All I am getting is clicks from the solenoid when I turn the key. It was starting and not starting for awhile. I would get it to start by tapping on the fuse box and then turn the key and it would fire up. That lasted a few weeks and I figured I would be able to find the problem once it stopped working altogether. Well it isn't starting now and I can't find the problem. I changed solenoids around with others to check, and that didn't help. Checked power from the wiring where the solenoid goes. Checked continuity to the yellow/greyline wire going to the starter. It was good. I checked power to the start. There was power there. I put the key in the run position and jumped a hot wire from the battery to the starter. It turned over but wouldn't start. I don't know if the fuel is not there to start because of wiring, maybe no spark because of wiring or what. Still will not turn over by the key alone. Don't know what to check next. Thanks for the ideas in advance !!

 

Time for some deciphering.

" I changed solenoids around with others to check, and that didn't help."
You must mean you swapped RELAYS around. The fuse box (IPM) contains relays, not solenoids. The only solenoid in the system is built into the starter. So....you proved the starter relay isn't the problem.

"Checked power from the wiring where the solenoid goes."
You checked power from the starter relay? From the starter relay to the starter??????

"Checked continuity to the yellow/greyline wire going to the starter. It was good."
Ok got that.

"I checked power to the start. There was power there."
Did you check battery power or power to the solenoid connection with the key turned to start? On the starter the bigger stud/wire is battery feed power and should have a constant 12vdc. The smaller stud/wire (your yellow/grey wire) should have 12vdc with the key at start.

" I put the key in the run position and jumped a hot wire from the battery to the starter. It turned over but wouldn't start."
You jumped power to the solenoid contact on the starter correct? It won't start. It will only turn over when you jump it that way. At least you proved the starter will turn over when the starter solenoid gets power and actuates.

All that said, what's next? Let's look at the ignition switch. It has several contacts in it so don't think that because dash lights come on etc the switch is good. You have to verify the actual start position contact is good. Here's how. Remove the starter relay in the IPM. Connect a volt meter to contact #86 and to ground (numbers are on the bottom of the relay). Should see 12vdc EVERYTIME you turn the key to start. If you see it, the switch is good.

Jumping battery power to the starter bypasses too much wiring. Here's a better way. Remove the starter relay. Jump contacts 30 and 87 on the relay socket. The starter should spin right away, keys in your pocket. Let us know.

 

I've been out for the last 24 hours. I just got this and I'll try your wiring to check the starter with the RELAY out... Brain freeze thinking starter and solenoid... I'll get back after I try that.. Thanks

 

HI !!
I did the two test you said and they both worked as you said.


Power to 86 when turning the key


Turning over when connecting 30 to 87


If you have a chance to send the next steps to test, that would be great.


Thanks
Joe

 

I did the power to 86 when turning key
and turning over when connecting 30 to 87
what should I do next
Thanks
Joe

 

some please help me out, I was planning on taking our family caravan out for the weekend... :-)

 

Nobody else on the forum could help you with this. Hmm. I've been on the road all day. Being away from home I don't have access to my usual sources so I can't give much detailed info.

You've proven the ign switch, starter and much of the circuit wiring are good. When the PCM detects your tranny is in park or neutral and if the security system is functioning correctly, the PCM will provide a ground to the coil in the starter relay. The coil then closes the relay output contacts allowing voltage to flow to the starter. If you hear the solenoid on the starter click then all that is happening. If it's not clicking you may have a bad park signal out of the transmission range sensor inside the tranny, a malfunctioning security system (red light on the dash) or as in many cases, the PCM is bad.

Have you checked for fault codes with a scanner or key dance?

No red security system light on the dash correct?

 

I think it's fair to say that this one is less active than some of the other auto forums. That's not a complaint or criticism - it is what it is. But because of that, I often skip reading this one for a couple of days, because there are normally very few really active threads (i.e. multiple posts per day), and it doesn't take very long to catch up. I'm guessing that's probably true for some of the other members who are also on other forums which are quite a bit more active than this one.

Reading through this thread from the top, I don't see anywhere where the battery was actually tested, so I'll ask that question because this has the characteristics of a bad battery and/or alt. Was the battery checked with a meter or battery tester? And was it load-tested at some point when it did run? How about a jump start - was that ever attempted?

 

Won't be able to contact you till Monday. You and I are missing something so the more eyes on this the better. Try Chryslerminivan.net and Allpar.com. Both forums have plenty of experienced people including techs. Imperialcrown at Allpar is one guy I consider a guru on these vans. He's been a tech for decades. There are others who are very knowledgeable. Make sure you state you've tested the starter and the ignition switch from the starter relay socket.

What else? Try a little of what I call monkey work. Turn the key to start and shake the wire harness at the IPM. In fact, this started with you tapping the IPM and getting it to start. Consider removing and disassembling it looking for burn marks or corrosion on the internal circuit board. It's got a history. Check the PCM connections located forward in the drivers wheel well behind the liner. Before any of this disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable to prevent electrical damage while disconnecting/reconnecting connections.

Have you tried just disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes? This will sometimes reset stubborn microprocessors. There is a wire bundle that runs under the battery on some models. It is often damaged by battery acid dripping on it. May be worth a look. There is another running behind and over the engine that often melts and damages the wires. I believe it was rerouted on the 05s but may be worth a look anyway.

cv2003 - An inactive forum?Try automotiveforums.com - a real snoozer.

The battery? Well you can't count anything out at this point even though it cranked the engine when jumped at the relay socket. If you saw any signs whatsoever that it may be weak, cv2003 may be on to something.

 

I checked for a code and there was none. I turned the key to start and nothing but clicks from the relays. Leanlving the key in the run position there was a little red dot on the bottom right corner of the dash. Is that the security light you mentioned? If so how do I get rid of it ? Thanks people.