Replace Water Pump '99 Caravan with 3.0 Liter Mitsubishi engine
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06-17-2012, 10:35 PM
Join Date: Jun 2012
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Replace Water Pump '99 Caravan with 3.0 Liter Mitsubishi engine
Here is what you need to remove to get the water pump off off of the engine -- no more.
-- Disconnect battery negative
-- Raise front of van on jack stands
-- Remove RF wheel and spash shields to expose lower front of engine from the wheel well.
-- Loosen radiator cap to remove pressure
-- Remove lower radiator hose from radiator to drain radiator coolant
-- Remove air conditioner pulley from the crankshaft, and remove air conditioner belt and pulley together.
-- Remove the serpentine belt
-- Use impact wrench to loosen the harmonic dampener bolt, and then remove the serpentine pulley bolt from the crankshaft, and remove those components from the crankshaft.
-- Disconnect any electrical harnesses that get in the way, including the one to the air conditioner compressor.
-- Support the bottom of the engine with a jack under the oil pan (pad with a piece of wood).
-- Remove large top bolt and cross bolt from the engine mount. and disconnect engine mount from fender bracket. Also Remove bracket from the fender.
-- Remove the idler pulley for the serpentine belt.
-- Remove two bolts that go through the power steering pump into the front engine mount bracket that is still bolted to the engine. Guide the bolts out through one of the holes in the power steering pump pulley.
-- Go to the rear of the engine, and loosen one mounting bolt for the power steering pump, and remove the other, so that the power steering pump remains there attached loosely, but can be rocked around from the front.
-- Remove harness and nuts that hold the A/C compressor to its bracket, and slide the compressor out enough to access bolts to remove the compressor bracked from the engine. You do NOT need to disconnect the air condition hoses. Just let the compressor hang hang there.
-- Despite what some instructions say, you do not need to loosen the alternator or its bracket.
-- Remove the remainder of the bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the front of the engine. One long bolt might have trouble getting past the top of the inner fender. If so, raise the engine slightly with its jack until it clears and the bolt can be removed.
-- Take the engine mount support bracket off the front of the engine. You’ll need to tilt it away from the engine on the right side (as you look at it) and guide it out from behind the power steering pump pulley, which should be loose enough to give sufficient room to guide it out..
-- Remove the covers for the timing belt.
-- Suggest you get the timing belt pulley marks aligned to their pulley positions. Then put a mark on each pulley and a mark on the timing belt at the corresponding space on the timing belt. This will help when you put the belt back on. Even if you decide to put a new timing belt on, later you can lay them both on the floor and count the teeth to put the same marks on the new belt in the same place, to match the marks on the pulleys you put there earlier, when you install the new belt.
-- Remove the timing belt tensioner spring
-- Remove the timing belt.
-- Remove the water pump.
The water pump is held onto the engine by the larger bolts, mostly around the lower half of the pump going straight into the front of the engine, and one larg bolt coming down vertically into the top of the pump through a strap plate that is bolted to the alternator bracket. All of the smaller bolts around the top do NOT have to be removed at all to remove the water pump from the engine. The smaller bolts are only there to hold the two halves of the water pump together, along with a screw coming in from the back of the pump. These can be removed later, once the water pump is off the car.
-- The water pump should pull straight out and off. It is pushed on a water pipe to the engine with a rubber seal, so you might have to work it a little to get it to pull out forward.
--While the water pump is off, you might consider putting on a new timing belt, and a new lower crankshaft seal, and maybe new front cam seals. Instructions to change these can be found elsewhere on the internet.
-- Reassemble in reverse order.
-- When torquing the large harmonic balancer bolt while reinstalling, buy two longish bolts to put into the crankshaft where the serpentine belt pulley bolts to the front damper. These can be used with a bar to keep the crankshaft from rotating while torquing the damper bolt.
-- Dealers say this is a 4.5 hour labor job. Maybe if you’ve done several of them, you might be able to do in that time. I’d plan for at least twice that long.
tq
-- Disconnect battery negative
-- Raise front of van on jack stands
-- Remove RF wheel and spash shields to expose lower front of engine from the wheel well.
-- Loosen radiator cap to remove pressure
-- Remove lower radiator hose from radiator to drain radiator coolant
-- Remove air conditioner pulley from the crankshaft, and remove air conditioner belt and pulley together.
-- Remove the serpentine belt
-- Use impact wrench to loosen the harmonic dampener bolt, and then remove the serpentine pulley bolt from the crankshaft, and remove those components from the crankshaft.
-- Disconnect any electrical harnesses that get in the way, including the one to the air conditioner compressor.
-- Support the bottom of the engine with a jack under the oil pan (pad with a piece of wood).
-- Remove large top bolt and cross bolt from the engine mount. and disconnect engine mount from fender bracket. Also Remove bracket from the fender.
-- Remove the idler pulley for the serpentine belt.
-- Remove two bolts that go through the power steering pump into the front engine mount bracket that is still bolted to the engine. Guide the bolts out through one of the holes in the power steering pump pulley.
-- Go to the rear of the engine, and loosen one mounting bolt for the power steering pump, and remove the other, so that the power steering pump remains there attached loosely, but can be rocked around from the front.
-- Remove harness and nuts that hold the A/C compressor to its bracket, and slide the compressor out enough to access bolts to remove the compressor bracked from the engine. You do NOT need to disconnect the air condition hoses. Just let the compressor hang hang there.
-- Despite what some instructions say, you do not need to loosen the alternator or its bracket.
-- Remove the remainder of the bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the front of the engine. One long bolt might have trouble getting past the top of the inner fender. If so, raise the engine slightly with its jack until it clears and the bolt can be removed.
-- Take the engine mount support bracket off the front of the engine. You’ll need to tilt it away from the engine on the right side (as you look at it) and guide it out from behind the power steering pump pulley, which should be loose enough to give sufficient room to guide it out..
-- Remove the covers for the timing belt.
-- Suggest you get the timing belt pulley marks aligned to their pulley positions. Then put a mark on each pulley and a mark on the timing belt at the corresponding space on the timing belt. This will help when you put the belt back on. Even if you decide to put a new timing belt on, later you can lay them both on the floor and count the teeth to put the same marks on the new belt in the same place, to match the marks on the pulleys you put there earlier, when you install the new belt.
-- Remove the timing belt tensioner spring
-- Remove the timing belt.
-- Remove the water pump.
The water pump is held onto the engine by the larger bolts, mostly around the lower half of the pump going straight into the front of the engine, and one larg bolt coming down vertically into the top of the pump through a strap plate that is bolted to the alternator bracket. All of the smaller bolts around the top do NOT have to be removed at all to remove the water pump from the engine. The smaller bolts are only there to hold the two halves of the water pump together, along with a screw coming in from the back of the pump. These can be removed later, once the water pump is off the car.
-- The water pump should pull straight out and off. It is pushed on a water pipe to the engine with a rubber seal, so you might have to work it a little to get it to pull out forward.
--While the water pump is off, you might consider putting on a new timing belt, and a new lower crankshaft seal, and maybe new front cam seals. Instructions to change these can be found elsewhere on the internet.
-- Reassemble in reverse order.
-- When torquing the large harmonic balancer bolt while reinstalling, buy two longish bolts to put into the crankshaft where the serpentine belt pulley bolts to the front damper. These can be used with a bar to keep the crankshaft from rotating while torquing the damper bolt.
-- Dealers say this is a 4.5 hour labor job. Maybe if you’ve done several of them, you might be able to do in that time. I’d plan for at least twice that long.
tq
#3
05-22-2013, 10:06 AM
