Hello i have a 2002 grand caravan with a 3.8l that i just bought about a couple months ago.. now i have two questions.. one is i just replaced the blower motor resistor and when on anyother speed than high it gives me an electrical smell in the car and the other day it will only work on high and the one step below high.. is it recommended to just replace the blower motor itself if so how would i do that.. instead of going through many resistors..

second problems is my door adfar light comes on when i hit bumps or take a sharp corner.. or when i take off from a red light.. and then it will go off either when i close the door several times or if i hit another bump or stop suddenly.. now i have noticed that the locking mechanism on the driver sliding door(not automatic) that it has been beaten with something and could it just be a little lose causing the light to come on and then go out.. as the door never really comes adjar. any suggestions on what i should do.. my jobs has cut me back and cat really afford to take it to dealer.. and i can fix it myself once i know what the problem is. i have read some where that the door wiring harnesses can get shorts in them.. could that be the case.. but i believe that it is the door lock or something on the door as the metal around the lock looks as if someone took a hamer to it. should i try and get a new lock.. and another question is how exactly do the door adjar system work on the sliding doors.. as im new to the dodge family and this van is great other than me hearing it DING!!! everytime i hit the bump and the light comes on then goes out.. and ding everytime.

 

The smell could be the motor itself. The door adjar lite coming on is most likely one or both sliding door switches. Which door is used more? Start with that door switch. You can unplug the switches and see if the problem is solved.

 

well today i have isolated the door switch in the driver side sliding door when the door lock locked up and i couldn't close the door without taring it apart and it looks like that is has been beaten with something previously.. so im going to get a new latch from the dealer on monday. as i have traced down that the ajar switch is built into the latch itself. so i just unplugged it complety at the bottom of the door wear the wiring harness connects.. now do you know how much a blower motor runs.. and a latch assembly from the dealer? thanks. as i may have to replace the door itself from the damage of around were the door latch hole is from being beaten.. so i straightened it out the best i could.

 

I don't have access to a part list. You may need to call the dealer and give them the last 9 of the vin.

 

Hello i have a issue.. this weekend i was doing an oil change, tranny filter change.. and fixed an annoying exuast leak.. and drgreased engine and tranny since gaskets were leaking. now my problem was that once i got it all done and started the van it started and would run only if i kept my foot on the gas but once i let off it would die as if i turned the ignition to the off position. ran the code dio and came across 1684,0442,0455, and 0508 which i know what the first three are and had the problem for a while which the like will go out and come back on but the last one was new to me and so i looked it up on line and told me that it was the iac.. which the weekend before i cleaned it out due to the van idling rough.. when i went to check out the connection i noticed that the wire harness running to the iac and egr valve.. ect.. has been melted and burned i guess from an old leaking egr valve as the one on there looks new.. once i moved the wired a little bit the van started and has been running fine ever since.. now my question is.. do i have to replace the hole engine harness which by the way it is a 3.8l 2002 grand caravan.. and about an estimate of cost to have fixed i don't want this issue happening again. thanks.

second is the 1684 code has been on there since i got the van about 6 months ago. as i had to put a new battery and alternator on it when i bought it. but from what i have read that the code would clear itself but hasn't. and is there a way to clear codes without having to hook it up to a scanner?

 

No you don't need to replace the hasness. I had this same problem with a 2002 minivan at work. All i did was cut a solder new wires.

 

what all do i have to remove as where it is burned and bare wires are showing seems to be too short to get any cutteris in there to get below the burned wires.. as i would be able to do this myself just not sure or a proper way of doing it.. as im new to the dodge scene as i have worked on mostley chevy and ford stuff.. also i wanted to ask that my van has about 180k miles on it and has the fourspeed overdrive tranny.. and im wanting to replace it with a newer engine like a 3.5 or 4.0 with the 6 speed tranny.. or even replace the one i have but still would like either a 5 speed or 6 speed transmission.. what all would i have to doo to install something like that..

 

LOL Wires on a Dodge are the the same as Ford and Chevy -Just repair them.

seriously - I'd consider replacing the burnt section of the old wires with new ones. I would not use crimps, but I'd solder the connections and use shrink insulation along with good quality electrical tape to make a new wire bundle. You need to preplan the length so they will out of harms way.

BUT - You could always try to get origional, imitation MOPAR wires from China for the job.