I am planning on doing a full fluid change for the transmission in my 05 Grand Caravan as it still has the factory fluid at 7 years and 112,000km. It shifts perfectly now and I'd like to keep it that way. Normally I'd drop the pan, change the filter, re-fill, then disconnect a fluid line at the cooler and run the engine a few seconds at a time to cycle out the old fluid while repeatedly topping up the transmission. Unfortunately, on this year of Grand Caravan they appear to have threaded fittings on both ends of the transmission cooler lines...
Is there somewhere better to disconnect the system?
Should I just unthread one end and direct it into a bucket?
Which one is the supply and which one is the return?
And finally, does the fluid cycle through the transmission and torque converter before heading to the cooler, or is the cooler the first stop? (That is, will I just be draining my new fluid into the bucket while leaving the old fluid everywhere else?)

Thanks in advance

 

Make sure you have the 41TE or 41AE transmission.....The line nearest the engine is the return line....The bucket trick seems to be your best option....Fluid is picked up through the filter by the pump and regulated oil is sent to the converter IN circuit..As oil comes OUT of the converter it is sent to the cooler, it leaves the cooler as lubrication oil to the gear train of transmission.....Think of it this way, the torque converter is the HOT SPOT of the transmission, so the cooler is used to reduce temperatures coming OUT of the converter....

 

Thanks for the information

Any advice on the threaded fittings bit? I guess you just unthread the one and put it in a bucket? I usually like to cap the nipple I remove the hose from with a rubber boot, I guess I can't do that with the threaded fitting... Do I need to replace any crush washers if I seperate these fittings?

Given where the rubber sections are and how difficult it is to access the fittings on the A/C condenser, perhaps it makes more sense to remove the return line at the transmission itself, it would be easier to redirect from there. I'll just pressure wash the area first to make sure no loose dirt finds its way into the transmission.

 

Just disconnect the fitting and use the hose idea......no need to replace anything here, a leak is highly unlikely.....Capping the fitting is good to keep from anything going in, but nothing is will come out..

 

One more question about this... I checked the Chilton manual (as its the only manual I have access to) and it states that I need to cut the lines right beside the connector then use an unspecified service kit to repair them later, that they cannot simply be unthreaded... This can't be right, can it?

 

I beleieve the service kit was for the early 4th gen vans (2001 & 2002 i believe)
I have the TSB letter here somewhere.
Also, Dorman makes a transmission pan with a drain plug for under $30.00 - good investment.
2001 Chrysler T&C

 

I am getting ready to do this job soon however my cooler lines appear to be threaded fittings on both ends with no hose clamps. You mentioned a TSB, have you been able to locate it?

I found one mention of some rolled thread fittings destroying the hose on removal and requiring new hoses each time they are removed. I hope this is not what I am dealing with. I picked up the dorman pan with drain plug to install so future drain-and-fills should be a lot easier, but I'd still like to get a complete fluid change in this time since I feel it is overdue.

 

I managed to track down a copy of the FSM and I finally have the correct answer according to it:
DO NOT UNTHREAD THE FITTINGS. Simply pull back the dust shields (the plastic discs) and use a disconnect tool to release the fitting, then the tube will pull out with an O-ring on the end, make sure the O-ring is on the tube.

This is how the FSM specifies it should come apart. I'll be picking up the right tools and trying this when I can find the time in the next few weeks.

 

I was just about to say, the lines should have U-shaped clips on the adapters. matco, snap-on, ect make a tool for disconnecting these. You may also find then=m at an automotive parts store. Makes it alot easier.

PS. If you loose a clip.....

 

Looks like just about every parts store in the city has a set of tools for disconnecting these. The FSM shows a 2-prong tool with a round holder that slides along the pipe to release them, but most parts stores have round ones that don't have individual prongs. This style costs half as much as the 2-prong type so I would prefer to buy them if they would work, do you know if they are okay?

The 2-prong type I can find locally would be these:
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...Disconnect-Set
And the round type would be these:
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...nnect-Tool-Set
or these:
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...nnect-Tool-Set