Vehicle: 2000 Dodge Caravan (3.0L V6)

I've bled my brakes from all 3 sides and am on the final side (LEFT-FRONT) howver the bleeder screw refuses to budge. The head is close to being rounded. I've tried WD-40, a little heat but no go.

The area it is positioned makes it impossible for plyers and my 3/8" socket is unable to catch nor is a 3/8" open-end wrench.

Any recommendations on how to remove this final stubborn screw?

Thanks

 

PB Blaster (or other catalyst), heat, shock (hammer around the area, be careful) repeat. Shock the bleeder when removing (jerk the wrench to break the taper)

Make sure you are using a 6pt socket or wrench as 12pt is too quick to round off.

Hope some of this helps you. Let us know if you have any other questions.

Regards,
Issakar

 

Try using a 10mm 6 point socket. And if that doesn't work, try cracking the brake line at the caliper.

 

vise grips hope for the best... mine broke and I had to get a new caliper

 

eeeeee, hope it doesn't get that dirty on ya. If you hafta go the vise grip route replace the bleeder be sure to replace the bleeder afterwards, lol.

Regards.

 

The bloody bleed screw STILL refuses to come off. Here are photos of it:





I will attempt the heat/shock approach more aggressively but its not looking good. If i didnt know better i'd swear the bleeder screw and caliper were one solid iron piece. SOB.

Now i'm wondering if the item with the red arrow would be easier to remove and bleed the brakes than the hopeless bleeder screw. Is it ok to bleed from this tube?



I'm even considering calling it quits considering this is the final wheel to bleed but perhaps it is good enough. 3 out of 4 seems ok.

For the record I've also tried using Extractor sockets (3/8"). The 2 types i used were useless. 10mm sockets are too big for the screw.

 

yea that looks pretty chewed up at this point. you need to heat+blaster+shock it.

You could bleed from the line of you can get the line free.

In the past I have used line wrenches to crack bleeders and deepwell sockets.

Another technique I've used on stuck bolts is to heat it up and use wax to lubricate the threads. I don't know that I would recommend doing that on the bleeder but it's another idea.

If you get it loose, replace the bleeder.. I wouldnt personally want to leave it as "3 is good enough" if it were me.

Just my thoughts.
Cheers

 

Considering the location of the bleeder screw and the area to work in how exactly do you guys fit a vice grip in there to clamp onto the bleeder screw? I cant even get my needle nose plyers in there.

 

just try and hope for the best. being as I'm not right in front of it I can't say for sure if you'll even be able to get vise grips on it or not.

Here's my personal opinion: if the bleeder is so stuck that the head has been stripped and chewed up, vise grips probably wont do much but chew it up more. Then again I'e had bad luck with trying to use vise grips.

 

Well, if all else fails, A Reman Caliper is $35 from part store.

I don't think Vise Grip will do anything at this point. and Pipe wrench will definitely not fit.