[2nd Gen : 91-95]: 94 stalling at slow speeds
#1
94 stalling at slow speeds
Hey all, I have a 1994 grand caravan with the 3.3 L. 162k miles. Presently, when cold it'll start ok, sometimes stalling immediately once (reving it gently prevents the stall) but then it will idle nicely to seemingly to warm up some. However, when I put it in gear or switch gears, or stop within the first couple minutes, It'll stall. Doesn't rumble or shake, just cuts out quietly. Once I get out on the road after a couple miles and warmed up it's a non issue the rest of the day. It idles quietly and at steady rpm. And this little episode doesn't happen for every start. Maybe one out of 4. But it does not throw a light and there is no history of one.
Vacuum leak doesn't seem likely because it idles nice and steady otherwise. No noticeable difference in power or fuel consumption. I'm leaning toward An EGR valve, but the van doesn't throw a light so it's weird. So before I start buying unreturnable computer parts I thought I'd see what you all thought.
Anyhow, Thanks for any advice.
Pertinent maintenance:
Spark plugs and air filter- 100 mi ago
Ignition coil -6-000 ago
Fuel pump assembly and fuel filter -12-000 ago
Spark plug wires 30-000 ago
Vacuum leak doesn't seem likely because it idles nice and steady otherwise. No noticeable difference in power or fuel consumption. I'm leaning toward An EGR valve, but the van doesn't throw a light so it's weird. So before I start buying unreturnable computer parts I thought I'd see what you all thought.
Anyhow, Thanks for any advice.
Pertinent maintenance:
Spark plugs and air filter- 100 mi ago
Ignition coil -6-000 ago
Fuel pump assembly and fuel filter -12-000 ago
Spark plug wires 30-000 ago
#2
Remove the IAC valve (idle air control, also called idle bypass valve) and check to see if the passages in the throttle body are plugging up. Use carb cleaner to clean them and the pintle on the IAC valve.
Reinstall the valve and, if possible, watch the pintle through the inlet passage while an assistant turns the key on without cranking the engine. The pintle should extend all the way out and completely close the passage, then retract a little to allow air flow.
If it doesn’t move at all or only one direction but not the other, replace it. If it appears to be working, warm the engine just enough to get it idling on its own, then unplug the valve - the engine should die or at least stumble drastically. If it doesn’t die or only slightly stumbles, replace the valve.
If that all checks out, check for codes anyway - the CEL doesn’t have to be illuminated for codes to be stored.
Reinstall the valve and, if possible, watch the pintle through the inlet passage while an assistant turns the key on without cranking the engine. The pintle should extend all the way out and completely close the passage, then retract a little to allow air flow.
If it doesn’t move at all or only one direction but not the other, replace it. If it appears to be working, warm the engine just enough to get it idling on its own, then unplug the valve - the engine should die or at least stumble drastically. If it doesn’t die or only slightly stumbles, replace the valve.
If that all checks out, check for codes anyway - the CEL doesn’t have to be illuminated for codes to be stored.
The following 2 users liked this post by GumbyRT:
IDon'tGiveARam (07-10-2019),
smokesxt (07-12-2019)
#3