One trick worth mentioning. Before you attempt to drill out the broken studs, buy some left hand drill bits. They are made for this very reason. At a minimum, they will not tighten the studs as you drill and make removal with an Easy-Out more difficult. But with any luck at some point during the drilling process they will grab the stud and spin it out. I have used them many times in the past working on diesel engines and they have saved me a TON of labor many times. They are priceless when it comes to drilling out broken bolts and studs.

Here is a link to give you an idea but buy them at any decent hardware or auto parts store. I would recommend buying a good quality set, not the import junk from Harbor Freight.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bit...drill-bit-sets

 

There is a Rapid Response service notice on the bolts. They will be covered under warranty or this RR. My first ones failed at 35K miles and the same back two bolts on the right manifold failed again after another 40K miles. I hope this problem has been fixed so that I don't have to do it again. They need to get some better bolts......

 

Actually, the exhaust manifold bolts part number has been revised several times, indicating a change in material or manufacturing process, or a change in supplier. They will also replace the exhaust manifold gasket with an improved type.


Regards,
Dusty


2014 Ram Big Horn 1500 Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP70, 3.92 LSD, factory dual exhaust, 20” wheels. Now at: 009153 miles.

 

Did it on your own? Cool! I just dropped $600 @ the dealer a few weeks ago, i was out of warranty by 10 days! So thats pretty much what u saved.

 

have a 3rd gen Ram, 14 years old this month, and 110K miles, I'm the original owner. Took to dealer for PA "safety" inspection and was told 2 exhaust manifold bolts and cat converter, 400 for bolts, 1200 for cat. Did all myself for 300! Actually 400 because the rite manifold was cracked and used Dorman replacement, dealer price was 303. Mig welded nuts to the studs, 3 came out easily, 4th took a number of tries but, luckily, it was the easiest to get to. I bought Dorman studs, Rock auto Walker cat and pipe, and splurged in buying Ram exhaust pipe bolts and captured nuts. Considering a the actual 4 broken studs and cracked manifold, the dealer price would have probably approached 2000. There is an excellent YouTube video where a guy replaces flush broken studs on a 2500 Ram, very good photography and logical sequence of repairs. Waiting now for next surprise from my Ram. Oh yeah, with inner shield off, I replaced tranny cooler line leaking at the rusted swedge, replaced steel tube in heater hose with copper!

 

You want to be in the third gen ram section.

 

Is there studs or bolts on the manifolds and would stainless steel work on these heads since it’s a harder substance?

 

It isn't the bolts that are the problem. It's the manifold design. It concentrates all the heat the further back you go, so the manifold expands/moves, and the bolts break. Doesn't matter what bolts you use, if you leave the stock manifolds in place, it will just break them again, later on down the road. Shorty headers, remflex gaskets, and good quality header bolts solve the issue permanently.

 

I just went over to long tube headers. I replaced the original bolts with the bolts the headers came with (the JBL ones), are those good enough? Are there better bolts to put in?

I did have two broken head bolts from stock. Driver's side rear upper, and passenger side rear lower. I'm leaving them for now, until I can get them fixed. Dealership said no, and even called Dodge directly, still said no for covering. (2010, close to 140k miles).

 

Yeah, the standard header bolts should work fine. It's the cheap gaskets they give you with the headers that generally cause issues. That's why I suggest the remflex fellers. They have dead-soft copper, or aluminum, and those guys, install them once, and you are done. They don't leak. Ever.