3.8L oil disappearing??
#21
03-20-2012, 07:24 PM
Disappearing Oil 3.8 L
2007 3.8L engine Dodge Grand Caravan oil consumption
I have replaced the PCV twice with no decrease in oil consumption.
The average oil consumption is still a quart in a little less than 1000 miles. I think most of the oil consumption may take place when I am on a long distance trip. I cannot verify this. However, I noticed it most when I was enroute.
The Dodge specs say:
1. If the engine's average oil consumption is less than 750 miles, that is normal if your engine has 50,000 miles.
2. If your engine has 90,000 miles, then as long as the oil consumption is less than 1 quart per 500 miles, that is acceptable as well.
Replies from Chrysler verify that my oil consumption is acceptable with the mileage on my engine. No service will be done to correct this even though my warranty is still within the 5 year/100,000 miles. Other replies from the Chrysler/Dodge dealership suggest I purchase a new 2012 Dodge Caravan from them. According to them, the 3.6 engine has had extensive testing with good results. I wonder why they switched to the 3.6L engine? Too many problems with the 3.8L might be the reason...?
I have replaced the PCV twice with no decrease in oil consumption.
The average oil consumption is still a quart in a little less than 1000 miles. I think most of the oil consumption may take place when I am on a long distance trip. I cannot verify this. However, I noticed it most when I was enroute.
The Dodge specs say:
1. If the engine's average oil consumption is less than 750 miles, that is normal if your engine has 50,000 miles.
2. If your engine has 90,000 miles, then as long as the oil consumption is less than 1 quart per 500 miles, that is acceptable as well.
Replies from Chrysler verify that my oil consumption is acceptable with the mileage on my engine. No service will be done to correct this even though my warranty is still within the 5 year/100,000 miles. Other replies from the Chrysler/Dodge dealership suggest I purchase a new 2012 Dodge Caravan from them. According to them, the 3.6 engine has had extensive testing with good results. I wonder why they switched to the 3.6L engine? Too many problems with the 3.8L might be the reason...?
Last edited by UTVol79; 03-20-2012 at 07:34 PM.
#22
03-25-2012, 09:53 PM
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Sounds excessive on the oil consumption.
I use mobil 1 10 w-30 full synthetic and only burn through one quart of oil every 3000 miles like clock work.
My pcv valve is after market. Been on there for 3 years since i last replaced it has worked fine though mopar of course is better.
If you using that much oil could be your as has been mentioned your oil control rings could be the culprit.
I swear by 2 products
First is Seafoam ( i use this regularly for 3 years on lawn equipment mixed into the gasoline with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, all my equipment runs excellent no gummed up carbs) also used it on my carbuerated suzuki gs55e and it always ran great and started right away.
The second is chevron techron - i always run this in my van and have used it for years on bosch k-jetronic controlled german cars, always kept the injectors and fuel system clean.
Run either at every fill up for a month and check your oil consumption.
If this doesn't work try switching to regular dino oil no synthetics and check consumption.
Seems to me if you were burning that much oil you would see a cloud of white thick smoke every time you ran the car.
I use mobil 1 10 w-30 full synthetic and only burn through one quart of oil every 3000 miles like clock work.
My pcv valve is after market. Been on there for 3 years since i last replaced it has worked fine though mopar of course is better.
If you using that much oil could be your as has been mentioned your oil control rings could be the culprit.
I swear by 2 products
First is Seafoam ( i use this regularly for 3 years on lawn equipment mixed into the gasoline with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, all my equipment runs excellent no gummed up carbs) also used it on my carbuerated suzuki gs55e and it always ran great and started right away.
The second is chevron techron - i always run this in my van and have used it for years on bosch k-jetronic controlled german cars, always kept the injectors and fuel system clean.
Run either at every fill up for a month and check your oil consumption.
If this doesn't work try switching to regular dino oil no synthetics and check consumption.
Seems to me if you were burning that much oil you would see a cloud of white thick smoke every time you ran the car.
#23
03-30-2012, 06:00 PM
Registered User
In my opinion, a "wet" gasket should not cause a 1,100 mile per quart oil consumption without coating the engine and evetually reaching the ground unless it is a valve cover gasket coating the clyinder head, block and oil pan before it drips to the ground.
I'd follow the van and watch for light blue smoke out the tail pipe when the van is driven under variious conditions.
My '98 DOHC Neon occasionally puffs out blue smoke (oil) after a long red traffic light idling and when the throttle is first cracked open - and usually more towards the end of the oil change interval. No drips on the floor, etc. with 1500-2000 miles per quart - depending on the brand of oil and my driving (drag strip, auto crossing or just having fun with more expensive cars)
I'd follow the van and watch for light blue smoke out the tail pipe when the van is driven under variious conditions.
