1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L - Where is the Air Charge Temp Sensor? (Cold Stalling)
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Amazon.com has the solenoid pack for just $78.00!
Link: www.amazon.com/ATP-TE-6-Automatic-Transmission-Solenoid/dp/B000S34NG6
And here's a great YouTube Video on how to replace the solenoid pack on the a604/41TE:
http://youtu.be/0aSc4SwXF9g
Not sure how reliable this site is, but I found this on code 37 for the a604/41TE transmission:
In addition, this page at AllPar has been very helpful: http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
Link: www.amazon.com/ATP-TE-6-Automatic-Transmission-Solenoid/dp/B000S34NG6
And here's a great YouTube Video on how to replace the solenoid pack on the a604/41TE:
http://youtu.be/0aSc4SwXF9g
Not sure how reliable this site is, but I found this on code 37 for the a604/41TE transmission:
Code 37 - Solenoid switch valve stuck (stuck in L/U position)
Note: The controller sees the SSV stuck in the L/U position in the valve body.
Diagnostic Tip
This code is usually only seen after overhaul. The condition you will get is no 1st after a upshift.
Vehicle will take off in 2nd gear and upshift. Do not confuse this with fail-safe (2nd and reverse only).
There are only 2 things that that will cause this valve to stick.
1. - Over tightening valve body (impact wrench)
2. - Dirt or debris causing restricted cooler (cooler not flushed)
Note: The controller sees the SSV stuck in the L/U position in the valve body.
Diagnostic Tip
This code is usually only seen after overhaul. The condition you will get is no 1st after a upshift.
Vehicle will take off in 2nd gear and upshift. Do not confuse this with fail-safe (2nd and reverse only).
There are only 2 things that that will cause this valve to stick.
1. - Over tightening valve body (impact wrench)
2. - Dirt or debris causing restricted cooler (cooler not flushed)
Last edited by ice; Oct 3, 2011 at 01:21 AM.
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The video is for a newer van but still the same process. FIRST thing you need to do is CLEAN all that crap away from it before you take it off. Pull that rubber cover off of it first. You don't want any of that falling down into the trans when you take the pack off.
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I drove it this morning from a cold start. All the problems are still there on warm up: stalling, surging, etc. Runs great cold and hot. No codes this morning. I'll keep looking. Should I wait to replace the solenoid pack until I get a code?
Also, which interpretation of the code 37 is right for my application (1994 Dodge Gr. Caravan LE 3.3L with A604/41TE tranny?
1. Torque Converter Cluth Solenoid
2. Solenoid switch valve stuck (stuck in L/U position)
Is it possible I just need to retrain the PCM on my transmission? The Chilton "Auto Repair Reference Center" says:
I've disconnected the negative battery cable many times in all my parts-replacing. And I have not had the car out on the open road to re-train the PCM--just in-town test driving.
Also, which interpretation of the code 37 is right for my application (1994 Dodge Gr. Caravan LE 3.3L with A604/41TE tranny?
1. Torque Converter Cluth Solenoid
2. Solenoid switch valve stuck (stuck in L/U position)
Is it possible I just need to retrain the PCM on my transmission? The Chilton "Auto Repair Reference Center" says:
Since the A-604 is equipped with a learning function, each time the battery cable is disconnected the ECM memory is lost. In operation, the transaxle must be shifted many times for the learned memory to be reconstructed by the ECM; during this period the vehicle will experience rough operation. The transaxle must be at normal operating temperature when the learning occurs.
Last edited by ice; Oct 3, 2011 at 05:23 PM.
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Drove it from cold again. Same behavior, no codes. I think I'll take your advice and go ahead and replace the solenoid pack.
I've got a wiring diagram for the transmission. The LR/LU solenoid is the same as the TCC solenoid, correct?
However, there are a few things I can do before replacing the solenoid pack:
1. Test continuity between the LR/LU solenoid connector and the 60-pin connector (pin 20).
2. Clean the gunk off the other connections.
3. Replace the trans control relay (since I have a spare). Supposedly, sometimes relays can act funny at different temps due to expanding and contracting solder.
More explanation of my code 37 and stalling by Wayne Colonna who explains most code 37's are the result of a sticking solenoid switch valve.
Is the TCC valve in the solenoid pack?
