Ok lets start my list, I have 97 caravan 3.3L 152000, tranny just rebuilt, was experiencing that problem where the van would die suddenly while driving like someone removed the battery cable, took it to autozone got code for camshaft sensor, replaced that van been running beautiful for a week until yesterday, started to bog when gas was pressed, got it home now it won't start, will turn over but won't start, I know it could be a number of things, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay, I'm not sure, how can I tell? Thanks guys.

 

need to have pressure tested at the fuel rail.. sounds like fuel pressure..

 

Thanks dishdude2k can I do this on my own? Would an autoparts store have a tester to perform this test. Thanks for your help.

 

Will this affect the fuel pump? I can hear the fuel pump coming on when I turn the key, Ive ran the battery down trying to start it and its charging again but still won't start.

 

just because you hear the fuel pump priming doesnt mean its got enough pressure.. could be one of several things.. fuel pump could be weak.. it might just need a new fuel filter... could be a bad injector or 2 ... could be a coil ... i would start with the fuel pressure.. you can pick up an inexpensive guage from auto zone.. or the like.. i piked one up for like 20 bucks at harbor freight tools.. works great.. not sure what pressure is supposed to be at.. will have to look it up.. also .. too much fuel pressure can have the same results.. (havent seen that too often though) .. if fuel pressure is low.. replace the filter first.. see if that clears it up.. also.. when you disconnect the line at the filter.. also take it off of the fuel rail and blow some air through it.. make sure theres no gunk in it.. if all is good with the pressure and filter and all that.. then you need to check to see if you have spark... on each cylinder..

 

Can I check for pressure at the valve by pushing something in to release, shouldnt there be some pressure?

 

not sure if you have the pressure relief valve on this one.. mine doesnt.. even so.. just because theres SOME pressure.. doesnt mean theres ENOUGH pressure..

 

A fuel pump sometimes has not got enough pressure to push gas through the regulator. It can still be perfectly high enough to run the engine. The car's computer will actually compensate for the lower pressure by opening the injectors longer.

What then happens is that since fuel is not recirculating back to the tank, it has time to get hot and boil in the fuel rails, which are right on top of the hot engine. This causes vapor lock and stalling which shows itself only when the car is nice and warmed up, especially on a hot day. The lower pressure of the fuel also aggravates the issue, because it lowers the boiling point. Always suspect the pump on a high mileage car that has these symptoms.

I have had two cars of mine do this. They were both high milers (over 120K) when the pump wore to that point. Now my neighbor's 96 Dodge Caravan is showing the exact same symptoms. The best way to check for this is to first measure the fuel pressure at the fuel rails. If low, it's likely the pump. if it looks ok, unhook the return line at the tank and see if there's flow back to the tank. It's possible the pressure is just barely too low and not circulating. (This is best done outside so fuel vapors won't build up and catch fire.) One person to catch the gas in a can and one to run the car is best. If there is little or no fuel flowing back to the tank, it's probably the pump. (Change the fuel filter first to eliminate it as a cause.) Changing the fuel pump is an advanced project for the shade tree mechanic, but doable. Read and follow instructions carefully from a Chilton's or similar manual.