What is the best!
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From:
The original poster wanted to know about spray detailers which is a way to give a crisp.
For the maximum possible showroom (or better than new) look, you obviously have to prep the paint before applying glazes, waxes, or sealants. The first step is to wash the vehicle, clay to remove contaminants (what makes the paint feel bumpy), polish using an abrasive polish if you have swirls or marring (caused poor wash techniques), and then apply your favorite wax or sealant (many choices, many will give great results). The paint condition (free of defects mentioned above) will really determine the final shine more than the wax or sealant.
The products you use depends on how much effort you want to put into improving the looks.
To keep the good looks, you need to use good wash/dry techniques: hand wash no drive thru wash places, bucket full of good wash soap mixed properly (Mothers or Meg's Gold Class are good ones), second rinse bucket for extra protection, lamb's wool wash mitts, and microfiber drying towels.
Wash from the top down and do not use a lot of pressure. This is where many people mess up. The damage done by poor washing does not show up instantly but gradually so your vehicle may not look bad for some time.
For the maximum possible showroom (or better than new) look, you obviously have to prep the paint before applying glazes, waxes, or sealants. The first step is to wash the vehicle, clay to remove contaminants (what makes the paint feel bumpy), polish using an abrasive polish if you have swirls or marring (caused poor wash techniques), and then apply your favorite wax or sealant (many choices, many will give great results). The paint condition (free of defects mentioned above) will really determine the final shine more than the wax or sealant.
The products you use depends on how much effort you want to put into improving the looks.
To keep the good looks, you need to use good wash/dry techniques: hand wash no drive thru wash places, bucket full of good wash soap mixed properly (Mothers or Meg's Gold Class are good ones), second rinse bucket for extra protection, lamb's wool wash mitts, and microfiber drying towels.
Wash from the top down and do not use a lot of pressure. This is where many people mess up. The damage done by poor washing does not show up instantly but gradually so your vehicle may not look bad for some time.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Allen,tx
Oh hell no I don't do that everytime I wash the truck, I wash the truck every 1-2 days!
That is a good amount of prep, that will allow you to be able to simply wash the truck, and use a synthetic detail spray and allow you to keep the extreme smooth/slick condition.
I honestly prefer the gloss-it detail spray over the zaino, which I wouldn't put a candle to in regards to another other company on the market.
That is a good amount of prep, that will allow you to be able to simply wash the truck, and use a synthetic detail spray and allow you to keep the extreme smooth/slick condition.
I honestly prefer the gloss-it detail spray over the zaino, which I wouldn't put a candle to in regards to another other company on the market.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Allen,tx
The original poster wanted to know about spray detailers which is a way to give a crisp.
For the maximum possible showroom (or better than new) look, you obviously have to prep the paint before applying glazes, waxes, or sealants. The first step is to wash the vehicle, clay to remove contaminants (what makes the paint feel bumpy), polish using an abrasive polish if you have swirls or marring (caused poor wash techniques), and then apply your favorite wax or sealant (many choices, many will give great results). The paint condition (free of defects mentioned above) will really determine the final shine more than the wax or sealant.
The products you use depends on how much effort you want to put into improving the looks.
To keep the good looks, you need to use good wash/dry techniques: hand wash no drive thru wash places, bucket full of good wash soap mixed properly (Mothers or Meg's Gold Class are good ones), second rinse bucket for extra protection, lamb's wool wash mitts, and microfiber drying towels.
Wash from the top down and do not use a lot of pressure. This is where many people mess up. The damage done by poor washing does not show up instantly but gradually so your vehicle may not look bad for some time.
For the maximum possible showroom (or better than new) look, you obviously have to prep the paint before applying glazes, waxes, or sealants. The first step is to wash the vehicle, clay to remove contaminants (what makes the paint feel bumpy), polish using an abrasive polish if you have swirls or marring (caused poor wash techniques), and then apply your favorite wax or sealant (many choices, many will give great results). The paint condition (free of defects mentioned above) will really determine the final shine more than the wax or sealant.
The products you use depends on how much effort you want to put into improving the looks.
