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[5th Gen : 08+]: 2012 Caravan brake fluid level sensor
Dodge CaravanThe Dodge Caravan is the best selling mini van from Dodge. How many Dodge Caravan owners here at DodgeForum.com would agree? Discuss it now!
Hi everyone, I own a 2012 Caravan and am just starting to do some of my own maintenance. This weekend I had fun changing out the front and rear brake pads and bleeding air out of the brake lines.
I also have an issue with the dashboard "BRAKE" indicator light being on even though the emergency brake is not engaged and the brake fluid level is ok. I removed the connection to the brake fluid level sensor and using a multimeter I had continuity across the sensor when the fluid level was ok. I think this should mean that this sensor is bad. Can anyone here confirm this for me?
If that is the problem, then I'll need to change the sensor. It is located within the master cylinder reservoir (see attached picture) and I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove it. Any ideas? Do I need to remove the whole reservoir?
The light will also come on when there’s a pressure difference between the primary and secondary hydraulic circuits (I think they’re split LF/RR and RF/LR) so make absolutely certain there’s no air trapped in the lines. With the engine off, pump the pedal a few times to discharge the vacuum booster. The pedal should be very stiff and only move 1-2 inches. If it feels soft or has more travel, there’s air in the lines.
When you replaced the pads, did you remove the master cylinder reservoir cap? Depressing the calipers with the cap installed can damage the pressure differential sensor and cause the light to come on.
Traditional fluid level sensors will be open when the level is up and close when the level is down, however, that’s not what Dodge uses on these vans. The sensor is a variable resistance type that’s integrated into the reservoir, so it can only be replaced by replacing the reservoir. It doesn’t work to try and jump the terminals either - at least, not without adding a load that simulates an acceptable resistance in the circuit.
You can try draining and refilling the reservoir a few times to clean it out, all the while tapping on it with a screwdriver handle to see if it gets knocked loose, but most likely you’ll have to replace the reservoir (or MC if you can’t find them separately).
Thanks for the reply GumbyRT, much appreciated! I bled the lines pretty well, so I feel pretty good about there being no air in there, and I did have reservoir cap off when I depressed the caliper pistons. Looks like I'll be changing the reservoir...
Do you have any recommendations on which way I should go? It's only about an $8 difference, so I'm thinking I'll just do whichever is easier.
Thanks!
Well I apologize for the inaccurate info in my previous post- I did some more digging after looking at the link you posted and sure enough the sensor is separate from the reservoir. I’ve seen many Dodge and Chrysler vans where that’s not the case so I made the mistake of ASSuming that’s how they all are.
The sensor has a release tab on the bottom between the reservoir and MC. Service info states the release tab can be depressed with a small hex wrench, so I’d say it’s worth it to give the sensor a try first.
It doesn’t seem to be an easy connector to find. If the wiring can’t be spliced and repaired, either going to a local salvage yard or dealer may be your only choices.
If the connector body is in good condition, the terminals can be removed from it and replaced - a dealer could supply the terminated leads, or try this website to find them -