Basically this is a question for anyone who has at least partially disassembled their transmission.

I do have have the ATSG manual but my specific issue is not addressed.

Pulled the transmission to replace the leaking oil seal and trans pump o-ring.
After removing the pump, the input shaft clutch assembly accidentally came out as well.

After a few hours I finally reinstalled the clutch assembly (aligning of the clutch plates took forever).
But the pump now rests about 2 mm above the case (where the pump gasket resides). My guess is that it rests on the so called "caged needle bearing" in the clutch assembly.

So now, I don't know if this is normal or if I improperly installed the clutch assembly. ??

Also, without much force, I can use the pump bolts to push the pump to the case.
But if i do that, I can no longer turn the input shaft, and there isnt any play in it. That doesnt seem right to me. Should the input shaft and that bearing be under pressure like that??

This diagram may help :http://a.imageshack.us/img819/2325/a604diagram1.jpg

 

Welcome to DF
Okay the reason the pump is not down all the way,is because all the clutches are not lined up.The right way to replace the pump seals should have been,letting the transmission sit up wards on the transfer cover.This way the front hub assy would stay in the transmission. What you need to do now,is take the pump back off and the hub assy out.remove the input sensor......And maybe thinking am nuts about the sensor.Move the transmission on it back side.Meaning having the transmission pan facing up. Remove the 2/4 sun gear/hub assy.Make should all your clutches are lined up on the back side of the transmission.Lay the front pump in the torque converter, than lay the input shaft and hub assy into the pump. You will need to remove the clutches in the hub assy.Just the reverse and o/d drive clutches and steels.Then put the u/d hub in and make sure all the cltches are lined up,then put the o/d hub and shaft on top of the u/d hub.Be sure all the thrush washer are in place,you can use grease to keep them in place. Next install the o/d clutches and steels and the reaction plate,remember steps down. Then install the reverse clutches and steels.Than the reaction place.Tap the plate down to install the snap ring.Here is the fun part. Take a flat blade driver and loosing the reverse reacton plate and the take the 2/4 hub and line up the reverse clutches.Now tap on the reverse reaction plate.This will lock the disc into place. Take the 2/4 hub off the front hub assy and don't let the clutches move or lift up.put the 2/4 hub back into the back half of the transmission.Now take the hub assy out of the front pump and don't grab the shafts.Grab from the sides and then use two hands on the input shaft and slide the hub assy down inside the back half. The reason for the input being removed,is when all the clutches are lined up.The tone wheel of the hub will be centered in the hole by looking.Once you have the clutches lined up, then put the transmission on the transfer gear cover, standing up.Then install the bearing that goes between the front punp and hub.The taps on the bearing faces up to the pump.Then install pump. Then use channel lock to turn the input shaft.

 

You need to have .005-.0020" end play in the input assembly when fully assembled.

It's VERY rare to have the pump o-ring leaking. Make sure you are not miss diagnosing a broken case from failed diff pin.

Master tech is correct, you need to remove the input speed sensor. you MUST see the trigger wheel on the input assembly PERFECTLY centered in the hole for the input speed sensor.

if you remove the reverse-2/4sun shell, then stick your finger down the hole and feel the OD sun gear, if you can pull up on it at all the L/R carrier is not fully seated.

if you turn and of the parts and it feels notchy at all, you are sitting on a clutch disc and not fully seated

also make sure the #4 thrust washer on the front sun gear is seated and that #4 selective washer thrust plate is secure to the OD hub in the input assembly and make sure. when these thrust washers get dislodged, you get into all kinds of fitting problems with the pump.

 

Thank you very much for these tips.
Very detailed instructions, master tech, thanks. I will give this a try right now.\

Stupid me had the trans on its side while taking out the pump, didnt think about all the insides dislodging.

About the leak: well, it was leaking out of the bellhousing through the dust cover. so i figured it was either the input shaft oil seal or the pump o-ring or both. Also, the rubber o-ring was rock-hard. It crumbled away when I took it off.

 

It is actually rare for these transmissions to have pump seal leaks. it is more common to have differential pin wear a hole or destroy the case in the bellhousing causing a leak. look very closely at the bell housing near the pump on the differential side. I can provide many pictures of cases that have failed in this location from minor crack to major explosion

 

Ok. I fixed it.
I didnt have to go as far as master tech suggested. I just took everything out that came out straight without needing to remove any snap rings. And carefully assembled everything back checking that all the parts rested on their respective bearings.

 

Good job. I am glad the fourm was able to help with your problem.