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Removing Ball Joint Upper Control Arm

Old Sep 13, 2017 | 12:33 AM
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Default Removing Ball Joint Upper Control Arm

Hi,
I am doing the ReadyLift 2" level on my 2017 4x4 1500. I made a mistake and punctured the boot on the ball joint after install, so now I have to remove the UCA. I can't for the life of me get the ball joint to release however. I have hit the boss with a hammer repeatedly and nothing. I am beginning to worry I might be damaging the boss/knuckle. Is that possible? Do most of you just hit it with a deadblow? If so what size? So frustrated with myself for doing this.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 07:55 AM
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If the 2017 is like the 2014, the ball joint is just a tapered seat ball joint. You remove the ball joint retaining nut from the spindle side, then use a ball joint removal tool. The manufacturer recommends the threaded picklefork prying version, but if you're replacing the ball joint anyway, a regular pickle fork may work.

I'm not sure you'll be able to pop it loose by only using a hammer on the spindle with no pressure applied to the joint. That might possibly work if you have a rather powerful air hammer, but the pickle fork approach will likely yield better results.

-Rod
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SHO Rod
If the 2017 is like the 2014, the ball joint is just a tapered seat ball joint. You remove the ball joint retaining nut from the spindle side, then use a ball joint removal tool. The manufacturer recommends the threaded picklefork prying version, but if you're replacing the ball joint anyway, a regular pickle fork may work.

I'm not sure you'll be able to pop it loose by only using a hammer on the spindle with no pressure applied to the joint. That might possibly work if you have a rather powerful air hammer, but the pickle fork approach will likely yield better results.

-Rod
I actually got both of the OEM ball joints loose by just using a claw hammer. Like I said I really did something stupid and messed up the ball joint on the replacement once it was already in. It is the new one I am having a real problem releasing. I am going to try a 4 pound deadblow mallet. It is what all of the instructions suggest. I just didn't have a deadblow. I have one on the way. Will update if works
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 09:28 PM
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I use a pair of 3 pound single-jacks. (big hammers.) Hold one against one side, and SMACK the other side. Usually two or three hits, and it pops loose.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2017 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I use a pair of 3 pound single-jacks. (big hammers.) Hold one against one side, and SMACK the other side. Usually two or three hits, and it pops loose.
I have a 2 pound and 4 pound dead blow coming. I will try that and hopefully it will come out quickly. I have scarred the knuckle. Will that have any long term effects?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2017 | 08:13 AM
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I don't know if the dead blow hammers will actually work as well as just a chunk of iron.... Try it and see.

Where did you scar the knuckle?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2017 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I don't know if the dead blow hammers will actually work as well as just a chunk of iron.... Try it and see.

Where did you scar the knuckle?
On the outside of the knuckle you can see and feel where it has been struck by the hammer. The metal there is soft. Is it aluminum? I don't think I could have deformed the seat could I? But you can definitely tell I whacked it a few times. Typical where it is smoother and the seam is flattened kind of stuff.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2017 | 10:49 AM
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No worries. I don't know what the knuckles are made of on the newer trucks.... so long as nothing broke, you are fine.
 
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