If I change the instrument cluster, will the total Mileage change? Anyway to preserve that data?

 

Depends on the state you live in. Here in California, the cluster mileage needs to match the mileage that the old cluster has. The real mileage is in the black box where all the data is kept. Only the dealer has that access to change the mileage, and 99.9% will not change it.

 

Ok. Not such a basket-case anymore . Completed most of the repairs so I thought I would post an update since I hate how some people post requests for help and never provide a solution or update.

I fixed most of the electrical gremlins except for the power sliding door. That is low priority for me so I am just going to leave the fuse out. Headlights no longer dim while driving.

A/C blows ice cold (front & rear). I replaced every single o-ring in the system as well as the front expansion valve. Added dye to the system so I can occasionally check for leaks but so far so good!

Replaced valve cover seals so no more oil leaks.

Shifter has fixed itself somehow because it now shifts smoothly. I think it just sat for too long.

Both the inner tie rods were shot so I replaced them but that still hasn't solved the clunking sound I'm getting from the front right. My guess is strut tower or sway bar bushing..

I replaced the plugs with Champion Double Platinum (gapped at .050")as well as the wires but that created a new problem. The engine ran nice and strong before but now it skips and sputters. I took off the new wires and put the originals back on but that didn't solve anything so it must be the new plugs. The plugs that came off were badly worn and some had .070 gaps - but still the motor ran smooth. Also, the plugs that came off had no markings so I have no idea what kind (manufacturer) they are.

I still have a spongy pedal and that worries me because I bled the entire system using my vacuum bleeder taking care to never let the master cylinder go dry. There is clear fresh DOT 3 fluid throughout the entire system but still the pedal is spongy. I've done dozens of brake jobs before including on my 99 Durnango and never had a spongy pedal like this. Could the rear drums be out of adjustment? I noticed two small plugged holes on the bottom of the drum cover so I assume the drums can be adjusted. It looks difficult to get in there to adjust the drums - nothing like my Durango.

 

Ok - Another update.

Replaced the new Champion plugs with NGK V-Powers and the motor now nuns very smooth! There must have been a defective champion plug in there but no way to find out since they all look good on the outside.

I fixed the spongy brake pedal by adjusting the rear shoes. I had to dissemble the shoes in the back to remove the adjuster because both of the adjusters were frozen solid. So I cleaned them up on a wire wheel and slathered them with anti-seize and made them nice and tight. Van stops on a dime.

One more problem - After I thought I was all done last night I wanted to take it for one more drive. As soon as I got in the van, turned on the motor, and then turned on the AC I heard a high pitched noise from the front end and then cold air stopped blowing. I took out my UV tester and saw no leaks anywhere so I went down and grabbed the A/C compressor clutch and it turned (so the compressor wasn't seized) but the clutch feels all wobbly and loose. So it seems like all I need is a new clutch and there are instructions on the web on how to replace it without removing the compressor from the motor.

 

Good to see your successes

 

Got the AC fixed. The outer clutch piece (hub) was shot so all I had to do is repace it from a spare compressor I had kicking around. Was able to do everything from below the car without removing the compressor so I didn't have to evacuate the refrigerant. This site has helped me immensely with the clutch job: http://www.freeengineinfo.com/dodge-...eplacement.htm