im running 2 JL 12w6v2's with a 1000 kenwood amp. Everything is hooked up snazzy and im ground is defiantly connected firmly and should be defiantly doing its job. I cant remember how big gage of wire i have its inbetween 2-4 gage. But anywho when the bass gets too intense the amp pops out its fuse, i think im upgrading to a jl amp but i would like to know why its being so difficult. thanks!

 

Need to know AMP model number (kenwood makes more than one 1000 watt amp)
and how it's subs are wired single channel two channel Ect Ect

likely you might have too low resistantance then the amps rated for

 

im pretty sure its single when i get home ill find a model number

 

Kenwood KAC-8101D and I'm running two channels

 

poor connections, bad grounds, bad amps will all blow fuses when bass hits because it pulls more current when doing so.

 

ya im pretty sure its the amp its pretty old and had a hard life before it was in my hands. I can still get lots of bass out of them but not to the subs full potential

 

That amp is a mono amp. Even though it has 2 different positive and negative connectors for the subs, both +'s and -'s are actually the same within the amp. Just look at it as if its internally bridged. It is stable to play down to a 2ohm resistance.

Those subs, are typically dual voice coil, but come in differnt models with different coil resistances. Depending on how they are wired, you are likely getting below a 2 ohm load on the amp. The amp may be fine with this at low to moderate levels, but it will get VERY hot, quickly. But at a little higher level the fuse will blow as the amp is trying to pull too much current and you actually risk damage to the amp.

Best way to test would be to get the resistance of the voice coils. Pull one of the subs out of the box and get the exact model number. It will look something like 12W6V2-D2 ( or -D4). The last number is the resistance of each coil. Can maybe figure out a way to wire it so it doesn't blow fuses if we have this number.

Or could also be the amp just giving out.

 

They are D4s. And I may also mention I am now running a jl slash 1000/1 for the moment but it has a hooched switched so it keeps trying to go from 12db to 24db making a pop. So if I can make that Kenwood work for awhile while I figure out the jl one it would be great. Thanks

 

If they are D4's that meand dual, 4ohm voice coils. If each sub has both +'s connected together, and -'s connected together, thats 2 ohms per sub. If you wire each sub together + to + speaker input on amp and - to - speaker input on the amp thats a 1 ohm load at the amp. The amp can not safely handle that and it will blow fuses.

I am going to assume you have 2 speaker wire pairs going to the amp, 1 pair for each sub. Try this. Take your left speaker wire (wires to the left sub) and connect only the + lead to the amp. Take the right side sups speaker wire and connect only the - to the amp. Take the - lead from the first sub and connect it to the left over + lead from the 2nd sub. This creates a 4 ohm load which the amp can safely handle, and it does drop the power output.

Now on that JL slash amp, it puts out the same power at anything from like 8 to 1.5 ohm loads. So this same wiring configuration should work on it without any loss in power, and it will not run as hot.

If the subs in the box are not connected + to + and - to - then we can change the wiring up some to get the same effect.

 

Alright I'll try that out today with both amps see if she fixes my issue