wipers,radio,heater cutting in/out?
#11
While it is not working, wiggle, tug, and pull on wires below the Fuse Box, if it comes back alive for few second...
I got a feeling you are going to need a New PDC (fuse box). remember to save all fuses and relay from the old one. Maybe the Corossion has eaten your fuse box from the inside alrdy.
Try avoid Junk yard one, you'll end up with same problem.
I got a feeling you are going to need a New PDC (fuse box). remember to save all fuses and relay from the old one. Maybe the Corossion has eaten your fuse box from the inside alrdy.
Try avoid Junk yard one, you'll end up with same problem.
#12
Yeah, it could run like $350 just for the parts. If it will fix the problem, it is what it is. beats buying a new car.
The PDC(TIPM) on Newer cars gets more ridiculous but also common failure.
I highly recommend trying to take the PDC apart for further inspection b4 buying new one.
Definitely try flip the PDC up, wiggle the wires and see if it helps or gets worse, this will confirm a bad PDC.
If battery is in the way, pull the battery out, put it on the ground and run a Jumper cable to start the car.
The PDC(TIPM) on Newer cars gets more ridiculous but also common failure.
I highly recommend trying to take the PDC apart for further inspection b4 buying new one.
Definitely try flip the PDC up, wiggle the wires and see if it helps or gets worse, this will confirm a bad PDC.
If battery is in the way, pull the battery out, put it on the ground and run a Jumper cable to start the car.
#13
Thanks guy's.It's was bought 4 months ago to lug the kids around during the hockey season.prime shape low km's.Then it just falls apart.Struts/mounts,starter,Those ridiculous high pressue power steering lines,belt tensioner,water pump,just got all that done and wham...another 350$ just to keep a 3000$ dodge van on the road.I even took it to a mechanic before I bought it.So what all does taking the PDC apart involve?
I must say,after yesterdays cleaning it doesnt seem as bad but still cut out twice in 10 kms.
thanks again
I must say,after yesterdays cleaning it doesnt seem as bad but still cut out twice in 10 kms.
thanks again
#14
Try a Bottle of Connector cleaners to clean up all your connectors first.
for cleaning oxidation, Connectors cleaners from Parts Store really don't work well. Hit Radio Shack, look for DoexIT connector cleaner, and pick up a Can of Compressed Air "computer/keyboard blower". runs you few bucks, worth a try.
for cleaning oxidation, Connectors cleaners from Parts Store really don't work well. Hit Radio Shack, look for DoexIT connector cleaner, and pick up a Can of Compressed Air "computer/keyboard blower". runs you few bucks, worth a try.
#15
#16
Thanks for the tips.Here is what is going on now.
I have noticed that when the raio,heater blower is cut out and I switch from high beam to low,they come on again for a split second.Also now when I shift from park into reverse or drive,the speedo jumps all over the place and the van kinda lurches and seems to wanna stall a bit.Different symptoms of the same problem??I hope so
I have noticed that when the raio,heater blower is cut out and I switch from high beam to low,they come on again for a split second.Also now when I shift from park into reverse or drive,the speedo jumps all over the place and the van kinda lurches and seems to wanna stall a bit.Different symptoms of the same problem??I hope so
#17
I just called a dealership and enquired about the price for the FCM(459$) and the PDC(446).I was told that not only are those 2 parts year specific,they are also specific to your VIN.?Also was told that 90% of the time you cant just replace the FCM,I would need to buy the PDC as well.I always kinda feel like I am being ripped off by dealers.Could anyone in the know here confirm what I have been told?
thanks
thanks
#18
http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/2x5c...n-correct.html
In this thread moparfl states the FCM does not need to be reprogrammed. This is part of his bio: ASE Master Tech Gold level Chrysler Status 30 years dealership exp
I have read a thread or two where adventurous soles disassemble FCMs then clean and repair them with good results. Same with the PDC but with mixed results. Another 30 year tech says if the PDCs internal circuit board has corrosion, replace the PDC.
If there is any confusion, the combination of the FCM attached to the PDC is called the IPM.
Another thorough cleaning and tweaking the spade pins in the FCM may well be worth it before you throw in the towel and spend the bucks. Spray both the female and male contacts on the PDC/FCM connection then connect and disconnect several times, respraying each time to clean. From your decription of the PDC it sounds like it's toast. The PDC may be all you need. Wouldn't hurt to disassemble and clean it.
In this thread moparfl states the FCM does not need to be reprogrammed. This is part of his bio: ASE Master Tech Gold level Chrysler Status 30 years dealership exp
I have read a thread or two where adventurous soles disassemble FCMs then clean and repair them with good results. Same with the PDC but with mixed results. Another 30 year tech says if the PDCs internal circuit board has corrosion, replace the PDC.
If there is any confusion, the combination of the FCM attached to the PDC is called the IPM.
Another thorough cleaning and tweaking the spade pins in the FCM may well be worth it before you throw in the towel and spend the bucks. Spray both the female and male contacts on the PDC/FCM connection then connect and disconnect several times, respraying each time to clean. From your decription of the PDC it sounds like it's toast. The PDC may be all you need. Wouldn't hurt to disassemble and clean it.
Last edited by Cougar41; 01-11-2012 at 02:44 PM.
#19
I just called a dealership and enquired about the price for the FCM(459$) and the PDC(446).I was told that not only are those 2 parts year specific,they are also specific to your VIN.?Also was told that 90% of the time you cant just replace the FCM,I would need to buy the PDC as well.I always kinda feel like I am being ripped off by dealers.Could anyone in the know here confirm what I have been told?
thanks
thanks
if you want to buy online and save some money.
https://www.dodgeparts.com/index.php
just make sure you Call/email them with your VIN and get the right part number before u order.
#20
Well here's what going on.Changed out the box,cleaned all connections real well.No change?Accesary relay going crazy when clock,blower,wipers ect go out.Clicking like machine gun fire.Change relay same thing.Bang on blower seemed to cut in a few times when we done this.Go and buy a blower,install,no change.Read on here somewhere that someone had the same problem,turned out to be the harness going to the atl.Main power to the alt was very corroded,clean...no difference.Seems to act up 90% of the time when shifting from park into D or R...something in the colum?Ignition?I am at a stand still with no reliable vehicle.