How to Test Output Voltage in 7 pin -2016 Ram
Hi, New Member
I have a horse trailer I've been towing with my 2018 Ram 2500 Hemi for 5 years.
Until recently the rear brakes on horse trailer were locking up.
Trailer has been through maintenance, replaced brakes, drums, etc. Still have a 'catch' on right rear brakes and scalding new tires.
It has been suggested that the Ram is putting out too much voltage? How can I check to see if it is my truck?
Thanks.
I have a horse trailer I've been towing with my 2018 Ram 2500 Hemi for 5 years.
Until recently the rear brakes on horse trailer were locking up.
Trailer has been through maintenance, replaced brakes, drums, etc. Still have a 'catch' on right rear brakes and scalding new tires.
It has been suggested that the Ram is putting out too much voltage? How can I check to see if it is my truck?
Thanks.
Last edited by Scootergal; Feb 1, 2023 at 09:07 AM.
it’s been suggested it’s my truck but not sure what or where to test. I j ow the pin is good as we tested it and not ground out
been hauling horses 30 years without issue
Ah. That might be a problem. 
I am unsure of how the electric brake controller actually controls the brakes, it might just give increasing voltage, the harder you step on the pedal, or, it might be pulse-width modulated..... if the latter case, I doubt you have the equipment to test that.... Think I would try with a volt meter first, preferably analog.... (the one with the needle, not the digital display) Red lead goes to the brake pin, black lead goes to a good ground. (I would think 20 volt scale would be good.) Have someone else slowly apply pressure to the brakes, see what voltage does.

I am unsure of how the electric brake controller actually controls the brakes, it might just give increasing voltage, the harder you step on the pedal, or, it might be pulse-width modulated..... if the latter case, I doubt you have the equipment to test that.... Think I would try with a volt meter first, preferably analog.... (the one with the needle, not the digital display) Red lead goes to the brake pin, black lead goes to a good ground. (I would think 20 volt scale would be good.) Have someone else slowly apply pressure to the brakes, see what voltage does.
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If it's only the right side trailer brakes that are having an issue, the problem is NOT with the truck (unless the left side trailer brakes are defective and not getting voltage).
On a prior travel trailer I was having an issue with the trailer brakes. The RV dealer claimed the issue was my truck and not the trailer. I knew that was bogus because my enclosed trailer had no issues. So I decided to take a look myself and discovered that one of the metal wire clips for the trailer brake magnet was incorrectly seated so that one of the "thorns" was piercing the wire insulation and every so often shorting the brake wire to ground. I'd suspect something similar happening with your trailer.
For a quick test, do you happen to have access to another trailer with trailer brakes that you can connect to and see how it behaves? Also, does your horse trailer have an emergency brake pin switch and associated battery? Have you checked the function of that battery and the emergency trailer brake switch?
If the wires for the brakes are getting "scalding" I'm surprised they are not blowing a fuse for the truck's brake controller....
-Rod
On a prior travel trailer I was having an issue with the trailer brakes. The RV dealer claimed the issue was my truck and not the trailer. I knew that was bogus because my enclosed trailer had no issues. So I decided to take a look myself and discovered that one of the metal wire clips for the trailer brake magnet was incorrectly seated so that one of the "thorns" was piercing the wire insulation and every so often shorting the brake wire to ground. I'd suspect something similar happening with your trailer.
For a quick test, do you happen to have access to another trailer with trailer brakes that you can connect to and see how it behaves? Also, does your horse trailer have an emergency brake pin switch and associated battery? Have you checked the function of that battery and the emergency trailer brake switch?
If the wires for the brakes are getting "scalding" I'm surprised they are not blowing a fuse for the truck's brake controller....
-Rod
I have wondered if the problem is the horse trailers wiring. I blew a tire so hard it wrapped around the fender. it was initially evaluated, inspected and new tires put on everything appeared fine. After leaving horse maintenance company I felt the right side “dragging” then locked up when I was making a slow turn almost home 1.5 hours later
next stop was to different trailer place and have ALL brakes drums bearings replaced. Which were sorely needed and not replaced at first trailer place
after their repair I could not duplicate a lock up no matter how hard I tried before I left with it.
I was driving it to put on consignment and heard the dreaded thump thump. 2 flat spots on new tire. I never felt it lock up while driving. Just a light consistent “push” from behind
Took back to trailer place who did Brakes and they drove it with their personal truck and said it was fine and that it’s my truck.
I’m stumped. I want to sell the trailer. But I want it safe for someone else.
yes I want to buy another trailer but they will not let you test drive. I have no other 30 foot gooseneck to try out.
I wonder if the blow out was due to the wiring. At 60 mph loaded with horses lucky not catastrophic
if I were to test the pin in my truck what should the voltage be ? If that’s correct must be wiring
next stop was to different trailer place and have ALL brakes drums bearings replaced. Which were sorely needed and not replaced at first trailer place
after their repair I could not duplicate a lock up no matter how hard I tried before I left with it.
I was driving it to put on consignment and heard the dreaded thump thump. 2 flat spots on new tire. I never felt it lock up while driving. Just a light consistent “push” from behind
Took back to trailer place who did Brakes and they drove it with their personal truck and said it was fine and that it’s my truck.
I’m stumped. I want to sell the trailer. But I want it safe for someone else.
yes I want to buy another trailer but they will not let you test drive. I have no other 30 foot gooseneck to try out.
I wonder if the blow out was due to the wiring. At 60 mph loaded with horses lucky not catastrophic
if I were to test the pin in my truck what should the voltage be ? If that’s correct must be wiring










