2000 transmission oil change
#1
2000 transmission oil change
First time to change transmission fluid and filter. I have a 2000 caravan 3.0 engine. Don't know what transmission I have?
When I go to put the new gasket on do I put RTV on both sides of the
gasket?
Anyother advice on changing fluid? Like easiest way to drain, it has no
drain plug?
Thanks,
When I go to put the new gasket on do I put RTV on both sides of the
gasket?
Anyother advice on changing fluid? Like easiest way to drain, it has no
drain plug?
Thanks,
#2
You will have a 41TE trans (aka A604). do NOT put rtv on the gasket, there i no reason for that and it's really not recommended by any gasket manufacturer eventhough so many people do it doesn't mean its correct. the gaskets that come with the filter are really decent. clean the pan with mineral spirits, let dry, put gasket in place on the pan then place all the bolts in the pan. the gaske holes are slightly smaller so the bolts stay in and the bolts hold the gasket in place so you don't have to worry about it slipping out of position on install. wipe off trans pan rail, install filter don't forget oring and make sure old filter oring isn't in the trans. snap new filter in place, install pan, (snug about 10ftlbs is plenty don't over tighten this will crush gasket and cause leaks)
When you drop the pan, take all the bolts off at the lowest point (rear) work you way to the front but when you get to the front, highest point, don't remove the last bolt so when you loosen the pan, it doesnt fall and make a huge mess. Do you have a drain pan? if not those aluminum turkey pans work great.
you'll need probably 5 qts of ATF+4 fluid. when you get it all back together, pour in 3, start car, put you foot on the brake, put it rev, drive then back in park, check level and add as necessary
When you drop the pan, take all the bolts off at the lowest point (rear) work you way to the front but when you get to the front, highest point, don't remove the last bolt so when you loosen the pan, it doesnt fall and make a huge mess. Do you have a drain pan? if not those aluminum turkey pans work great.
you'll need probably 5 qts of ATF+4 fluid. when you get it all back together, pour in 3, start car, put you foot on the brake, put it rev, drive then back in park, check level and add as necessary
#3
I've used RTV alone as a gasket several times as stated in the service manual without a problem. That said, if you don't know what you are doing you can easily create a nightmare. That nightmare starts when you apply too much RTV. As you tighten the pan the excess RTV can squeeze into the pan, enter the system and clogg a passage. If you're not comfortable with that I would recommend using a multi-use gasket Chrysler came out with several years ago. No RTV required. They cost a little more (~ $40) but you'll likely not need another gasket for the life of the van. As 22 stated, torquing the pan bolts is key. Don't over tighten and crush the gasket. Been there.
I use a pump and pump the fluid out the dipstick before loosening the pan. It avoids a potential mess. Been there too.
Changing the fluid this way (most of us do) only changes half of the fluid at best. As I recall the 41TE holds around 9 quarts of fluid. Most of the other fluid is trapped in the torque converter. Two ways around it are to change the fluid X3 driving it several miles between changes. This is where a pump comes in real handy so you don't have to drop the pan X3. That or disconnect the flexibale lines connecting the tranny to the tranny cooler (at the radiator). I've never tried this but I've read about it many times. The fluid pumps out the line with the engine running. There are risks involved but it works. If you're not having transmission problems I would just stick with plan A.
I use a pump and pump the fluid out the dipstick before loosening the pan. It avoids a potential mess. Been there too.
Changing the fluid this way (most of us do) only changes half of the fluid at best. As I recall the 41TE holds around 9 quarts of fluid. Most of the other fluid is trapped in the torque converter. Two ways around it are to change the fluid X3 driving it several miles between changes. This is where a pump comes in real handy so you don't have to drop the pan X3. That or disconnect the flexibale lines connecting the tranny to the tranny cooler (at the radiator). I've never tried this but I've read about it many times. The fluid pumps out the line with the engine running. There are risks involved but it works. If you're not having transmission problems I would just stick with plan A.
