Josh
There isn't a test port for testing fuel pressure on a 3.0 engine. Does the van have a 3 speed transmission or a 4 speed ? You will need a fuel line adapter. Can you post on what parts you have replaced.

 

Hello Master Tech,

It has the 3-SPD transmission in it and I have not yet replaced anything in it because I wanted t do the test first in order to check if I need to go that route.

Can you tell me what adapter I would need with the Fuel Pressure Kit from AutoZone?

 

Adapter is a miller 6539, thats what we use at the dealship.

 

Okay, I took the starter off just to make sure and took it to AutoZone, They ran the test and found out it was fine. No problems with the starter it self.

Plus, After my dad took a look at it, He said it was not new. It may have been rebuilt or a used one but not new.

He's been a mechanic since 30 yrs now....And he is somewhat stumped by this and believes the problem lies in the steering wheel column for the starting and the fuel pump is the reason for stalling.

Im gonna see if I can find that adapter at my local auto store. Thanks Master Tech.

 

I know I havent updated but I pulled of the Ignition Coil to see if maybe that is the problem.

I have used the Ohmmeter and when tested with the positive and negative prongs, It showed a steady 1.2 ohms. It said the avergae resistance is around 0.3 and 1.0

When I tested it with the negative on the prong and the positive went where the spark plug wire goes, It showed 14.85. While reading around, It said I should have between 8,000 - 11,000. Now when I seen the 14.85, It did have a small K in the corner.

Is mine bad or good? I really don't know how to read this that well. That information I gathered was from Ehow...So I can not say that is is exactly correct for this particular......

 

Okay, I looked under the hood and pulled the starter relay after getting a Chiltons Manual to help guide me some. I got my voltmeter and set it to OHMS and did what the book told me to do. I was only getting 66.4 OHMS from the old one. Not to mention it belong to a ford...

So anyways, I grabbed the high beam relay just to check my theory about it being bad. Im suppose to get somewhere between 70-80 ohms and off the high beam relay, I got about 75 ohms, I think. Anyways, 6 out of 6, It started right up...

Tried it again and it still starts up, But sometimes it still does it. Its like 5 out of 6 it will start. Especially when its cold its easy to start. Only really happens when it warms up.

Now after putting an extra 5 miles on it without WOT, it showed no stalling. After a small WOT, Not even to comment on. It was still fine.
How ever, When it got to operating temp, it stalled out. Did not want to start but was cranking like it should.

Just thought I would give a heads up as I continue this process. Im gonna try the Ignition Coil. I had gotten a reply else where saying it caused there symptoms as well. I will see how that goes and keep it updated.

 

Okay, I know Im bringing this from the grave but for those who did follow this I have resolved the problem.

It was the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. The old one was some what melted when examined. The mechanic who helped us with this had touched the CPS and when he moved it around the van would stall right away and when he moved it another way, It would start.

The stalling issue is gone. After nearly 2 weeks of driving, No problems have been encountered with stalling.

Now it cranks 9.8 out of 10. We also found out that the interruptor switch needs to be replaced as well. It is in the steering column on the left hand side.

Thanks for everyone trying to help with this! Much appreciated.