Removing Ball Joint Upper Control Arm
Hi,
I am doing the ReadyLift 2" level on my 2017 4x4 1500. I made a mistake and punctured the boot on the ball joint after install, so now I have to remove the UCA. I can't for the life of me get the ball joint to release however. I have hit the boss with a hammer repeatedly and nothing. I am beginning to worry I might be damaging the boss/knuckle. Is that possible? Do most of you just hit it with a deadblow? If so what size? So frustrated with myself for doing this.
I am doing the ReadyLift 2" level on my 2017 4x4 1500. I made a mistake and punctured the boot on the ball joint after install, so now I have to remove the UCA. I can't for the life of me get the ball joint to release however. I have hit the boss with a hammer repeatedly and nothing. I am beginning to worry I might be damaging the boss/knuckle. Is that possible? Do most of you just hit it with a deadblow? If so what size? So frustrated with myself for doing this.
If the 2017 is like the 2014, the ball joint is just a tapered seat ball joint. You remove the ball joint retaining nut from the spindle side, then use a ball joint removal tool. The manufacturer recommends the threaded picklefork prying version, but if you're replacing the ball joint anyway, a regular pickle fork may work.
I'm not sure you'll be able to pop it loose by only using a hammer on the spindle with no pressure applied to the joint. That might possibly work if you have a rather powerful air hammer, but the pickle fork approach will likely yield better results.
-Rod
I'm not sure you'll be able to pop it loose by only using a hammer on the spindle with no pressure applied to the joint. That might possibly work if you have a rather powerful air hammer, but the pickle fork approach will likely yield better results.
-Rod
If the 2017 is like the 2014, the ball joint is just a tapered seat ball joint. You remove the ball joint retaining nut from the spindle side, then use a ball joint removal tool. The manufacturer recommends the threaded picklefork prying version, but if you're replacing the ball joint anyway, a regular pickle fork may work.
I'm not sure you'll be able to pop it loose by only using a hammer on the spindle with no pressure applied to the joint. That might possibly work if you have a rather powerful air hammer, but the pickle fork approach will likely yield better results.
-Rod
I'm not sure you'll be able to pop it loose by only using a hammer on the spindle with no pressure applied to the joint. That might possibly work if you have a rather powerful air hammer, but the pickle fork approach will likely yield better results.
-Rod
I have a 2 pound and 4 pound dead blow coming. I will try that and hopefully it will come out quickly. I have scarred the knuckle. Will that have any long term effects?
On the outside of the knuckle you can see and feel where it has been struck by the hammer. The metal there is soft. Is it aluminum? I don't think I could have deformed the seat could I? But you can definitely tell I whacked it a few times. Typical where it is smoother and the seam is flattened kind of stuff.










