Hemi camshaft
I had a lifter roller go bad on my 2011. Luckily the cam was not damaged so all I needed was a new set of lifters. The whole job was easily completed over one weekend and I couldn't be happier with the results. I've got 20,000 miles on it since and the engine is still super quiet. I did switch over to Redline oil and the Royal Purple filter.
Before engine noise -
Bad Lifter -
After results -
The oem Melling lifters can be purchased at almost any local parts store.
Good-luck.
Before engine noise -
Good-luck.
The book says to remove the AC condenser when you remove the radiator. I just finished doing the cam & lifters on my '09 and can tell you that if your careful, you don't have to (I didn't). You do have to be very careful when working around where the AC pipes attached to the evaporator at the fire wall on the passenger side....and you'll have to work around the hoses which cross from left to right that go to the compressor. If you evacuate the AC, then you can remove the hoses & compressor to make more room to work.
Be very carefull that you don't let the cam chain slip off the lower sprocket (mark the chain, upper sprocket, and block with a marker just in case so you can get them lined up properly. Otherwise you'll have to pull the pan to get the oil pump off to see the alignment marks.
I left the exhaust manifolds still attached to the heads when I pulled them to avoid some of the hassle of getting to the bolts (and I had some broken exhaust bolts). Be prepared to cut the exhaust pipe flange bolts as they have a very flimsy retainer to keep the nut from turning (you might be luckier than I was).
There's an electrical plug connector on the very back of the manifold that is hard to reach & the wire harness doesn't have much slack. Take your time to get it unhooked (I gave up & cut the wires & spliced in a longer pig tail when I re-assembled).
Lots-o-luck,
Mike Sal
Be very carefull that you don't let the cam chain slip off the lower sprocket (mark the chain, upper sprocket, and block with a marker just in case so you can get them lined up properly. Otherwise you'll have to pull the pan to get the oil pump off to see the alignment marks.
I left the exhaust manifolds still attached to the heads when I pulled them to avoid some of the hassle of getting to the bolts (and I had some broken exhaust bolts). Be prepared to cut the exhaust pipe flange bolts as they have a very flimsy retainer to keep the nut from turning (you might be luckier than I was).
There's an electrical plug connector on the very back of the manifold that is hard to reach & the wire harness doesn't have much slack. Take your time to get it unhooked (I gave up & cut the wires & spliced in a longer pig tail when I re-assembled).
Lots-o-luck,
Mike Sal
2011 Ram 1500 5.7L
I had a lifter roller go bad on my 2011. Luckily the cam was not damaged so all I needed was a new set of lifters. The whole job was easily completed over one weekend and I couldn't be happier with the results. I've got 20,000 miles on it since and the engine is still super quiet. I did switch over to Redline oil and the Royal Purple filter.
Before engine noise - https://youtu.be/lIUGV26OuuQ
Bad Lifter - https://youtu.be/7TIf1q4hmTU
After results - https://youtu.be/987QA7Gv78M
The oem Melling lifters can be purchased at almost any local parts store.
Good-luck.
Before engine noise - https://youtu.be/lIUGV26OuuQ
Bad Lifter - https://youtu.be/7TIf1q4hmTU
After results - https://youtu.be/987QA7Gv78M
The oem Melling lifters can be purchased at almost any local parts store.
Good-luck.
I know that this is an old thread. AMS Racing makes a camshaft MDS delete kit. Texas Speed also has a MDS delete kit.
https://www.amsracing.net/collections/hemi-mds-delete-kits
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-8186-mds-delete-kit-09-18-57-64-hemi.aspx
I own a 2016 ram 1500 that was making the ticking noise when I first bought the truck. I was going to do the cam shaft upgrade, but found out that my ECM has to unlocked prior to any aftermarket computer re-program.
I was going to pull the engine and also fix the leaky exhaust manifold. Sad that a truck with only 70000 kms/45000 miles has to have the engine removed for engine repairs. After a bunch on whining I got my local dodge dealer to do the repairs under warranty.
My brother has a 2020 grand cherokee, the 5.7L engine failed with less than 1000 kms/600miles on it. The engine just ate itself one morning, lol.
I guess that you can just change oil when you replace engine.
https://www.amsracing.net/collections/hemi-mds-delete-kits
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-8186-mds-delete-kit-09-18-57-64-hemi.aspx
I own a 2016 ram 1500 that was making the ticking noise when I first bought the truck. I was going to do the cam shaft upgrade, but found out that my ECM has to unlocked prior to any aftermarket computer re-program.
I was going to pull the engine and also fix the leaky exhaust manifold. Sad that a truck with only 70000 kms/45000 miles has to have the engine removed for engine repairs. After a bunch on whining I got my local dodge dealer to do the repairs under warranty.
My brother has a 2020 grand cherokee, the 5.7L engine failed with less than 1000 kms/600miles on it. The engine just ate itself one morning, lol.
I guess that you can just change oil when you replace engine.

Last edited by Mike Holmen; Feb 17, 2021 at 10:46 AM.









