I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.3 that gave me a P0032 code last week... P0032 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1). That was the only code it was giving - no other issues. I picked up a new Bosch sensor this weekend and replaced the 'bad' one and cleared the code out. CEL stayed off for a few minutes then came on and gave me P0135 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1). So now I'm wondering if I should've put a Dodge sensor in since others have reported some issues with aftermarket sensors - or if I should be looking for a problem elsewhere. Ideas? Thanks in advance!

 

you probably want to go with OEM sensor.
Or you just had a bad sensor out of the box. Try waranty a new one, if it doesn't work, then get an OEM sensor.

 

I find bad aftermarket "new" ones all the time for heater codes. Of curse they always get mad at us and not at the people who sold it to them....

 

From prior experience, bosch sensors just aren't always good.

I have used NGK exclusively, or sometimes listed as N T K, rock auto has them at good prices, and never threw any codes.

Never had problems

Denso are also as good.

 

I am having a similar problem on a 2005 GC 3.3. P0032 code, so I checked the sensor and found that the heater was open circuit. OK, replace with an NTK sensor and all was well for a few days, then the P0032 again. I checked the new sensor and found that the heater was high resistance (~400 Ohms). I didn't check before I put it in but I'm assuming it was OK (more like 2-3 Ohms). So, what's going on? Bad sensor? It was an NTK. The parts store got me a new one but I didn't want to throw it in before knowing what was happening. I was vaguely aware that the heater is supposed to be energized only while the engine is warming up, so using the harness off the old sensor, I wired up a 5 Ohm resistor and a 12V lamp on the end of a long wire to replace the burned out heater. I brought the lamp inside the van and went for a drive. The lamp lit when I turned on the ignition, then went out until I started the engine. So far, so good. At least the driver in the PCM seemed ok. But after that the lamp stayed on. I only drove for 10-15 minutes but probably 5 of those were at 120 km/hr (oops sorry - 70 mph. It's Canada here). I assume that heater on continuously means fried heater element.
So, after all that, my question for the techies is: how does the PCM decide to turn off the sensor heater? Coolant temp (it's normal on the dash gauge)? Intake air flow? What could cause it to leave the heater on continuously? Tomorrow I will take a longer drive but I think the results will be the same.
Thanks for your thoughts about this. ( I hope I posted this in the right spot) Cheers, David