My '98 DOHC Neon occasionally puffs out blue smoke (oil) after a long red traffic light idling and when the throttle is first cracked open - and usually more towards the end of the oil change interval. No drips on the floor, etc. with 1500-2000 miles per quart - depending on the brand of oil and my driving (drag strip, auto crossing or just having fun with more expensive cars)
It's my experience that a puff of blue smoke right after a short stop and idling near the end oil an oil change cycle is due to:1. Oil is thinned and 2 oil gets past the valve seals. Usually an indication of wear that may want to be looked at before long.
JMHO!!
#24
03-30-2012, 06:19 PM
I use an oversize oil filter, Mopar's equivalent to the Ford/Mototcraft FL-1A and Fram TG-8A, which helps put a little more oil in circulation.
I am not sure what mine is using, am thinking a litre in about 3400 kms. When it is down to the mark, I will change it. One litre has already been added, 6200 kms on the oil now.
I will be switching over to 10W-30 as well.
I am not sure what mine is using, am thinking a litre in about 3400 kms. When it is down to the mark, I will change it. One litre has already been added, 6200 kms on the oil now.
I will be switching over to 10W-30 as well.
#25
03-31-2012, 08:41 AM
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update
Ok, guys. I have tried the PVC replacement and everything else. I have found that if I use regular 10W40 (Castrol) along with the 6 cylinder Engine Restore from Wal-mart, my van use almost no oil between oil changes (3000). It makes oil changes a little more expensive but gives me peace of mind. Good luck.
Personally, I believe that an engine shouldn't burn or waste any oil unless there is an issue. Cars of the past didn't so, why is it ok for them today? Won't buy another Dodge with a policy like theirs...
Personally, I believe that an engine shouldn't burn or waste any oil unless there is an issue. Cars of the past didn't so, why is it ok for them today? Won't buy another Dodge with a policy like theirs...
#26
03-31-2012, 09:02 AM
Ok, guys. I have tried the PVC replacement and everything else. I have found that if I use regular 10W40 (Castrol) along with the 6 cylinder Engine Restore from Wal-mart, my van use almost no oil between oil changes (3000). It makes oil changes a little more expensive but gives me peace of mind. Good luck.
Personally, I believe that an engine shouldn't burn or waste any oil unless there is an issue. Cars of the past didn't so, why is it ok for them today? Won't buy another Dodge with a policy like theirs...
Personally, I believe that an engine shouldn't burn or waste any oil unless there is an issue. Cars of the past didn't so, why is it ok for them today? Won't buy another Dodge with a policy like theirs...
As to the additive, is it a teflon, zinc, solvent or detergent additive? Here's an interesting article on engine oil additives: http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/snake_oil.txt
Information for this article was compiled from reports and studies by the University of Nevada Desert Research Center, DuPont Chemical Company, Avco Lycoming (aircraft engine manufacturers), North Dakota State University, Briggs and Stratton (engine manufacturers), the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station, California State Polytechnic College and the National Aeronautics and Space Administration's Lewis Research Center.
We defined our four groups this way:
1.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil (including standard additives) with PTFE (Teflon TM) added.
2.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil (including standard additives) with zinc dialkyldithiophosphate added.
3.) Products containing (as near as we could determine) much the same additives as are already found in most major brands of engine oil, though in different quantities and combinations.
4.) Products made up primarily of solvents and/or detergents.
1.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil (including standard additives) with PTFE (Teflon TM) added.
2.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil (including standard additives) with zinc dialkyldithiophosphate added.
3.) Products containing (as near as we could determine) much the same additives as are already found in most major brands of engine oil, though in different quantities and combinations.
4.) Products made up primarily of solvents and/or detergents.
Detergents And Solvents
Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like "quieter lifters," "reduced oil burning" and a "cleaner engine."
Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they can be flushed or burned out. Wynn's Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is 83 percent kerosene. Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard mineral oil.
In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving behind a "coating" or a "plating" on your engine surfaces, they are designed to strip away such things.
All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one. The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal contact within your engine.
Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like "quieter lifters," "reduced oil burning" and a "cleaner engine."
Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they can be flushed or burned out. Wynn's Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is 83 percent kerosene. Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard mineral oil.
In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving behind a "coating" or a "plating" on your engine surfaces, they are designed to strip away such things.
All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one. The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal contact within your engine.
1) Mileage below 50,000
*Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 1,000 miles driven
2) Mileage above 50,000
*Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 750 miles driven
*Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 1,000 miles driven
2) Mileage above 50,000
*Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 750 miles driven
Last edited by TJeepman; 03-31-2012 at 09:20 AM.
#27
04-01-2012, 07:56 AM
As far as manufacturer's policy on acceptable oil consumption, they all seem to have largely the same policy. In the automotive advice column that runs in our paper, several times a year someone complains about oil consumption in their Brand X vehicle, Brand X being different each time.
I have read that the oil manufacturers had to drastically reduce the amount of zinc in their oil because the zinc would contaminate the catalytic converter. That's why on older engines like the one in my 70 Camaro, you need to buy different oil than what goes in the newer engines to protect the lobes on the cam.
