I owned a black ram a few years back..I always kept it clean but i dreaded waxing it bc i'd alwys end up with swirls in "the right light" well since then i've owned red and silver cars (easy to wax) but now i have a black ram again (they look so good when clean!)

anyone have a step by step method and waxes clay bars etc they use? thanks

 

Black is very hard to get right. I would use a dual-action orbitor polisher to put the wax on and off (claying will not leave swirls). Use a swirl removal polishing product after claying and before waxing to remove light swirls from the paint. Use a paint sealant and let it cure for 12 hours. Then apply the wax and remove with the D-A orbitor. I am not sure if the paint or the wax will leave swirls, but hopefully this will work,
FF

 

There are a number of online resources on how to properly detail your vehicle. Mothers, Meguiars, Adam's all have video's and guides on how to do everything using their products of course so there is always a sell job to some extent. Autogeek is another resource.

Most swirls are induced during the wash/drying process.

For washing, it is best to use the two bucket method (one soap,one rinse) working from the top down. Be sure to pre-wash to remove as much grit as possible. Do one section at a time but do not rub hard. You should use a wool mitt or microfiber mitt. Let it glide across the paint. Avoid terry cloth, sponges (some are ok) to be safe. Mix the soap to the right dilution. Meg's Gold Class or Mothers soap are good choices

After washing, use a slow stream (like take the sprayer off) to sheet as much water off as possible. Blot dry as much as possible. Use a microfiber towel to dry.

For waxing, first be sure it is clean. Use a foam (those little yellow ones) applicator since they will drag less than the more prevalent microfiber ones. Let it haze and then buff off. If you apply the waxing thinly, you should be able to remove with minimum pressure using a microfiber towel.

Net: Be sure to use microfiber when wiping (except for wax application) and be sure the surface is clean. Do not use a lot of pressure.

If you start to see swirls, there is something in your process (towel, mitt, etc) but getting a few light swirls is inevitable. Now, every new car may come with swirls since the dealer put them in. To remove them (if all over), you will need a dual action polisher and some appropriate abrasive polishes.

 

www.autogeek.net has alot of tips. I use sea sponges anr leather chamios as well as the two bucket method. Light swirls will happen, but can be polished out,
FF

 

I think many of us have come to the conclusion that wax on black paint is not a good idea. This business about claying and polishing is OK if you are trying to restore a paint job but if you just want to preserve what you got, Avoid the extremest measures, avoid unnecessary friction on your paint no matter what color.
Friction / abrasion destroys the original shine on your paint.
I know what some people say about wax but experience is the best teacher.
http://ibc34.com/ALIEN_LIQUID/

 

What people need to understand when you see posts against wax is they are not telling the full story.

For paint protection today, there are three basic products available on the market for the typical consumer:

1. carnauba wax based products - like Meg's Gold Class or Mothers Step 3
2. synthetic (no carnauba content) products - like Meg's NXT and Mothers Reflections or FX, Nu Finish
3. Hybrid products (synthetic and carnauba) - like Mothers Top Coat

In many cases (like Mothers and Meg's) they still call all the above "waxes" when the more precise word is that synthetic protection products are called sealants.

So what you have is a group that tries to paint a broad brush against "waxes" when they are selling a sealant themselves but just not calling it a wax.

Most sealants do offer longer protection (slickness, beading, etc) than a pure wax product but note that any pure wax only has at most 40% or so of wax since wax in its natural form is hard. They rest is products to make the wax soft and add other properties that sealants offer.

Some purists argue you cannot get that deep, wet look offered by a sealant (more about very high gloss) so people who are after protection and appearance often using a sealant base coat then a carnuaba wax topper. Also, wax based products seem to do better against bug and bird droppings.

The net is you to not need to look for some miracle coating because waxes are bad. Waxes do not harm paint. They do protection and offer an appearance. The most durable - usually not. There are plenty of sealants (called waxes) on the market.

 

To give you a basic run down, this is what i would do.

1. wash the entire truck, and make sure to get EVERY crook and cranny while washing, and dont use a car soap, i prefere to use dawn liquid soap as it will remove grease/wax and makes plenty of bubbles . make sure to get ALL the soap of the truck, but dont quite dry yet, go on to step

2. use a claybar over the entire truck, i prefere meguiars clay bar kit, it comes with a quick detail bottle and a nice microfiber cloth. go over the entire truck with it and rub a bit to make sure all dirt is out of the paint. and even though there is water left from washing, make sure to still spray a bit of the quick detail down. once finished with each section, dry with the microfiber cloth.

3. grab some meguires scratch X 2.0, this stuff works great, use it with a machine or by hand, whatever you do use a soft, terry cloth. rub the 2.0 in well and this will remove ALOT of scratches/swirls and even removes deep water spots. after rubbing in, wipe off with a microfiber towel.

4. Then either take your preference of polish or i like to use meguiars cleaner wax, the stuff smells great, lasts along time, and DOES work. if this is going to be done by hand, use a soft wax applicator. do a light coat over the entire truck and sit back and wait a while, take your finger and gently wipe over a bit of the wax on the truck, if you see paint with no wax residue behind, go on with using a very soft microfiber towel and wipe away. Buff to your desire!

5. Now use a good wax, synthetic or carnuabua. I like meguiars nxt gen 2.0 tech wax, this stuff when buffed good makes the paint look INCREDIBLY WET! Never seen another wax work and look so good. Use the supplied wax applicator and do the same as the polish/cleaner wax. And make sure you buff the paint well when done, otherwise you wont get the slick, wet look.

6. When washing, use a THICK, SOFT, washing mitt, no sponge what so ever. I like Meguiars Gold class wash as its Very thick and suds up well. only wash in the shade, try to wash on a cooler day, and constinaly keep body panels wet. You may wanna use the 2 bucket method but iv never have had a problem with just using a single bucket, but my durango rarely get's dirty at all, but im not sure if thats the case with your truck. When washing go over the panels lightly with lots of soap. also do wheels/tires first and wash panel by panel. I like meguires hot rims all wheel cleaner but dont have a peference on tire cleaner, but make sure to use a good soft brush for the rims and when rims are done get behind them well, and use a tough thick brissle brush for the tires. Grab a few CLEAN, Thick microfiber cloths and proceed on drying the entire truck and make sure everything is bone dry.

7. When done washing occasionaly use meguiars ultimate quick wax, and keep some detailer and a microfiber cloth in the car with you incase if you get any presents from birds lol.

I think i covered basically everything, i can give you some advice on interior/engine bay cleaning if you want. Good luck!

btw im not a meguiar employee lol, i just really like their products lol! here's there website, http://www.meguiars.com/estore/product_list.cfm

heres some vids on their site, http://www.meguiars.com/video/index.cfm

 

I agree with Your first point 100%.

I would avoid clay totally, Hot water and dawn will cut any wax and the debris imbedded in it off your paint.

Clay will only damage your finish with fine abrasive and force you to polish it and cover it with wax in a effort to get your shine back.

I would avoid organics like carnauba wax that will harden and decay and have to be removed.

All that cleaning, buffing, stripping, claying, polishing and re waxings is damaging to the paint and can be avoided by choosing a synthetic product that does not build up, decay, or have to be removed.

Acrylic paint is plastic, a synthetic.
Synthetics don't decay.
It just makes more sense to use a non decaying synthetic to protect a synthetic.

With black acrylic paint you want to avoid friction, abrasives and organic wax.

 

Many detailers like the look of organic waxes over synthetic products or even a combination. They do not harm the paint but usually are just not as durable.

Claying is a basic step in getting the paint perfectly clean. Clay can mar if done improperly or the wrong clay is used.