[4th Gen : 01-07]: van problem
hey guys
i have a 2003 grand caravan sport 3.8 v6 the van had died on me a wouldnt start when i turned the key everything would light up but didnt turn over so someone suggested it was the ignition switch i replaced that then they said nutrual safety switch so i just replaced the trans i also replaced the starter and still will not start i also replaced the trans computer an nothing im at a lost can anyone please help me
i have a 2003 grand caravan sport 3.8 v6 the van had died on me a wouldnt start when i turned the key everything would light up but didnt turn over so someone suggested it was the ignition switch i replaced that then they said nutrual safety switch so i just replaced the trans i also replaced the starter and still will not start i also replaced the trans computer an nothing im at a lost can anyone please help me
How was all of this troubleshot or was it? I can only hope you're not telling us a lot.
Simple stuff first. Takes very little amperage to light up the dash. Takes a lot to turn a starter. Check the battery with a voltmeter connected across the battery posts. Should see at least 12.3 volts DC engine off. Less than that have the battery charged or replaced. Make sure the battery terminal connections are clean and tight. Have the battery load tested. All that's good?
Does the starter relay in the IPM click when you turn the key to start? If yes then the ign switch, neutral safety switch (actually the TRS in the transmission) are good and the PCM is supplying the ground to the relay coil. That proves the control side of the starter relay circuit is good. Now check the relay's output circuit. Remove the starter relay. Using a piece of wire jump contacts 30 and 87 on the now empty relay socket. Numbers are on the bottom of the relay. The starter should spin right away. No keys needed. Check all that and let us know.
Anyone check the ignition and starter fuses?
Simple stuff first. Takes very little amperage to light up the dash. Takes a lot to turn a starter. Check the battery with a voltmeter connected across the battery posts. Should see at least 12.3 volts DC engine off. Less than that have the battery charged or replaced. Make sure the battery terminal connections are clean and tight. Have the battery load tested. All that's good?
Does the starter relay in the IPM click when you turn the key to start? If yes then the ign switch, neutral safety switch (actually the TRS in the transmission) are good and the PCM is supplying the ground to the relay coil. That proves the control side of the starter relay circuit is good. Now check the relay's output circuit. Remove the starter relay. Using a piece of wire jump contacts 30 and 87 on the now empty relay socket. Numbers are on the bottom of the relay. The starter should spin right away. No keys needed. Check all that and let us know.
Anyone check the ignition and starter fuses?
Last edited by Cougar41; Dec 4, 2016 at 03:55 PM.
Ok. Just need to know if the starter relay is clicking when you turn the key to start. Listen to it closely. Put your finger on it while someone turns the key. Other relays may click so make sure it's the starter relay that clicks.
If you hear a click from the bottom side of the engine that is probably the starter solenoid in the starter. If that clicks, the starter relay has to be clicking because the starter relay supplies power to the starter solenoid.
If you hear a click from the bottom side of the engine that is probably the starter solenoid in the starter. If that clicks, the starter relay has to be clicking because the starter relay supplies power to the starter solenoid.
Last edited by Cougar41; Dec 5, 2016 at 08:27 PM.
Yuck! I was expecting a no click report. You've proven the start circuit, the battery, starter, PCM, ignition switch, fuses and transmission range sensor are good - at least in my book. I'm right where you are - stumped.
One thing to check is to verify the starter solenoid is getting 12vdc from the starter relay with the relay installed using a multi meter and the key turned to start. Positive probe on the smaller gauge wire connection of the two connections on the starter and the negative probe to any chassis ground. If you see 12 volts tap on the starter with a tool. Installing new bad starters isn't unheard of.
One more thing. When you jumped 30 and 87 at the relay socket and the starter rotated, it rotated the engine fine and it sounded normal correct? In other words, the engine wasn't seized correct?
I've posted your predicament on another forum. The more eyes on this the better. Hope to get an answer soon.
One thing to check is to verify the starter solenoid is getting 12vdc from the starter relay with the relay installed using a multi meter and the key turned to start. Positive probe on the smaller gauge wire connection of the two connections on the starter and the negative probe to any chassis ground. If you see 12 volts tap on the starter with a tool. Installing new bad starters isn't unheard of.
One more thing. When you jumped 30 and 87 at the relay socket and the starter rotated, it rotated the engine fine and it sounded normal correct? In other words, the engine wasn't seized correct?
I've posted your predicament on another forum. The more eyes on this the better. Hope to get an answer soon.
Last edited by Cougar41; Dec 6, 2016 at 05:40 PM.
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Well now I'm looking for a straight jacket. That says the starter is getting the power it should and your starter is bad. You and I know you've changed the starter and you have proven the new starter will spin by jumping 30 and 87 at the relay. Still stumped.
Last edited by Cougar41; Dec 9, 2016 at 12:16 AM.