Last edited by Cougar41; 09-16-2011 at 03:53 PM.
#7
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#8
Yes I do however when I do work like that I always use my friends garage. He has 4 lifts however I can only use it Saturday mornings and if Im stuck I use it Sundays as well. Having a lift and a fully equipped garage really helps. All his tools is Snap on and I can borrow whatever I need. Makes it really easy when you have all the right tools.
He is closed Saturdays and Sundays and only opens up every Saturday for friends and family. I do all the work myself this way I don't have to pay him for his time. If I get stuck he does help me but I don't like to take up his time.
I do own a low torque wrench and high torque wrench as well.
He is closed Saturdays and Sundays and only opens up every Saturday for friends and family. I do all the work myself this way I don't have to pay him for his time. If I get stuck he does help me but I don't like to take up his time.
I do own a low torque wrench and high torque wrench as well.
#9
#10
I bought those tools a long time ago when I did my auto mechanic trade school. Worked a few years doing basic mechanics and 6 months when I was my last year in the army. I did not like the trade so I left it.
I hardly work on cars except my own doing my own maintenance. I used send to garage but now costs alot more than it used to say 20 years ago. So I decided to get back in and start fixing my own cars. It helps when you have a friend who has a fully equipped shop and lets you use it for free. I do give him some cash time to time. However I only use his shop when I really need to. Most of it I do in my driveway except for winter.
I have to keep costs low and make my living with my work cars. Also being a single parent too. I have 3 old cars that are always breaking down for one reason or another so now I have begun doing allot more maintenance on them and they break down allot less.
Paying just for parts is alot cheaper than paying parts and labor. Labor costs here are at $65.00 to $120.00 per hour for most garages. They also charge you at least twice the costs as you buying the part yourself.
Yeh, YouTube bring me back old memories when I used to work on cars all the time. I refer to the videos allot before I do something mayor and don't want to look like a total noob when I'm at my friends garage.
As of now one of my cars broke its timing belt...again some of the valves are all twisted...Its parked in my driveway...my friend said buy the new valves and seals...take the head out and bring over to shop to have them changed..I have not done that in a long time...
I asked a garage how much to fix they said it would be around $2600.00 to $3200.00...the cost of all the parts I need is about $300.00 to $400.00..that is all original parts.
The car is a crappy daewoo nubira but only has $120000 km on it. It has no rust and last year I changed all the suspension and brakes. I bought it new and just can't scrap the thing so I will fix it myself.
I hardly work on cars except my own doing my own maintenance. I used send to garage but now costs alot more than it used to say 20 years ago. So I decided to get back in and start fixing my own cars. It helps when you have a friend who has a fully equipped shop and lets you use it for free. I do give him some cash time to time. However I only use his shop when I really need to. Most of it I do in my driveway except for winter.
I have to keep costs low and make my living with my work cars. Also being a single parent too. I have 3 old cars that are always breaking down for one reason or another so now I have begun doing allot more maintenance on them and they break down allot less.
Paying just for parts is alot cheaper than paying parts and labor. Labor costs here are at $65.00 to $120.00 per hour for most garages. They also charge you at least twice the costs as you buying the part yourself.
Yeh, YouTube bring me back old memories when I used to work on cars all the time. I refer to the videos allot before I do something mayor and don't want to look like a total noob when I'm at my friends garage.
As of now one of my cars broke its timing belt...again some of the valves are all twisted...Its parked in my driveway...my friend said buy the new valves and seals...take the head out and bring over to shop to have them changed..I have not done that in a long time...
I asked a garage how much to fix they said it would be around $2600.00 to $3200.00...the cost of all the parts I need is about $300.00 to $400.00..that is all original parts.
The car is a crappy daewoo nubira but only has $120000 km on it. It has no rust and last year I changed all the suspension and brakes. I bought it new and just can't scrap the thing so I will fix it myself.