I decided not to use the Brakemotive pads that were sent with the rotors and used all NAPA Adaptive one pads on the calipers and their premium e-brake shoes. They are fairly expensive at around a hundred bucks just for the e-brake shoes. And as suggested by someone on the forum here, I think they were correct and it would be easier to do by pulling the axles out and doing a diff fuid change at the same time if you actually have to do the e-brake shoes. I mean why not. Biggest pain is there are two springs at the lower on the left and two higher on the right. Even with the proper tools, which I had, it is almost impossible to get the rear spring on without using every high octane expletive ever created by any race on the planet, including hieroglyphics. Then you get to adjust the star adjuster by hand as it is not self adjusting as far as I could tell. Try spinning the rear rotor by hand to test the drag on a limited slip diff. Yeah you get the picture.

Yeah I whine a lot.....

.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 11:32 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by RAMULAK
63,000 miles when I decided to do the rotors because they warped worse than a Star Trek Convention. No I decided not to use the Brakemotive pads that were sent with the rotors and used all NAPA Adaptive one pads on the calipers and their premium e-brake shoes. They are fairly expensive at around a hundred bucks just for the e-brake shoes. And as suggested by someone on the forum here, I think they were correct and it would be easier to do by pulling the axles out and doing a diff fuid change at the same time if you actually have to do the e-brake shoes. I mean why not. Biggest pain is there are two springs at the lower on the left and two higher on the right. Even with the proper tools, which I had, it is almost impossible to get the rear spring on without using every high octane expletive ever created by any race on the planet, including hieroglyphics. Then you get to adjust the star adjuster by hand as it is not self adjusting as far as I could tell. Try spinning the rear rotor by hand to test the drag on a limited slip diff. Yeah you get the picture.

Yeah I whine a lot.....

.
Hi-jacked or not, still GREAT info to know...!!! Thank you for sharing...!
PS... no, i wouldnt say you were whining, its normal actions, and thats pretty much the way it is for most people that work on any vehicle. I`ve always said for years, if the engineers had to work on what they design for a living everyday, they`d change the design in a heartbeat, but since they dont, they dont give a ratz azz.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 03:24 PM
  #37  
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Update, just turned 103k on original plugs.

It is my intention to shut the truck down to get some routine maint done soon.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 03:46 PM
  #38  
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My question is what is your time worth to you? There are coupons on the internet to get you plugs changed for $160. So if you buy the plugs for 60 bucks thats only 100 labor to have them changed at dealer. That sure seems cheap to me so I dont have to crawl all over that thing on a weekend.
www.mopar.com/coupons/
 

Last edited by stlram; Feb 2, 2014 at 03:49 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #39  
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FWIW - maint interval is now 48K according to dealer.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stlram
My question is what is your time worth to you? There are coupons on the internet to get you plugs changed for $160. So if you buy the plugs for 60 bucks thats only 100 labor to have them changed at dealer. That sure seems cheap to me so I dont have to crawl all over that thing on a weekend.
www.mopar.com/coupons/
Guess it depends on what your time is worth. Pretty easy to do it in an hour
 
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