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2010 Ram A/C Evaporator

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Old Jun 4, 2024 | 04:03 PM
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I need to replace my A/C Evaporator Core. OEM is $370. After market is $60. Huge difference in price. Does anyone have an experience or thought as to which to go with? Since it's a really big job, I'm leaning towards OEM and will probably replace the heater core while in there as well as the firewall blend door actuator which is clicking.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 08:06 AM
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You pay a LOT for that 'genuine mopar' sticker on the part, but, ostensibly, you are getting a higher quality part for the money. Is it worth THAT much more though???? I mean, seriously, there just isn't that much to an evap core.... Granted, it is NOT in an easy to access location. So, doing it ONCE, is definitely a priority. On you if you really want to spend the money. Might take a gander at one of the aftermarket fellers at your local auto parts stores, and see what ya think.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 07:12 PM
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You're waffling, just like me. Tough decision. New fishing reel and aftermarket evaporator or OEM evaporator period. I think it comes down to a coin flip. Thanks for your reply.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Crabman
I need to replace my A/C Evaporator Core. OEM is $370. After market is $60. Huge difference in price. Does anyone have an experience or thought as to which to go with? Since it's a really big job, I'm leaning towards OEM and will probably replace the heater core while in there as well as the firewall blend door actuator which is clicking.
I use four seasons products, never had an issue that id complain about, did the heater core and evaporator in my 06 this winter, along with drier and orifice tube line. So far its the coldest a/c I've ever experienced. Blowing 40* air with 80* ambient.

Definitely would not feel the pressure to use OEM on this type of product. Lots of aftermarkets are probably building the OEM products they put mopar stickers on any way
 
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 12:54 PM
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Thanks DT2. This is my first AC Evaporator job but I'm not concerned with my abilities to do the job. I'm considering doing the heater core also. Why did you do the drier and orifice tube? Are they parts that fail and you did it as preventive maintenance? Any other suggestions appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Crabman
Thanks DT2. This is my first AC Evaporator job but I'm not concerned with my abilities to do the job. I'm considering doing the heater core also. Why did you do the drier and orifice tube? Are they parts that fail and you did it as preventive maintenance? Any other suggestions appreciated.
They are maintenance items more or less, I make habit of anytime i have the system open replace. They're mildly inexpensive and to have an ice cold A/C when I'm done is worth every penny. The drier is vistem to atmospheric moisture anytime the system is open. Make sure to have it capped if not replacing while the system is open.

Most of these 3rd gen trucks they're half rusted through by the time I see em. I've had two system failures due to rusted driers. The systems drained replace it.

One thing to consider is the drier does hold a good amount of a/c system oil. When replacing the drier its good to replace the oil charge slightly. Even drain the drier to have a rough idea how much you may have lost. The evap and condenser can also catch oil as well as the compressor so it impossible to know where the system is at for overall charge unless you replace everything new. An A/C reclaimer will catch the oil pulled out with the freon/vac test so if you are using one of those you can know more how much oil you removed in the discharge process also.

I'm not saying I'm right, I'm saying the theory I use is unless its a full system rebuild or you have proof of how much oil was removed, don't recharge a system with more than half the recommend oil amount. To much oil effects cooling performance, to little affects compressor wear, but having some in there is better than nothing,
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 12:50 PM
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Thank you DT2. Your write-up is very helpful.
 
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