you contact Tizzy and he posts them. infact, maybe try searching this forum and what you need may have already been posted

 

What is Tizzy?

 

OMG, you must not read any of the posts. heck his id is even listed in a sticky!!!

 

There is a way to check the Crankshaft and Camshaft Sensors and easiest with sensor removed from vehicle. Three wire sensor is basically a diode test with wires reversed and noting readings on both polarity. Hal-effect transistors are nothing more than a diode. The sensor contains basically 2 diodes. Current conducts only in one direction with a diode. That is why you first probe the sensor with negative on the emitter pin and positive on each of the other two pins one at a time. Note the measurement with the DVM (digital volt meter) with the negative of the meter (black wire) on the emitter which is basically the ground of the diodes. Then reverse the DVM or DMM (Digital Multi Meter) leads so the positive is on the emitter and the negative lead on each of the other two pins, one at a time and note the measurements. You should get a reading in one polarity direction but not in the other on both of the other two leads. Remember the meter must be set on the diode test to do this. If you do not get a high ohms reading in one direction and a low reading in the other direction of polarity between the Base and the Collector of the other two pins, then the sensor is bad. I have seen open in one direction on one side of the sensor but the other side tested OK. They can be shorted in both directions, but generally I see open on one side such as between the emitter and the base, or emitter and the collector. The new sensor showed the correct results of high in one direction and low in the other on both pins between the emitter base and the emitter collector. The ground lead will be the emitter on any transistor. The high reading will be different between the emitter and the base, which will be lower than the high reading between the emitter and the collector because the collector is the output and has the highest gain. Just remember that both the Crankshaft Sensor and the Camshaft Sensor has to have a special little round paper that is sticky on one side affixed to the bottom of the sensor end after you wipe it off with alcohol to remove the oil from it before inserting it back into the hole to assure proper .030" spacing between the sensor and the metal pickup inside the hole. If you do not go to the autoparts store and get these sticky dots of paper to put over the end of the sensor, the sensor will bottom out against the pickup metal inside the mounting hole and ruin your connector when the engine is cranked, plus it will not start if the sensor is touching the metal inside the hole that rotates when the engine rotates. In a pinch, I have put a tiny speck of super glue on the end of the sensor and affixed immediately a small round piece of cardboard from the box the sensor came in that measures .029". I guessed the glue would take up the other thousands of an inch. It worked and the engine started for me, which would not start because a mechanic put grease on the end of the sensor and the paper fell off the sensor and it showed rub mark scratches on the bottom of the sensor. I hope this helps everyone thinking about removing either the crank or cam sensors to test them. This way, it eliminates an possibility of the wire and the sensor as to what is the problem of whether the sensor is good or bad. Additionally check the continuity of the wires after removing the sensor to see if the wires are good between the sensor connector and the PCM plugs. Get a printout of the PCM pinout diagram to know what number on the PCM connectors are the ones you want to check. This diagram eliminates the chance of error and tells you which pins of the PCM connectors go to what sensor or device.