We recently bought a 97 DGC, and its been issues...
Alright, So I have no check engine light on.
the van is struggling to start. will whine, whine, whine, and start and choke,
crank on it a few more times and it starts.
Also at no in paticular speed, at any and all speeds pretty much, it will have like a power cut off, rpms drop, and the van jolts. almost like a manual when you hit the clutch to decel except harder. it only cuts out for a second, but picks right back up, and this issue is getting worse.

any help please.

 

Get yourself the Chilton's repair manual. It has the tests you'll need to perform on the components.

You didn't tell us what engine you have or how many mile. 3.3 or 3.8 are most common. Both of mine have 3.3 lt.

Things I'd test first;
-TPS, throttle position sensor
-AIT, Air intake temp sensor
-ICS, Idle control solenoid
-EGR, Exhaust Gas recirculator valve
-CKS, Crankshaft Sensor
-CMS, Camshaft sensor
-All vacuum lines for leaks
The book will tell you how to test each component.

All play a big part in fuel mixture as well as injector timing and duration.

The "power drop" sound like an O2 sensor. Mine has an upstream and downstream O2 sensor.
When I replaced mine, I just replaced the upstream and problem solved.

It's troubling that your check engine light isn't on. My GCV's always show indication when a problem is present.
Try the "key dance" to check it for codes. (key= ON,OFF,ON,OFF,ON) I'm thinking your bulb may be out.

My local Autozone has a scan tool to lend and will translate the codes for you. Most autoparts stores will scan your rig for free (in hopes you'll buy any needed parts from them.).

Hope you get your GCV running good again soon.
Both of mine, a '96 and '97, have over 200,00mi and run great.

Best Wishes,
PinCup

 

Yes, SOrry it is a 3.3 ltr. And the check engine bulb is good it comes on at key on engine off then goes out.

 

So check engine finally came on today for 5 codes.

p0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Bank 1 or single sensor

p0134 o2 sensor circuit no activity detected bank 1 sensor 1

p0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation flow insufficient detected

p0455 Evap Emission System leak detected (Large Leak)

p1698 no ccd message from tcm

 

O2 sensor is your power loss, I'd change the upstream first. It's a real pain to get to. I decided to replace my spark plugs at the same time because it's easier to do both jobs with the intake plenum removed and the plenum gasket is pretty cheap. Remove the hood and wiper box and it's a breeze. Take care with the washer fluid hose, the plastic couplers break easily.

Cam, EGR, Evap leak, are your hard starting.
Cam sensor is the worst of these jobs. Not easy to get to. Passenger side of the engine, smack in the middle of the serp belt. Plenty of cussing in that job.
EGR can be replaced pretty easy when you have the intake plenum off. Be sure to use Anti-Seize on any steel threads screwed into aluminum. (spark plugs, EGR bolts, ect.)
When the plenum is removed is a good time to inspect for vacuum leaks.
There is a vac trunk line that runs under and behind the plenum that is impossible to see with the plenum installed.
The PCV valve is a little goofy on these 3.3s as well. Replace the hose and PCV while you have the plenum off, they get very hard a brittle.

I've never seen the "p1698" error before.
Maybe MasterTech, Sapporo or Tizzy will have more info on that one.
Does it shift OK? Go into overdrive when it should?
It may be related to the O2 power drop out freaking out the TCM.
It may go away after the other repairs are done.
Check the master plug on your TCM to make sure it's not loose.
PCM, power control module, driverside fender behind the battery.
TCM, Transmission control module, pass side fender,
BCM, body control module, on the floor under the center console.

Other issues I've had with our GCVs,
-Trans output sensor. Tells the TCM the trans output shaft speed.
When it goes out, the van will NOT shift past 2nd gear, sometimes not out of first.
Pretty easy change, the book show where and how.
-97s are know for a "cold solder joint" on the back of the instrument cluster and will cause it to blackout. Pound the dash or hit a good bump in the road, and they'll all come back. My 96 never had this problem, Wife's 97 did. I replaced her entire cluster with a salvage yard piece form a 96 GCV.
- wiperbox drain tube. The pass side wiperbox drain tube is know to come loose and rub the serp belt. The belt slices a dandy hole which will cause rain water to run straight onto the serp belt causing it to squeal during rainy weather. Wrap it with black tape and zipptie it off to the side.


We take a lot of road trips with my 96. It's a MarkVI bubbletop conversion.

So I have replaced the Half-shafts and front wheel bearing on it, just because it's a stupid reason to be stranded 1000 miles from home.

Keep an eye on your local craigslist.
I found a 97 GCV 3.3 for $400, and I drove it home!!!
I parted it out,


And now I have a spare EVERYTHING!!!
This van has already paid for itself 3 times over.
Struts for for wife's, trans in mine (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...s-trouble.html), countless little parts here and there.


Hope you grow to love your GCV as much as I love mine.
They are a great van,
PinCup

 

Transmission shifts fine, OD and all are fine. Thats not an issue.

 

ez1913 has pretty much covered it. Just a few things to add.

Hard starting > Before you reach your wits end in the troubleshooting process stick a fuel pressure gauge (get a loaner at Autozone)on the fuel rail test port before you attempt to start. Pressure should be close to 49psi. A leaking fuel injector will draw down residual fuel pressure leaving you with hard starting in the morning or anytime the van sits off for a while.

Stalling at speed > The crankshaft position sensor is another component notorious for causing stalling. Loose it's signal and the engine will die. Sensors regularly fail without throwing a code, especially cam, crank, MAP, and O2 sensors. You have a cam sensor code. Be aware a cam sensor code can be generated when in actuality the crank sensor is failing on your 3rd generation van. Because of this many mechanics will automatically change both sensors regardless which code is thrown. Since your stalling at speed issue is intermittent, take a close look at the wire harnesses and connections for both sensors looking for chaffing or damaged contacts. If all looks good verify the reference voltage at the sensor from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and ground are good. If all is still good change the sensors. Also starting in 97, the cam sensor is no longer used once the engine is started except as a comparator with the crank sensor.

 

Its actually not stalling, its just like dying out for a 1/4 sec and coming back to life, never have to restart it as it never dies. it just jolts when it loses power.

 

Did you have the van checked for any stored codes yet?

 

yes. those were the only codes I was able to pull from it.