Got a call from AEM today about my truck on the dyno
Here is a normal report.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=155367
No silica content listed.
Good report with 17K on the oil,
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=262277
17K on one oil change? Info is useless to compare to.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=148267
What air filter does he use?
Its a little hard to find good reports, people dont post when there isnt a problem.
Here is a sample with high iron but normal silica and bearing metals.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=289228
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=155367
No silica content listed.
Good report with 17K on the oil,
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=262277
17K on one oil change? Info is useless to compare to.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=148267
What air filter does he use?
Its a little hard to find good reports, people dont post when there isnt a problem.
Here is a sample with high iron but normal silica and bearing metals.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=289228
Again, give me real proof, not a bunch of random oil tests.
Gas engines are built to withstand high rpms and low compression ratios. Diesel engines are low revving with high compression ratios. They are very different.
My point is this. Don't come in here with all kinds of random information and bash K&N filters because of some random diesel guys and their oil tests.
The trucks are different.
The driving conditions are different.
The air filters are different.
The tests are done at different facilities.
The oil is different.
The mileage and time amounts on the oil is different.
There are too many variables for any of the information to be conclusive.
The trucks are different.
The driving conditions are different.
The air filters are different.
The tests are done at different facilities.
The oil is different.
The mileage and time amounts on the oil is different.
There are too many variables for any of the information to be conclusive.
Last edited by sarguy01; Jun 7, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
I've used K&N filters for years and never had any issues other than an increase in gas mileage. My 98 Neon R/T gained 4 mpg with only a drop-in K&N. I don't know what it did for the Ram as I put one in the day I bought it.
True (to a point) that oil doesn't go bad. However, with gas and chemical changes to the oil from heating and "stuff" in the oil it breaks down and becomes corrosive. Ever see a pourous oil pan? That's what it's from. Also causes pitting in the rotating assembly. Not as much of an issue with fuel getting into the oil like carb engines but still some gets in there. Not good, that's why ALL manufactures have a time and mileage requirement to change oil.
My buddy takes his drag car there. My point was that serious dyno testing is done on a rig like that. Any aftermarket performance company that makes REAL performance parts (edelbrock, moroso, holley, etc.) is using a rig like that. Guys selling chromed dryer duct and cone filters are generally not doing any usefull testing to back up their HP claims.
I can tell you this: I will not run a k&n on any engine I want to last for a long time. By that I mean several hundred thousand miles. A number of times, I've personally seen diesel pickups with K&N filters have fine dirt in the intake tract. This can be seen by rubbing your finger around inside some part of the intake tract after the filter. Doing that with a stock filter or some other aftermarket filters does not result in any dirt appearing on the finger in question.
Diesel and gasoline engines are both alike in that ingesting dirt with the intake air is bad for them. There's no room for argument on this point, unless one wants to find himself in the position of explaining how worn piston rings are a good thing.
Again and again and again, diesel truck guys in the know will tell you that they will not run a k&n or similar filter for exactly that reason. If you don't need your engine to last as long as some of us truck guys do then a filter that lets by fine dust is probably ok. I mean that literally-I have some engines that I run a k&n filter on, knowing that they'll never be expected to last a terribly long time.
As a side note, I have 3 pieces of fairly expensive equipment I'm responsible for at work. I get the oil tested every 3 months (it gets changed once a month) and I look to the silicate levels to tell me how well the air filters are doing their job. So far I don't think we've had a silicate reading above 8 ppm, which is pretty good.
Diesel and gasoline engines are both alike in that ingesting dirt with the intake air is bad for them. There's no room for argument on this point, unless one wants to find himself in the position of explaining how worn piston rings are a good thing.
Again and again and again, diesel truck guys in the know will tell you that they will not run a k&n or similar filter for exactly that reason. If you don't need your engine to last as long as some of us truck guys do then a filter that lets by fine dust is probably ok. I mean that literally-I have some engines that I run a k&n filter on, knowing that they'll never be expected to last a terribly long time.
As a side note, I have 3 pieces of fairly expensive equipment I'm responsible for at work. I get the oil tested every 3 months (it gets changed once a month) and I look to the silicate levels to tell me how well the air filters are doing their job. So far I don't think we've had a silicate reading above 8 ppm, which is pretty good.
Here is proof right from the mouths of Mopar. This is the way they advertise their CAI
Item Details:
• Provides a deeper and more "throaty" intake sound
• Utilizes a complete hardware kit with soft mounts for a perfect fit
• Cold air intake kits include all necessary mounting hardware
• Image May Not Be Exact
• Available for 2009 Dodge Ram With 5.7L Hemi Engine
• Mopar Performance Parts are sold as is, with no warranty
• Mopar Performance Parts are Non-Returnable
• Mopar Performance Orders Can Not be Cancelled Once Ordered
I only see something about improved sound, for 400 plus bucks...improved sound, that's it, no mention of hp increased, no returns, no cancellations LOL I would spend 400 on having the paint wet sanded and polished and waxed to get rid of some little crap and the orange peel. Or better yet keep it for the summer increase in gas prices.
