Have been waiting for some info on P0172. I posted this one day last week and did get one answer saying that the question is been checked out. I think that maybe I don't know how to use this forum correctly as I can't seem to get back to my question to see if I have any suggestions or answer. I am trying this one more time hoping for a comeback. I don't want to have to put the van in a auto shop and find out it was a simple solution that I could have fixed but having to pay a few hundred dollars for the repair. I will have to do put my van in the shop if I don't get any answers today as like most of us, I need the use of my van. Thank you. Once again, I am very grateful to all that helps me in this problem.

Jimmy

 

Your previous thread is here. User Cougar41 explained where your MAP sensor is located and provided a link to where more information could be found. If that link didn't help you, you can also Google "P0172" for other suggested fixes (it's a universal code across all vehicle manufacturers).

Please note that although some members of this forum may work for Chrysler/Dodge or its dealerships/service centers, everyone on here is a volunteer; this forum is not an "operators are standing by" service staffed by a panel of experts. It's entirely possible that no one else knew how to help you. If you have an urgent repair matter that you want to research before dropping money at a mechanic/dealership, Google is your friend, and posting on multiple forums is a good idea as well. Sorry to be blunt, but that's just the nature of the beast.

 

You want to save money. Got it. We all do.

Simple things to check? Inspect vacuum lines on top of engine for cracks or chafes. Cracks usually appear near connections. Inspect sensor connections for loose/corroded connections. Spray with contact cleaner and reseat several times. Which sensors and where? ECT coolant temp sensor left side top behind and left of radiator hose connection. Upstream O2 sensor back of engine on exhaust manifold. You know about the MAP sensor. BTW - Youtube has videos describing how to test these sensors.

Any other symptoms like hard starting especially first start of the day? Heavy fuel smell? Smoke out the exhaust? Hissing noise, etc.

Not a good idea to drive the van with a flashing CE light. That indicates the cat converter (pricey) is overheating and eating itself. Pull over let it cool a good 20 minutes before heading home. Better yet get this thing fixed before you fork out another $500-$1000 to replace the cat.

 

I apologize for being so impatient. I am so frustrated right now, because it has been two things after another with both of the Dodge vans, 2001 & 2005, that I have. Just thinking of having to put the van in a repair shop gets me really upset. The last time I had to put my 2005 van in the shop to replace the spark plugs and wires, didn’t think I would be able to get to the spark plugs in the back, it cost me $400.00 and I had supplied the plugs and wires. Turned out that I was given the wrong plug wires and in the interest of time, had to get the wires from the auto shop which were twice what I had paid for them at PepBoys. I am not a certified ASE mechanic but have been working on cars since I was a teenager. Am now 71. Guess I am getting a little cranky in my old age. I do appreciate very much any and all help that I get on this forum. Thanks again.

Jimmy B

 

I think Forbe Published at Article about Average CEL repair cost between $400-$800 depending on Vehicle Make and Model on a research.
And Car ownership is roughly about $8,000 per year on a large vehicle, including Depreciation, Gasoline, insurance, taxes and fees, maintenance and Repair.

There really isn't much you can do about the cost of repair.

And regarding that P0172 code is Fuel System Rich.

That's a really Uncommon code. I think you should take it to a shop with appropriate equipment to diagnose it instead of throw a part at it because someone on the internet said so.

Which car is the one having problem? the 2005 or 2001? I think the 2001 one have problem with injector harness melting together and dump fuel into the engine. But if it is our 2005... there really aren't any common problem related to that code I've seen yet. Can't really help you here.

 

"There really isn't much you can do about the cost of repair." What did you say! Really Steak? Did you really mean to say that Steak? I can't imagine you did. Come on!

 

Sorry, Meant to say Cost of Car ownership. I need to start proof read myself. Lol.

Well, the only thing you can do is find a mechanic you can trust, and stick with them when it comes to maint and repair. Some stuff we really just need to get it done at a place with experience and all the equipment needed.

But regarding that $400 tune up is a little steep. I wonder where he lives. Because considering the "Supposedly Most expensive" in town Dealership I work for charge like $270-$300 parts and labor for wires and plugs.

 

Can't you lump "cost of repairs" into "car ownership"? Well anyway, me thinkst you saw the light -

 

UPDATE
Well, I ended up having my van towed to the garage I have all work done that I can't do. Here is a breakdown of the cost and what was done.
Diagnostic Testing as Necessary $147.20 They came up with codes P0300, P0306, P0302 and P0301. (They never came up with the code that I got which was P0172 and I came up with that code with two different OBD scanners?) Scope check shows high kv's on most cylinders & low coil oscillations. Emissions check shows high hc. Visual Shows plugs worn, wires burn marks. Throttle body dirty. They recommend fuel injection, air induction service and new fuel filter. Did not have that work performed. Did have new plugs and wires replaced. Labor for replacing spark plugs, $147.20, plug wires, 73.60. Plugs cost $67.08 and wires $64.95. With taxes and junk fees, the total was $521.20. Not bad for having the plugs and wires replace. :-( I just R&R both strut/coil spring/mount assembles and both stabilizer bars on same van and parts cost me $297.36 from Rockauto. Would be afraid to have had them put in by the garage. Again, thanks for all the come backs.

 

Steak59
Thanks for the comeback. First of all, the code P0172 was from the 2001 Caravan. As of my post of 06/18, things have gone down hill. After having the plugs and wires replace, the van did run properly for about a week and a half, then I had the same problem. No power and engine miss firing in that the engine has the shakes. Had the van taken back to another repair shop (AAA Approved) this time. They came up with the diagnose that I either needed to replace the PCM or #2 & 6 injectors. They said that they could not determine which it was. Had the van towed back home as I can do that work. I chose to do the easy one of replacing the PCM. That didn't work either. I am now going to change the injectors but will as you said, check the injector harness to see if it has melted together. I will also check and see if I still get the codes P302 & 306.
Now, if I may. On my 2005 Grand Caravan, same engine, 3.8L. I also had a code of P305. Had the plugs and wires replaced. Engine light was off after that, but again, after so may starts, the engine light came back on, same code. The only other thing I did on this van was to R&R the ignition coil. No change, engine light came back on. Oh, one other thing. Ever since we bought the van new, every so often, while driving down the highway, the van will just shut off. This has done this maybe 8 times. We have taken the van to the dealer but, yes you guessed it. It has to do it's thing while it is in the shop or being road tested. Did do it while at the shop. Thank God my wife, who drives the van 99% of the time, has not been involved in an accident because of the van shutting down, as it has happened a few times while driving on the beltway that goes around Washington, DC. I'm just about ready to pull my hair out concerning both Grand Caravans. Any help appreciated and grateful for comments. Thanks
Jimmy B