I need some help.... I am replacing the A/C Clutch on the 97 Dodge Grand Caravan ES with a 3.8 Litre Engine. I bought the clutch assembly from Advanced auto but the only A/C service kit they have which would have pulled the clutch plate doesn't have any of the correct fittings. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what my alternatives are such as using a two arm or three arm puller. I would probably have to put the 10mm center bolt back in loose so I could use the puller... I think? Just looking for suggestions.

Thanks

 

COMPRESSOR CLUTCH/COIL
REMOVAL
Remove the compressor shaft bolt Compressor Shaft Bolt and Clutch Plate A band type oil filter removal tool can be placed around the clutch plate to aid in bolt removal.
CAUTION: Do not use screwdrivers between the clutch plate assembly and pulley to remove front plate as this may damage the front plate assembly.

Tap the clutch plate with a plastic hammer and remove clutch plate and shim Clutch Plate and Shim(s)
Remove pulley retaining snap ring with snap ring pliers (C-4574), and slide pulley assembly off of compressor Removing Pulley Snap Ring
Remove coil wire clip screw and wire harness.
Remove snap ring retaining field coil onto compressor housing Clutch Coil Snap Ring Slide field coil off of compressor housing.
Examine frictional faces of the clutch pulley and front plate for wear. The pulley and front plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring. If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft nose area of the compressor for oil and remove the felt from the front cover. If the compressor felt is saturated with oil, the shaft seal is leaking and will have to be replaced.
Check bearing for roughness, excessive leakage or grease. If grease from bearing has contaminated the faces of the pulley or front plate, they should be replaced. If the bearing is rough or binds, replace clutch pulley and front plate assembly
CAUTION: The clutch pulley and the front plate were mated at the factory by a burnishing operation. No attempt should be made to separately replace either part. This will result in clutch slippage due to insufficient contact area.

INSTALLATION
Align pin in back of field coil with hole in compressor end housing, and position field coil into place. Make sure that lead wires are properly routed, and fasten with the wire clip screw.
Install field coil retaining snap ring with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring facing outward. Also both snap ring eyelets must be to the right or left of the pin on compressor. Press snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove
CAUTION: If snap ring is not fully seated it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front face of the compressor.

Install pulley assembly to compressor. If necessary, tap gently with a block of wood on the friction surface Installing Pulley Assembly
CAUTION: Do not mar the pulley frictional surface.

Install pulley assembly retaining snap ring (bevel side outward) with snap ring pliers. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove.
If the original front plate assembly and pulley assembly are to be reused, the old shim(s) can be used. If not, place a trial stack of shims, 1 mm (0.040 in.) thick, on the shaft against the shoulder.
Install front plate assembly onto shaft.
With the front plate assembly tight against the shim(s), measure the air gap between front plate and pulley face with feeler gauges. The air gap should be between 0.5 and 0.9 mm (.020 and.035 inch) If proper air gap is not obtained, add or subtract shims until desired air gap is obtained.
Install compressor shaft bolt. Tighten to 17.5±2 N·m (155±20 in. lbs.)
NOTE: Shims may compress after tightening shaft nut. Check air gap in four or more places to verify if air gap is still correct. Spin pulley for final check.

CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new clutch has been installed, check the voltage and amperage to the clutch (determine it to be satisfactory) Then cycle the A/C clutch approximately 20 times (5 sec. on and 5 sec. off) For this procedure, set the system to the A/C mode, using high blower, and engine rpm at 1500-2000. This procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher clutch torque capability.

 

Thanks, I've gotten everything taken apart without a hitch. Cleaned up the face of the compressor and I am ready to assemble everything. I am having a heck of a time getting that larger snap ring back onto the shaft. The snap ring pliers are twisting the ring so it does not seat correctly. Plus the fact that the compressor is still in the vehicle so there is little room and I can't see the shaft all too well. Thanks for the directions, they were great. I'm going to see if I can buy some better snap ring pliers to make the job easier.

 

take the mounting bolts off the comprewssor and let it hang pulley face down, this will help you see what your doin.
Carefull not to let it hang by the lines as they shouldnt be used to support the weght, some mechanics wire or an old coathanger will help to wire it up.

you can get the snap ring on the shaft crooked or not you can straighten it up by tapping around it with a small punch, once it finds the machined land it will snap into it and be flat.