Item Details:
• Provides a deeper and more "throaty" intake sound
• Utilizes a complete hardware kit with soft mounts for a perfect fit
• Cold air intake kits include all necessary mounting hardware
• Image May Not Be Exact
• Available for 2009 Dodge Ram With 5.7L Hemi Engine
• Mopar Performance Parts are sold as is, with no warranty
• Mopar Performance Parts are Non-Returnable
• Mopar Performance Orders Can Not be Cancelled Once Ordered
I only see something about improved sound, for 400 plus bucks...improved sound, that's it, no mention of hp increased, no returns, no cancellations LOL I would spend 400 on having the paint wet sanded and polished and waxed to get rid of some little crap and the orange peel. Or better yet keep it for the summer increase in gas prices.
With different brands of filters your going to see different statistics...its not just K&N Vs Paper...
K&N may retrict less therefore filter less...more air allowed past (judge your own driving conditions and deem this acceptable or not)
AirHog does NOT make the high horsepower gains K&N do but they do show an increase in filtration over stock types (These are oiled filters as well w/ a dual cotton content)
I went through this all at SEMA one year and everyone says something different...Cool Blue,K&N,Airaid,FRAM etc..
then get into different paper filters such as a cheapo brand to a FRAM HD style...
Filter choices are VAST, First thing everyone needs to figure out is
1.) WHERE do I drive (dust,debris, etc)
2.) WHAT do I expect from this? (Performance or more filtration for example)
3.) HOW Often do I acutally service my truck or filter for that matter
Ive used Airaid and K&N and DO notice a heavier filtration value w/ Airaid however K&N are great for more performance orientated builds. Ive also tested 2 identical trucks (11 vin's apart and same color) one with a cold air and one without...COLD AIR won the race (then we installed the latter) Same...THEN I did one with the Airaid TB spacer...Guess which truck pulled again (its slight but at highway speeds I was a car lenth) installed the latter and SAME AGAIN (This test was done with 2 2004 Hemi Durango LTD's -- My Dad's and Mine) Then we did Catbacks...same drill. I couldn't care about some Dyno Ive SEEN the results.
Plus After doing this business for over a DECADE Ive only seen ONE! issue with Oil types and that was a WELDER with a fresh 383 Stroker 3500 Chev with over 200k MILES on the truck whining his compression went down after 3 months with a K&N....Sounds like a crappy 383 build to me but hey who am I to judge..
Ive also seen K&N's come in SO PLUGGED I was surprised the vehicle ran...Great performance...but who's fault was that?
Don't even get me started with how may papers Ive seen plugged..
99% of the time the problem is between the SEAT and the STEERING WHEEL!!
All Filters claim as brand new but what happens after that is not in they're control.
Thats my 2 bits
K&N may retrict less therefore filter less...more air allowed past (judge your own driving conditions and deem this acceptable or not)
AirHog does NOT make the high horsepower gains K&N do but they do show an increase in filtration over stock types (These are oiled filters as well w/ a dual cotton content)
I went through this all at SEMA one year and everyone says something different...Cool Blue,K&N,Airaid,FRAM etc..
then get into different paper filters such as a cheapo brand to a FRAM HD style...
Filter choices are VAST, First thing everyone needs to figure out is
1.) WHERE do I drive (dust,debris, etc)
2.) WHAT do I expect from this? (Performance or more filtration for example)
3.) HOW Often do I acutally service my truck or filter for that matter
Ive used Airaid and K&N and DO notice a heavier filtration value w/ Airaid however K&N are great for more performance orientated builds. Ive also tested 2 identical trucks (11 vin's apart and same color) one with a cold air and one without...COLD AIR won the race (then we installed the latter) Same...THEN I did one with the Airaid TB spacer...Guess which truck pulled again (its slight but at highway speeds I was a car lenth) installed the latter and SAME AGAIN (This test was done with 2 2004 Hemi Durango LTD's -- My Dad's and Mine) Then we did Catbacks...same drill. I couldn't care about some Dyno Ive SEEN the results.
Plus After doing this business for over a DECADE Ive only seen ONE! issue with Oil types and that was a WELDER with a fresh 383 Stroker 3500 Chev with over 200k MILES on the truck whining his compression went down after 3 months with a K&N....Sounds like a crappy 383 build to me but hey who am I to judge..
Ive also seen K&N's come in SO PLUGGED I was surprised the vehicle ran...Great performance...but who's fault was that?
Don't even get me started with how may papers Ive seen plugged..
99% of the time the problem is between the SEAT and the STEERING WHEEL!!

All Filters claim as brand new but what happens after that is not in they're control.Thats my 2 bits
If you want to help prove that you filter is the best, go to this thread.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen-ram/203418-all-2009-owners-come-in-here-k-and-n-vs-paper-oil-vs-oil.html#post1695332
If my K&N turns out to be a piece of garbage, I will proudly announce it.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen-ram/203418-all-2009-owners-come-in-here-k-and-n-vs-paper-oil-vs-oil.html#post1695332
If my K&N turns out to be a piece of garbage, I will proudly announce it.





