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4th Gen Ram Tech2009 - 2018 Rams and the 2019 Ram Classic: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2009 - 2018 Rams and the 2019 Ram Classic. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
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I have 2011 Ram 1500 outdoorsman with the 5.7 hemi. Started getting some skipping at high rpms on highway with blinking check engine. Read "multiple cylinder misfires" and eventually happened more often and got worse, light stayed on. Now reads camshaft codes and cylinder 5 misfire. Replaced injector and coil then found the lifter/cam issues in this forum. No time to do major rebuild, I want the truck to work so I can sell and buy newer.
SO I found supposedly a "09-10 Durango 5.7 totally rebuilt" for cheap. Any reason I can't do this swap? Thanks for any input
I have a Durango and am doing something similar in reverse. It should bolt up so long as you use all of your old car's parts. The big thing is the engine. 2005-2008 Hemi's (w/o MDS) do not directly swap into post 2009 Hemi MDS vehicles. The years you gave should work. Be sure to check a few things before transferring them over like the oil cooler, intake manifold, oil pan, oil pickup tube, and anything else I might have missed. You do not want trash getting caught in the new engine from the old one. Good luck to you!
I did get the cylinder heads back from the machine shop. Cleaned, new stems, and a valve job (with a couple replaced) was done awhile back. I was read to install the motor after getting a new reman Torque Converter on to have to wait on the seal. After I got all the parts, I then had an issue with the oil pan. I turned back to the wheels which I was having powder coated silver from a local shop I have used in the past. I must have told him to make them look new as they are more aluminum colored versus a metallic silver which is what I wanted. Still, I took the wheels with some 275/45r20 Bridgestone Alenza tires. I thought they would have a wider look than the old Nexen Rodians but they dont. I did not want to go too wide on the tire as the wheel is already pushing it with a 265 in my opinion. I am going to wait to put the engine back in until after I get the replacement oil pan. There is BARELY enough room to get at all of the pan bolts looking at the front differential location. I also order a new starter and driverside mount heat shield as they were missing when I removed the old engine. From afar they look almost white versus silver. They are not metallic. Sandblasting the wheels and throwing on the coat only "barely" filled in some of the rough spots. I plan on getting newer wheels later.
This vehicle was neglected in the snow areas. Thankfully, there is no serious rust on the body. The wheels were neglected. People just dont care I guess until its a problem.
Today it was cold and rainy so I decided what better time to pull off my intake and install the 6.1 Hemi intake on my 6.4L swapped Durango.
I had to make a new fuel line to reach the other side. I wanted to have the nylon style tubing like OEM but had to settle for 100 psi fuel injector hose fitted to a 90degree and straight out fitting. I did get fuel line hose clamps - not typical worm clamps as I had one of those leak once. I have litterally only used Walmart and CircleK 93 octane fuel and when I pulled the intake after 2000+ miles. I was greeted to this slimy syruplike substance inside EACH port. The fuel spray seems to clean some of it, but it was very pronounced. I wanted to use the standoff's on the fuel rail so that I could attach the 392 halfcovers I have. The 6.1 intake uses standard bolts whereas the plastic uses "wood" style screws. These injectors are for a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 according to amazon.... They are the same size and shape as the orange capped stock units. I got P0172/P0175 with the plastic manifold. I got these hardened plastic spacers that came with new gaskets. I "sured" the gaskets up with some RTV adhesive and sat the manifold on bricks to help with curing and alignment. Just a glamour shot. I finally did it. I broke one of the clips (red security tabs) on the injector clip. I will repair them later as for now I just need to know if this was going to work. It works. Unfortunately, I had to return to the 80mm TB because that 90mm one is possessed. It was working but then suddenly I get rough idle and barely made it home.
6.4 intake would've been a better choice. Flow wise the Eagle 5.7 intake was shown to be on par with the 6.1 intake without the heat soak (this was a swap that some people did back after the eagle came out). The car 392 intake has been proven to be the best OEM intake. Same size TB is used for all 5.7's and 6.4's; why would you think your stock 6.4 would need any more air lol?
Got these spacers to help isolate heat from direct touching. A hard carbon/plastic material. I can go crazy on throttle and my IAT's are pretty low outside of the temps being below 40F and lower where I am at.
I have been using the stock 5.7L intake for some time now but I am "feeling" much better on the 6.1L over it. I know the 6.4L intake should go with a 6.4L engine but I am far from a rich man, and I only paid $450 for this intake. I couldn't pass on it.
The air... I had a 2008 Dodge Charger SRT8 and it was everything everyone says about it. It saddened me that after I sold it, some kid tried to move a tree with the front of the car. My 6.4L build was to get as much air into it as possible as I am already at a disadvantage over the standard 392 hemi. My RAM 2500 BGE Hemi, does not have the compression. I did put a 2012 Jeep SRT8 spec camshaft (stock) in. I do not have the active intake (1100+ for used intake parts seems excessive). I do not have the exhaust (semi shorty headers that SRT Durango's get). With all of that, I driving the heck out of this thing and loving every minute. Swapping did improve my fuel economy for what its worth. I did have to use the 80mm ETB (I know about the other hemi's). With the 90, it sure did sound impressive on launch but the one I have was VERY cheap and I do not thing the motor inside of it can keep up with throttle input requests. BBK was 300+ for their ETB's... It's something I want to do.