Wiring tweeters through rubber boot! >.<
Hey all, I'm currently installing a set of ALpine component speakers in the front and at the moment I'm trying to put in my tweeters in the dash. Where I'm really stuck is, how do I even get the wires from my tweeter to the front door speakers through that rubber boot?!?! I keep looking from the floorboard on the driver side and I can't even see the hole for that rubber boot.
If the passenger side is any different, I'd like to know how to get wires through there to the door also.
If the passenger side is any different, I'd like to know how to get wires through there to the door also.
Man I can't figure this out for the life of me
I can't even pull back the rubber boot just to see inside and familiarize myself, much less get wires from the door speakers to the tweeter positions in the dash.
I can't even pull back the rubber boot just to see inside and familiarize myself, much less get wires from the door speakers to the tweeter positions in the dash.
If the front doors are wired anything like the rear doors, the boot actually has a pigtail (wiring connector) on the cab end. Its not just wires run straight through the boot. In order to take it out, you'll have to locate the cab side connector and disconnect it.
I learned this while re-wiring my rear speakers (I had a fault-to-ground that was causing one of my rear speakers not to work). Hope this helps.
I learned this while re-wiring my rear speakers (I had a fault-to-ground that was causing one of my rear speakers not to work). Hope this helps.
I would have mounted them behind the head unit most likely. You simply cut the speaker wires behind the radio run the deck outputs into the crossover inputs.. then send the woofer outputs through the OEM wiring that goes into the door. This can also be done at the kickpanel or other location where the speaker wires can be easily accessed. Then you just run new speaker wire to the tweets you are mounting in the dash.
I pretty much avoid crossovers in the door at all costs... water + copper components that aren't sealed equals fail.
Now this also all depends on what comp sets they are as well. Depending on how the crossover is set up that can be either harder or easier. This also is counting on the assumption that the OEM system was not infinity. In that case you would have to do all this at the factory amp.
I pretty much avoid crossovers in the door at all costs... water + copper components that aren't sealed equals fail.
Now this also all depends on what comp sets they are as well. Depending on how the crossover is set up that can be either harder or easier. This also is counting on the assumption that the OEM system was not infinity. In that case you would have to do all this at the factory amp.
Trending Topics
I would have mounted them behind the head unit most likely. You simply cut the speaker wires behind the radio run the deck outputs into the crossover inputs.. then send the woofer outputs through the OEM wiring that goes into the door. This can also be done at the kickpanel or other location where the speaker wires can be easily accessed. Then you just run new speaker wire to the tweets you are mounting in the dash.
I pretty much avoid crossovers in the door at all costs... water + copper components that aren't sealed equals fail.
Now this also all depends on what comp sets they are as well. Depending on how the crossover is set up that can be either harder or easier. This also is counting on the assumption that the OEM system was not infinity. In that case you would have to do all this at the factory amp.
I pretty much avoid crossovers in the door at all costs... water + copper components that aren't sealed equals fail.
Now this also all depends on what comp sets they are as well. Depending on how the crossover is set up that can be either harder or easier. This also is counting on the assumption that the OEM system was not infinity. In that case you would have to do all this at the factory amp.
No infinity system, speakers were Alpine sps-600c. I accidentally cracked off a plastic tab from each rubber boot on the front doors, so the driver door boot is now sorta loose
A tab also broke off from the dash piece connectors. Used a coat hanger and tons of time and frustration to get the tweeter wiring through that damn boot, and widened an empty hole on the white molex connector in there to pass the wires through. Had to cut off the wire connectors to pass it through that stupid molex, then put new ones on once it was through to the doors.I couldn't find a way to get the tweeter wiring to the boot from the cab either, so I made a small slit in the foam looking wall and passed the wire through that to the boot.
The tweeters were small and I didn't have any material to make an adapter plate from, so I managed to screw the tweeter height adjustment brackets to the dash piece where the infinity tweeters would normally go, and glued the tweeters to those brackets...lol
All in all it works right now, I just feel it was a ****ty job since I broke some tabs and permanently glued actual speakers. Could I have just spliced the tweeter wiring with the crossovers to the stock speaker wiring in the cab, instead of sending it all the way to the woofers??
the s series crossovers are just speaker caps basically.. coulda just mounted the mids in the door like normal.. and then ran speaker wire from the deck up to the dash where you were gonna mount the tweeters.. then connected the "crossover" to that and the tweeter.
Unfortunately you made the job way harder lol. But glad to hear you got it working
even if they were legit crossovers you could have put them behind the deck... tricks of the trade you learn when doing custom installs professionally for a few years.
Unfortunately you made the job way harder lol. But glad to hear you got it working
even if they were legit crossovers you could have put them behind the deck... tricks of the trade you learn when doing custom installs professionally for a few years.






