Battery was low, had to rescue the wife as would not start after she stopped at a deli on her way home. I read 8 volts at the terminals before I jumped it. Put a new battery in and replaced fluid and filter (pan very clean). Its been roughly 100,000 since dealer replace fluid @ 60,000 mi. After the battery change but before I changed the fluid this morning the Caliber was in limp mode and I read P0700 & P0602 I cleared them and will disregard them for now (I wish I knew if they were in there before the battery change, but I don't). Working in the back yard, I have hit two important points in the MasterTech writeup and plan on getting a backpressure meter to put on the O2 sensor soon. I will scan again after she gets some miles on it this weekend but she drove it 10 miles last night with no issues.

 

Nice, Thanks for keeping us updated.

 

Thought I would update as it has been 11 days since replacing fluid and the filter (inside the pan). No problem, wifey drove with A/C on for her 45 minute commute home.
In any case, new battery, 7 qts. fluid + new filter and gasket. (5 1/2 years on origonal battery is not bad).
I did measure what I drained and it was the 7 qts. without torque converter, so that s what I put back in. What I use is an old flexable Nissan transmission dip stick and take a reading in our driveway, engine cool just to be sure I am somewhere near where the CVT fluid ought to be. I know, sounds shakey.
The thing is with battery getting weak, its dead and unchargable now, but that may have been the problem all along as far as the tranny electronics working right. I'll probably never know but fluid and filter was due to be changed. Regards, Rich

 

A bad/weak battery can cause many weird problems on modern cars. The battery acts like a big capacitor when the engine is running to absorb voltage spikes up or down. A bad battery can not do this, so the computer can act a fool at times.

 

This may be coincidence but think you all should hear this (caliber 2009 sxt 2.0). Last summer would get a whine on a hot day doing high rpm/hill climb/high speed. Figured something was just working extra hard to keep everything cool. This summer it would do it again. In June got a hot tranny light going 90 mph over passes with loaded car haha. Followed the book, slowed down, it went out eventually and I coninued on my way (the book didn't communicate that it was a big deal just "slow down to cool". Got my second hot trany light in July and the car slowed down on its own. Took longer to cool. Tons of whine noise. End of trip got strange rattle noises from engine area especially at slower speeds. I had been letting my tranny oil change go way over due cause it's $300 that only Dodge can do! Well I decided it was high time. Got it and the tranny filter changed. Still the tranny whine when hot and still the rattle. Spoke to my go to mechanic and he said possibly bearings in the drive belt system. Came to my favorite dodgeforum and immediatly matched this rattle issue with the alternator pulley/clutch (it's one of the sticky notes). Replaced it and car is like new. LONG STORY SHORT, it's still hot out, the whine disappeared, no more hot light at all and I swear the car has more power than the whole 2 years (50k miles) I've owned it. I know it sounds weird that changing that part would fix that whine and hot issue but I'm confident thats what it was. The bad pulley was deffinately shot, it was all seized up. Hope this helps someone

 

Thanks Woodge, that is good thing to watch for, especially how well that fix worked...our 2007 turned 213000 this morning, runs well. Richie

 

I also having temp trans light and crazy noise from pullery. need too know whats causing temp light to slow car down.

 

when you replaced the filter did you replace the rubber gasket if now how was the condition