I have read that the oil manufacturers had to drastically reduce the amount of zinc in their oil because the zinc would contaminate the catalytic converter. That's why on older engines like the one in my 70 Camaro, you need to buy different oil than what goes in the newer engines to protect the lobes on the cam.
#28
11-21-2012, 09:40 AM
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have you found the oil loss to be linear? I have been running oil consumption checks with my dealer for a year now. One check ago (that they said was invalid because not done over 1k miles) was a loss of 2.5 to 3 quarts during a 3k mile period. Last check was 1/2 quart low over 1k miles.
I have had the check engine oil light go on there was so much oil lost over a 3k period. Other 2k periods had only 1.5 quarts lost. No real difference in driving habits?
I just can not see loosing 1/2 the oil capacity of the engine between oil changes. Has anyone had Dodge do something? Or do they just say... ya we screwed up with the engine... just deal with it.
I have had the check engine oil light go on there was so much oil lost over a 3k period. Other 2k periods had only 1.5 quarts lost. No real difference in driving habits?
I just can not see loosing 1/2 the oil capacity of the engine between oil changes. Has anyone had Dodge do something? Or do they just say... ya we screwed up with the engine... just deal with it.
#29
11-22-2012, 07:38 AM
Registered User
Sounds excessive on the oil consumption.
I use mobil 1 10 w-30 full synthetic and only burn through one quart of oil every 3000 miles like clock work.
My pcv valve is after market. Been on there for 3 years since i last replaced it has worked fine though mopar of course is better.
If you using that much oil could be your as has been mentioned your oil control rings could be the culprit.
I swear by 2 products
First is Seafoam ( i use this regularly for 3 years on lawn equipment mixed into the gasoline with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, all my equipment runs excellent no gummed up carbs) also used it on my carbuerated suzuki gs55e and it always ran great and started right away.
The second is chevron techron - i always run this in my van and have used it for years on bosch k-jetronic controlled german cars, always kept the injectors and fuel system clean.
Run either at every fill up for a month and check your oil consumption.
If this doesn't work try switching to regular dino oil no synthetics and check consumption.
Seems to me if you were burning that much oil you would see a cloud of white thick smoke every time you ran the car.
I use mobil 1 10 w-30 full synthetic and only burn through one quart of oil every 3000 miles like clock work.
My pcv valve is after market. Been on there for 3 years since i last replaced it has worked fine though mopar of course is better.
If you using that much oil could be your as has been mentioned your oil control rings could be the culprit.
I swear by 2 products
First is Seafoam ( i use this regularly for 3 years on lawn equipment mixed into the gasoline with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, all my equipment runs excellent no gummed up carbs) also used it on my carbuerated suzuki gs55e and it always ran great and started right away.
The second is chevron techron - i always run this in my van and have used it for years on bosch k-jetronic controlled german cars, always kept the injectors and fuel system clean.
Run either at every fill up for a month and check your oil consumption.
If this doesn't work try switching to regular dino oil no synthetics and check consumption.
Seems to me if you were burning that much oil you would see a cloud of white thick smoke every time you ran the car.
I have a 1998 Caravan 3.8 that has only 87000 miles on it. It was my Dad's and Mom gave it to me when Pop passed away 2 years ago. I use BG Synthetic and don't change but every 5000 miles. Oil consumption is nearly zero. Maybe 1/2 qt over 3 months (about 4000 miles). I would be really concerned if I had a vehicle that used 2-3 qts of oil over 3000 miles...over the course of a year, that is like the cost of a full tank of gas!!!!
#30
12-13-2012, 03:48 PM
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Here is a real interesting fact for all of you looking at finding out why you are loosing so much oil.
Dodge will tell you this... word for word...
You have asked for a letter about the oil consumption on your vehicle. Industry Standards for Normal Engine Oil Consumption:
1) Mileage below 50,000
Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 1,000 miles driven
2) Mileage above 50,000
Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 750 miles driven
I have just spent the last few weeks finding out that there is NO Industry Standards for this type of thing at all. Dodge can not even show me which orginzation published this so called "Industry Standards". If you ask they will show you were it is posted on the web under a "customer connect" web site that Dodge put up there to quite down some customers. But that is Dodge's own mask to cover up one lie with another.
Go again and ask them where to the the "Industry Standards"..... have fun....
Dodge will tell you this... word for word...
You have asked for a letter about the oil consumption on your vehicle. Industry Standards for Normal Engine Oil Consumption:
1) Mileage below 50,000
Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 1,000 miles driven
2) Mileage above 50,000
Normal oil consumption is one quart for each 750 miles driven
I have just spent the last few weeks finding out that there is NO Industry Standards for this type of thing at all. Dodge can not even show me which orginzation published this so called "Industry Standards". If you ask they will show you were it is posted on the web under a "customer connect" web site that Dodge put up there to quite down some customers. But that is Dodge's own mask to cover up one lie with another.
Go again and ask them where to the the "Industry Standards"..... have fun....