Hello:

I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.3 L engine. Turning from one street to another, without any symptoms (i.e. stalling, hesitation) my van died. It was as if the ignition was turned off. Coasting to the side of the street I put the van in park and attempted to start the car. I had dash lights (including trip and speedometer displays) when the key was in the “run” position. When I cycled the key all the way to the “start’ position the starter would not engage. All other electrical systems (interior blower fan, radio) work. Interior lights and headlights were bright and did not react (dim) when I turned the key to the start position. I had the car towed home and I placed the battery on a charger overnight. Tried the “key dance” method of reading codes but the car would not enter diagnostic mode and/or would not display codes.

I have checked the following

Battery is fully charged
Per other tests outlined on this site

· Starter and ADC relays click when key turned to start
·

Fuse # 10 (ignition position f23 on PDC) blown
·

Fuse #104 (starter relay) good


· Swapped Starter relay with another relay just to check


· Removed starter relay and jumped contacts #30 and #87 – starter spun engine without key in ignition


· Checked for 12vdc at contact #86 of the starter relay circuit with the key turned to start. No Voltage
·
My best guess is the ignition switch has a fault which may have caused the 10 amp ignition switch fuse (F23 on the PDC) to blow. A possibly bad switch may also be the cause of the failure, when using the “key dance” method, to get the car to display codes. Key turns easily in the cylinder. I would be very appreciative of any advice or suggestions. Thank you in advance.

Joe

 

I installed a new 10amp fuse in the PDC at fuse position 23. The car cranked and started as normal. Restarted several times with no problem. Only code to display after the "key dance" was 1684 (battery disconnect with 50 starts).

I would like to call it a day but instinct and experience tell me this will happen again. My suspicion is the ignition switch but there could be a wiring problem causing a short as well.

Any advice still greatly appreciated.

Joe

 

Well I could not leave well enough alone. I changed out the ignition switch as a precaution following the instructions of the shop manual I have for the car. The car will not crank and consistently blows the 10 amp fuse referenced above. I reinstalled the old switch but every time I try to start the car there is no crank and the fuse blows (f 23 on the PDC). The starter will spin if I jump the starter with a wire at the PDC by removing the starter relay and jumping #30 and #87. Pretty much back at square one. Not getting any codes.

 

As you said, it was going to happen again anyway. One fairly common problems with these vans is corrosion in the PDC box, generally inside and not visible until the IPM is removed. I don't recall anyone posting the corrosion causing that fuse to blow, but I guess there's always a first time. In any case it's an easy thing to check. If that turns out to not be the problem, you'll need to get a wiring diagram and try to track down the short.

 

Thank you cv2003, I will check the PDC. I am guessing, when I changed out the ignition switch I disturbed the wire(s) with a short and that is causing the problem. Good news, there are only five wires from the ignition switch. I will keep you posted.

Joe

 

I finally relented and took my van to a professional. Several weeks later he is stumped as well. He did move the wiring harness around looking for an obvious short with no success. He did note there was a good amount of tension on the plug connected to the ignition coil. He adjusted the wires to relieve the "tightness". PDC connection seemed clean and the ECM and PDC checked out okay.

For better or worse the car has had no trouble starting nor has it blown a fuse. With a car which starts with no problem I am perplexed. I am sure the problem will repeat itself. I will continue to look for an obvious short.

Any advice still greatly appreciated!

 

Hopefully the technician resolved the issue when he adjusted the plug to the ignition coil. Keep us posted.

 

Just to wrap up my question. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I am going to have to guess the "tightness" of the wiring harness pulling on the plug at the ignition coil was the cause of my problems. The car has started and run now for several months with no repeat.

From my experience, check the plug at the ignition coil and then check the condition of the wiring harness as it come out of the firewall and into the engine compartment.