I just picked up a 02 Town and Country, 3.3L Flex fuel. It runs great but its hard starting... You have to sit there and crank it over and over while holding the throttle open alittle to get it to start. Once it starts its very low idle no throttle response for afew seconds then it revs up on its own and is fine.. No issues at slow or high speed just hesitation taking off and the hard start, No codes, no pending codes.. i am 350miles away from my tools, I only have basic tools with me as i picked it up for my mother. I am gonna go to the junk yard and pick up some spare parts like throttle sensor, IAC, etc. what would be your thoughts?

 

Cycle the key from off to on/run (not start) 3 or 4 times before turning to start. This will re pressurize a depleted fuel system incase you have a leak or a weak pump. If it starts easier consider sticking a fuel pressure gauge on it signed out from Autozone or Pepboys. If it's out of spec (55psi +/5) you'll need a new pump. If it's in spec you may have a leak external to the tank or a leaking fuel injector. The plastic pump housing on top of the tank is a known crack magnet.

Clean the throttle body and grab a MAP sensor while you're there. No tools? Just remove the air duct and thoroughly spray TB cleaner around and behind the throttle plate. Once it gets up to speed does it idle ok?

 

I swapped the throttle body with Throttle sensor, IAC sensor, Checked MAP, everything checks out. Gonna pick up a fuel gauge tomorrow and see. But once running it idle and runs fine...

 

Have you pulled a couple of the front plugs to check out how they look? If the plugs look bad and need to be replaced, you will need to decide how to do the 3 on the backside. Many of us feel it's a much easier job to remove the wiper tray first. However, some guys can get to them without removing anything else first - I think being tall with long arms is a big advantage with this job.
Beyond that, the melted injector harness is a very well-know issue with the early gen 4 ('02 included). The only way to check for this is to lift (but not remove) the power steering reservoir, remove the outer wiring bundle wrap, and then examine each wire individually for melting. There is a blind bolt underneath the reservoir which I get to by snaking 9" or so of extensions through the wires and onto the bolt head, starting at the firewall. That said, your symptoms don't sound like the ones ususally reported with the melted harness, but it's such a common thing with these vans that you should check this out at some point.

 

I am figuring the fuel pump, I got the tester, priming the pump i get 5PSI and looses it right away, after cycling the key afew times it starts right up but the gauge only shows about 22psi running...

 

The fuel pump was the issue, changed it and no more hard starts but now i am getting two codes,P1193 and P0172... Codes came up as i was heading to go change the pump on my uncles lift..

 

Thinking the P0172 might be the gumout i put in the tank....

 

Nice job being without your tools and another reason this forum rocks

 

Thanks, I am still sorting out a driveability issue.. I got the codes gone, I am leaving tomorrow and it seems only one last issue, While driving it feels like it is bucking alittle when being lite on the pedal. Its really hard to describe. Feels like slop/play in the CV axles, but i get no clicking or anything out of them.

 

Vacuum leaks or a malfunctioning EGR valve can cause those symptoms.