To keep the good looks, you need to use good wash/dry techniques: hand wash no drive thru wash places, bucket full of good wash soap mixed properly (Mothers or Meg's Gold Class are good ones), second rinse bucket for extra protection, lamb's wool wash mitts, and microfiber drying towels.
Wash from the top down and do not use a lot of pressure. This is where many people mess up. The damage done by poor washing does not show up instantly but gradually so your vehicle may not look bad for some time.
Water temperature also plays a big role in how these chemicals react also. A car wash is the harshest environment your vehicle will endure, a lot of friction, etc. Most almost every automated car wash in todays world will use a neoprene application, which relates to the softness of a shammy. All of which are LOW pressure, and the chemicals, ph, water softeners do the work, where as a hand wash, the mit does the work.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Allen,tx
gahh, the yellow truck needs some body work when ever it gets back from florida, the silver truck, that paint was pure, and the metalic in the paint REALLY popped. I just heard today that the owner bought a throttle body spacer.. Yak, the 4.7 already had a 70mm on it when I sold it. Sometimes selling your truck, really comes back and haunts you.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Allen,tx
You guys want to know something simple and easy to use to allow a smooth clear coat.. Look to your buddy, corn starch.. Yes corn starch..
To sum things up, here is a link from the archives.
http://autos.aol.com/forum/topic/bfa...73fff31fd563aa
To sum things up, here is a link from the archives.
http://autos.aol.com/forum/topic/bfa...73fff31fd563aa
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 3
From: Kekaha, HI
LOL, thats why I couldn't sell mine. The new owner would try to lift it and make a 4x4 or something, lol.
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From:
That is wrong, the worst way to wash your vehicle is by hand washing, your applying the same suds/dirt back into the paint, and working them into the paint as you apply pressure with a mit. A drive thru is the best, as they use a pre-soak, which applies a high and a low ph, one for man made, one for natural objects. Tar, bugs, tree sap, etc, this also makes the paint surface neutral which prevents fuzz etc from sticking to the paint when you dry it.
Water temperature also plays a big role in how these chemicals react also. A car wash is the harshest environment your vehicle will endure, a lot of friction, etc. Most almost every automated car wash in todays world will use a neoprene application, which relates to the softness of a shammy. All of which are LOW pressure, and the chemicals, ph, water softeners do the work, where as a hand wash, the mit does the work.
Water temperature also plays a big role in how these chemicals react also. A car wash is the harshest environment your vehicle will endure, a lot of friction, etc. Most almost every automated car wash in todays world will use a neoprene application, which relates to the softness of a shammy. All of which are LOW pressure, and the chemicals, ph, water softeners do the work, where as a hand wash, the mit does the work.
Last edited by Bunky; Jul 10, 2009 at 07:08 PM.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Allen,tx
if you have treated water, a way to foam the paint surface, go ahead and hand wash it. 99% of the general public, that will take a bucket, a cloth, and some dawn soap and hand wash, yeah that is horrible. The 1% of the world that has the necessary items, yes doing a foam bath if you will, is softer on your paint than a automated wash.
Not all car wash owners and operators will vouch against a hand wash, it's an easy ticket and a way to charge a lot for a simple procedure, I can tell, I will not do a hand wash, I do not have all the necessary items off to the side, which I do on the line.
I also agree that all car washes arn't the same, that is very true. The fact that is costs around 30-50 cents to send the car through minus labor, is where most companies try to cut their margin. I on the other hand, would rather spend the .10 more per car, and be able to say I am one of the largest volume washes, and run the most detail in the south west.
Not all car wash owners and operators will vouch against a hand wash, it's an easy ticket and a way to charge a lot for a simple procedure, I can tell, I will not do a hand wash, I do not have all the necessary items off to the side, which I do on the line.
I also agree that all car washes arn't the same, that is very true. The fact that is costs around 30-50 cents to send the car through minus labor, is where most companies try to cut their margin. I on the other hand, would rather spend the .10 more per car, and be able to say I am one of the largest volume washes, and run the most detail in the south west.
