Constant, suspension knocking. Loud under the dash
#11
I don't feel the knocking in the steering or the way the van handles. It's just a horrible noise right now. If the rack & pinion were wearing I imagine I'd feel it through the steering wheel going over bumps and whatnot; at least when the r&p in my Subaru went out that's what I experienced.
#12
It's likely not the strut bushings as they would make a noise when you turn the steering wheel, especially when you're parked. So, I have some questions;
1) Are you sure that the sway bar links are tightly bolted on to the strut and sway bar? Even though you've replaced the links they may not be tight enough and can move around when you're driving.
2) Have you checked the sway bar bushings? They're located on the bottom of the firewall and attach the sway bar to the body.
Cheers
1) Are you sure that the sway bar links are tightly bolted on to the strut and sway bar? Even though you've replaced the links they may not be tight enough and can move around when you're driving.
2) Have you checked the sway bar bushings? They're located on the bottom of the firewall and attach the sway bar to the body.
Cheers
#13
It's likely not the strut bushings as they would make a noise when you turn the steering wheel, especially when you're parked. So, I have some questions;
1) Are you sure that the sway bar links are tightly bolted on to the strut and sway bar? Even though you've replaced the links they may not be tight enough and can move around when you're driving.
2) Have you checked the sway bar bushings? They're located on the bottom of the firewall and attach the sway bar to the body.
Cheers
1) Are you sure that the sway bar links are tightly bolted on to the strut and sway bar? Even though you've replaced the links they may not be tight enough and can move around when you're driving.
2) Have you checked the sway bar bushings? They're located on the bottom of the firewall and attach the sway bar to the body.
Cheers
While I had the end links off I had a look at the bushings. There didn't seem to be any physical play the sway bar at the bushing location.
Is there a way to check the strut bushings without taking the strut out?
Also If I were to tear into the strut how likely is it that I'll have to replace the upper and lower spring damper- the rubber pad the spring seats in?
#14
I'm in largely the same place. I've replaced both the links and bushings with some improvement but there is still noise when going over bumps. It has been suggested that the lower control arm bushings might be the problem but I haven't had an opportunity to check them or have them checked.
I will say that the lower spring shackle bushings were worn almost all the way through so it wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility that the fronts are bad as well.
I will say that the lower spring shackle bushings were worn almost all the way through so it wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility that the fronts are bad as well.
#15
Hi 211. I had this same problem started yesterday. Drivers side, suspension area. Thought it was cv joint b/ it occured as the revolution of the tire tured, but sound was not there when i troubleshooted while driving in reverse.
Ok, here's the clincher. My front drivers side lugs were not tight. Wouldn't it be great if that was your situation. Maybe also something down in the brake area. Wish i was there for a second set of eyes. Many hands, make light work.
scott
Ok, here's the clincher. My front drivers side lugs were not tight. Wouldn't it be great if that was your situation. Maybe also something down in the brake area. Wish i was there for a second set of eyes. Many hands, make light work.
scott
#17
Sorry I forgot to update this post...
Replaced both upper stut mounts. Noise is GONE! Totally silent.
While I was in there I did the front brakes and replaced the rotors. Total time to complete the job was less than 4 hrs; not including compressing the springs which I finally just took down to the local alignment shop.
Replaced both upper stut mounts. Noise is GONE! Totally silent.
While I was in there I did the front brakes and replaced the rotors. Total time to complete the job was less than 4 hrs; not including compressing the springs which I finally just took down to the local alignment shop.