how do i change the transmision fluid/filter on my 2011 dodge grand caravan

 

if you do a search come up. theres really not much you can do unless you can read the temperature of the transmission, have the correct transmission dip stick, and the chart that tells you what the temperature corresponding to the dip sticks measurement is correct.

 

If it's one of the ones with the plug drain first, if not unbolt the pan, you'll want an 10qt+ drain-pan to handle any tilt. Swap filter and o-ring, use brake cleaner on pan and magnet stuck to pan and remove all deposits.

Use certified ATF+4(Autozone is the cheapest).

If you want to do it like a pro, and extend the life of your trans, do a flush to get trapped fluid and fluid in the torque converter. Shops are known for using cheap un-certified or even wrong grade(it matters because this is hydraulic fluid basically) trans fluid..

 

ive read everywhere DO not do a flush on the trans or you asking for issues. just pull filter.

 

Even if the dealer does it? What's wrong with a tranny flush?

 

people have had issues with flushing cause it bascally takes the dirt all out of the tranny. although it moves it to areas that cause damage too like the friction disc and such. where as a filter picks up the dirt and then u remove it and replace keeping the dirt out of the sensitive places.

 

I've never head of such issues with trannies. If you don't do it you actually keep full fluid in the converter, and a lot of fluid in parts of the pan and internals. All of that has deposits.

Flushing engine oil IS bad because it upsets worn valve seals, head gaskets, and cleans out worn main bearings..

I could see it being an issue if the shop doesn't use clean flush fluid, doesn't run it long enough, or uses wrong trans fluid. I've seen wrong trans fluid reported the most; this trend is shared with radiator flushes.

 

trans flush is hard on transmissions that don't have the fluid regularly changed. As the fluid wears, it becomes acidic. New trans fluid has a higher pH than old, worn out fluid. That old fluid changes the pH of the clutches over time, and when you add new fluid to the trans, the clutches react with the new fluid.

It's SORTA like when you add vinegar to baking soda (extreme example). One is an acid (low pH, vinegar, old trans fluid) and one is basic (higher pH, baking soda, new trans fluid).

 

In this discussion of fluid flushing, no one is describing exactly what type of "flush" they're talking about. Some folks say flush, when they really mean "transfer", where the van's own pump is used to swap old fluid for new via the the tranny cooler hoses. In multiple forums for different vehicles, this method seems go be generally accepted by most everyone. OTOH a 'power" flush, using an external pump to drive the fluid through the tranny at higher velocity, is the one that gets the thumbs-down from most DIYers.

For the OP and your original question - why are you thinking about doing this on a 2011? Unless you're in the extreme condiditons group (lots of towing, etc.), or have way more miles than expected in 3-4 years, it's way too soon to change this fluid (even just a pan drop and swap). ATF+4 is REALLY good $hit, and will go at least 100K miles for normal driving, and usually quite a bit more than that as well.

 

I would of banked on it being bad for control-valve seals. Clutches are made of dense composites and alloys..