I've got a wiring diagram for the transmission. The LR/LU solenoid is the same as the TCC solenoid, correct?
However, there are a few things I can do before replacing the solenoid pack:
1. Test continuity between the LR/LU solenoid connector and the 60-pin connector (pin 20).
2. Clean the gunk off the other connections.
3. Replace the trans control relay (since I have a spare). Supposedly, sometimes relays can act funny at different temps due to expanding and contracting solder.
More explanation of my code 37 and stalling by Wayne Colonna who explains most code 37's are the result of a sticking solenoid switch valve.
If the TCC valve were stuck and the solenoid switch valve stroked properly, a stall condition would occur when the vehicle was coming to a stop.
Last edited by ice; Oct 4, 2011 at 01:14 AM.
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On Saturday, I replaced the solenoid pack.
On Sunday, I started doing a transmission flush. Well, I started taking off the transmission pan. Got off 11 of 12 bolts, but one bolt was stripped. Tried Irwin damaged bolt removers. Tried Vise Grips. Today I tried PB Blaster and a Grab-It bit. I've got a handsome hole drilled in the top of the bolt now, but it won't budge. My neighbor's going to help me cut it with a Dremel tonight. I'm also going to try left-hand drill bits. Hopefully I'll get it out and get the pan off to complete the flush. The tranny fluid I've drained so far is totally black, so I'm glad I'm doing this despite the attendant frustrations.
The bolt is seized/frozen. It has a built-in washer and now has a drill hole in it. Any more ideas to get it out? I don't have a torch or welder.
On Sunday, I started doing a transmission flush. Well, I started taking off the transmission pan. Got off 11 of 12 bolts, but one bolt was stripped. Tried Irwin damaged bolt removers. Tried Vise Grips. Today I tried PB Blaster and a Grab-It bit. I've got a handsome hole drilled in the top of the bolt now, but it won't budge. My neighbor's going to help me cut it with a Dremel tonight. I'm also going to try left-hand drill bits. Hopefully I'll get it out and get the pan off to complete the flush. The tranny fluid I've drained so far is totally black, so I'm glad I'm doing this despite the attendant frustrations.
The bolt is seized/frozen. It has a built-in washer and now has a drill hole in it. Any more ideas to get it out? I don't have a torch or welder.
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I cut off the bolt head with my friend's wheel cutter. Then replaced the tranny oil filter and gasket. Then I flushed the transmission, following the procedure on this page.
Now the van won't go into gear--neither Drive nor Reverse. What's up with that? Do you think I installed the solenoid pack incorrectly?
Now the van won't go into gear--neither Drive nor Reverse. What's up with that? Do you think I installed the solenoid pack incorrectly?
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After cutting off the bolt, it was hard to get a seal on the tranny pan. I first tried using the cut rubber gasket I bought and the pan leaked majorly. Then I tried some tranny pan RTV sealant without the gasket...and the pan is still leaking. I can't get enough fluid to stay in the tranmission to test drive it. However, I did let it idle for a while in park and the engine stalled again during warm up. I got a check engine light, code 32. So...the solenoid pack seems not to have been the problem.
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Finally Junked it
In case anyone is wondering what finally happened...After I went through all the rigmarole of all the parts replacing and the final trans solenoid pack replacement and tranny flush, I couldn't get a good seal on the tranny. I had it towed to another mechanic who said he couldn't do anything without replacing the tranny. I knew that wasn't really true, but he wasn't willing to mess with the problem bolt and seal. It was hard to do after so much effort, time, parts and cash, but I had to cut it loose. I called the junkyard and had it towed. The guy driving the wrecker said they would probably just crush it. So...a weird cold stalling problem that no mechanic could fix and that I couldn't figure out leads to the van getting crushed. Too bad, because I feel like if I could have tackled the problem, the van would have lasted another few years.
Oh well. I don't really have any regrets. And besides, I got a free '97 Gr Caravan from family about a month later. It has its own issues--won't go into gear until warmed up, but that's a small price to pay for free. There must be something about these Caravans and warming up!
Oh well. I don't really have any regrets. And besides, I got a free '97 Gr Caravan from family about a month later. It has its own issues--won't go into gear until warmed up, but that's a small price to pay for free. There must be something about these Caravans and warming up!
