Charger SRT8 Questions
HP increases on the SRT8 depend on common sense factors. The more air flow into the engine and out the exhaust makes more horsepower. The "cold air induction" argument is one that is kind of funny. The SRT folks built that into the design. When you remove the air box from the vehicle, look straight down in the space it was removed from. The big hole down there is directly tied into the front where the incoming air is ported to cool the front driver's side brake rotor. This means the cold air from the outside front on the vehicle is ported directly into the factory box. The only improvement is getting a less restrictive filter such as a K&N to replace the stock filter. Other improvements to air flow is to put on ported and polished heads, change to long tube headers, high flow cats and 3" exhaust to the back - Zoomers are the best as they are designed to have a venturi effect on the exhaust line the faster the vehicle goes. Also a stage 1 or 2 Comp Cam will work well to increase air flow. From there leave the stock engine control computer in place or go with a B&G. This one has modified fuel tables and has deleted the 420 and 430 codes. The engine control computer is a self learning algorythm that self modifies fuel pressure, injector pulse width, etc to obtain the right fuel/air mix based on the front O2 sensors and mass air flow. After 400 - 500 miles the system has completely relearned. Stock 6.1dyno averages 365rwhp. The mods mentioned above will push it to about 440-450rwhp and stage 2 cam to about 490.
ORIGINAL: best210
anyone have the airaid throttle body spacer just bought one havent put it on car yet along with my airaid cai
anyone have the airaid throttle body spacer just bought one havent put it on car yet along with my airaid cai
waste of money
ORIGINAL: rmh996
HP increases on the SRT8 depend on common sense factors. The more air flow into the engine and out the exhaust makes more horsepower. The "cold air induction" argument is one that is kind of funny. The SRT folks built that into the design. When you remove the air box from the vehicle, look straight down in the space it was removed from. The big hole down there is directly tied into the front where the incoming air is ported to cool the front driver's side brake rotor. This means the cold air from the outside front on the vehicle is ported directly into the factory box. The only improvement is getting a less restrictive filter such as a K&N to replace the stock filter. Other improvements to air flow is to put on ported and polished heads, change to long tube headers, high flow cats and 3" exhaust to the back - Zoomers are the best as they are designed to have a venturi effect on the exhaust line the faster the vehicle goes. Also a stage 1 or 2 Comp Cam will work well to increase air flow. From there leave the stock engine control computer in place or go with a B&G. This one has modified fuel tables and has deleted the 420 and 430 codes. The engine control computer is a self learning algorythm that self modifies fuel pressure, injector pulse width, etc to obtain the right fuel/air mix based on the front O2 sensors and mass air flow. After 400 - 500 miles the system has completely relearned. Stock 6.1dyno averages 365rwhp. The mods mentioned above will push it to about 440-450rwhp and stage 2 cam to about 490.
HP increases on the SRT8 depend on common sense factors. The more air flow into the engine and out the exhaust makes more horsepower. The "cold air induction" argument is one that is kind of funny. The SRT folks built that into the design. When you remove the air box from the vehicle, look straight down in the space it was removed from. The big hole down there is directly tied into the front where the incoming air is ported to cool the front driver's side brake rotor. This means the cold air from the outside front on the vehicle is ported directly into the factory box. The only improvement is getting a less restrictive filter such as a K&N to replace the stock filter. Other improvements to air flow is to put on ported and polished heads, change to long tube headers, high flow cats and 3" exhaust to the back - Zoomers are the best as they are designed to have a venturi effect on the exhaust line the faster the vehicle goes. Also a stage 1 or 2 Comp Cam will work well to increase air flow. From there leave the stock engine control computer in place or go with a B&G. This one has modified fuel tables and has deleted the 420 and 430 codes. The engine control computer is a self learning algorythm that self modifies fuel pressure, injector pulse width, etc to obtain the right fuel/air mix based on the front O2 sensors and mass air flow. After 400 - 500 miles the system has completely relearned. Stock 6.1dyno averages 365rwhp. The mods mentioned above will push it to about 440-450rwhp and stage 2 cam to about 490.
I have the K&N installed. Yup, it really does have a throaty sound, more like at the track sound. lol
I am looking to get a chromed pipe. You will enjoy the extra deep sound, and do will your 6.1. It needs it.
You might want to look into the Magnaflow exhaust too. Very sweet souding.
[IMG]local://upfiles/71292/ADAAD89358ED440F8C2280E624F12AA7.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/71292/C3E161B61ABA487192B9D80748A237B5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/71292/4F33F76BBEFB4594844BB4D3A872365C.jpg[/IMG]
I am looking to get a chromed pipe. You will enjoy the extra deep sound, and do will your 6.1. It needs it.
You might want to look into the Magnaflow exhaust too. Very sweet souding.
[IMG]local://upfiles/71292/ADAAD89358ED440F8C2280E624F12AA7.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/71292/C3E161B61ABA487192B9D80748A237B5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/71292/4F33F76BBEFB4594844BB4D3A872365C.jpg[/IMG]


